1046 - Overview
Models starting with 1046
Click on the best match to narrow your results.
- 1046 (Type 100) Black and Decker Electric Drill (1/4 Variable Speed Reversible Holgun)
- 1046 (Type 102) Black and Decker Electric Drill (1/4 Variable Speed Reversible Holgun)
- 1046 (Type 101) Black and Decker Electric Drill (1/4 Variable Speed Reversible Holgun)
- 1046 Chapin Sprayer (Industrial Viton Cleaner Trigger Sprayer)
- 1046 Frigidaire Dishwasher (DISHWASHER)
- 1046-0 Briggs and Stratton Pressure Washer (3,500 PSI Pressure Washer)
- 1046-90 (Type 100) Black and Decker Electric Drill (Kett Power Unit 18 Gallons)
- 10460-1 General Electric Range
- 10460-2 General Electric Range
- 10460-3 General Electric Range
- 10461-1 General Electric Range
- 10461-2 General Electric Range
- 10461-3 General Electric Range
- 10462038A Frigidaire Range (Range)
- 10462137 Frigidaire Range Hood (Vent Hood)
- 10462142 Frigidaire Range Hood
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".

Range Burner Bowl 8
PartSelect #: PS244399
Manufacturer #: WB31T10015
This part is located beneath the element and catches any spills.
$20.95
In Stock

Range Burner Bowl 6
PartSelect #: PS244398
Manufacturer #: WB31T10014
This burner bowl is also known as a burner drip bowl or burner drip pan, and is designed for use with your cooktop or range. It is black in color and is approximately 6 inches in diameter. It can be f...
$16.95
In Stock

Light Bulb (40W)
PartSelect #: PS217532
Manufacturer #: 40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
$19.10
In Stock

Range Handle End Cap
PartSelect #: PS228368
Manufacturer #: WB07K10043
This white end cap is sold individually. One cap is required for each end of the oven door handle.
$49.95
In Stock

Main Terminal Block Kit
PartSelect #: PS471605
Manufacturer #: 5304409888
Terminal block kits are also known as terminal boards, or terminal strips, and they are found in a wide variety of household appliances. Most often in ranges, wall ovens, and dryers. This kit attaches...
$35.95
In Stock

Oven Sensor
PartSelect #: PS236043
Manufacturer #: WB21X5301
It is possible that your oven is cold because of a fault in the temperature sensor. The temperature sensor regulates oven temperature in modern ranges, like a thermostat. It is on the back wall near t...
$37.95
In Stock

Brush and Lead Assembly. (Sold Individually)
PartSelect #: PS10165971
Manufacturer #: 143803-00
No Longer Available

Element Grommet
PartSelect #: PS451462
Manufacturer #: 5300806833
This grommet is used in a number of household appliances. Most often it is used in the dishwasher as part of the assembly that mounts and holds the heating element in place. This replacement part is m...
$6.95
Special Order
Exact Part matches for your search term
[Viewing 2 of 2]
DISCONTINUED
This part number matches the current model number 1046
PartSelect #: PS9354505
Manufacturer #: 1046
No Longer Available

Bearing
This part number matches the current model number 1046
PartSelect #: PS11933938
Manufacturer #: 1046
No Longer Available
Common Symptoms of models starting with 1046
[Viewing 7 of 7]Little to no heat when baking
Fixed by
these parts
these parts



Show All
Leaking
Fixed by
these parts
these parts


Show All
Will Not Start
Fixed by
these parts
these parts


Show All
Oven is too hot
Fixed by
these parts
these parts


Show All
Oven not heating evenly
Fixed by
these parts
these parts



Show All
Element will not heat
Fixed by
these parts
these parts



Show All
Little to no heat when broiling
Fixed by
these parts
these parts

Show All
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Oven tempature was approximately 150 degrees to low
This repair is EASY if you know how to use an ohm meter. If not, seek help for this step.
SYMPTOM:
The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was ... Read more about 150 degrees to low.
FAILURE POINTS:
There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.
REPAIR:
As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!
Pull oven from the wall:
- Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position.
- Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off)
- Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling
- The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.
As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed,
- Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws)
- Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit)
- Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board).
- Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.
Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY...
- 1.02K ohms in ice water
- 1.09K ohms at room temperature
- 1.36K ohms in boiling water.
If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.
If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board.
- Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant.
- Carefully remove the wires one at a time
- VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board.
-- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector.
- Remove the controller board (4 screws)
- Install new controller board (4 screws)
- VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side.
-- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then,
-- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then
-- Press down on the connector locking tabs.
- Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board.
-- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter.
- Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires.
- Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.)
- Re-install top cover.
- Re-install service connect cover.
You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet,
- Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place.
- Flip power breaker to "On".
- Test that oven gets to the desired temp.
SYMPTOM:
The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was ... Read more about 150 degrees to low.
FAILURE POINTS:
There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.
REPAIR:
As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!
Pull oven from the wall:
- Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position.
- Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off)
- Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling
- The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.
As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed,
- Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws)
- Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit)
- Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board).
- Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.
Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY...
- 1.02K ohms in ice water
- 1.09K ohms at room temperature
- 1.36K ohms in boiling water.
If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.
If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board.
- Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant.
- Carefully remove the wires one at a time
- VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board.
-- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector.
- Remove the controller board (4 screws)
- Install new controller board (4 screws)
- VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side.
-- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then,
-- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then
-- Press down on the connector locking tabs.
- Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board.
-- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter.
- Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires.
- Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.)
- Re-install top cover.
- Re-install service connect cover.
You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet,
- Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place.
- Flip power breaker to "On".
- Test that oven gets to the desired temp.
Read less
Parts Used:
-
James from Austin, TX
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
222 of 261 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Cord was not tightened enough by delivery crew.
PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools neede
... Read more
d are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.
Read less
Parts Used:
-
Timothy from Spring Valley, AL
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
104 of 165 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Oven would not heat to the correct temperature
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires
Parts Used:
-
Michael from Lawrenceville, GA
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
40 of 63 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!