110-6515 Toro Engine - Overview
Sections of the 110-6515
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Aluminum Push Rod
PartSelect #: PS9073139
Manufacturer #: 690982
This is a replacement push rod for your lawn tractor engine. It is made of aluminum and is the push rod used for the exhaust valve. Occasionally, the push rod in your engine can become damaged, and wi...
No Longer Available

Engine Oil Seal
PartSelect #: PS9151828
Manufacturer #: 795387
This OEM Seal-Oil (PTO Side), also called the Oil Seal, is a Black, Nitrile Rubber, 2/14 O.D., individually sold part which is installed using a Seal Puller. Customers rate the installation difficulty...
$7.88
In Stock

Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
PartSelect #: PS9067184
Manufacturer #: 693997
This is a replacement cylinder head gasket for your small engine. The gasket is approximately 5 inches in length and 5 inches in width at its longest and widest points. The gasket creates a seal, and ...
$26.91
In Stock

Lawn Mower Crankcase Gasket w/Bolts
PartSelect #: PS11829358
Manufacturer #: 594195
This genuine crankcase gasket is used on small lawn and garden engines. Its purpose is to make an air tight seal so that no air/oil leakage occurs. Over time this gasket will deteriorate and will need...
$41.86
In Stock

Engine Governor Gear
PartSelect #: PS9151758
Manufacturer #: 793338
Ensure smooth and balanced operation of your Briggs and Stratton engine with this exceptional Gear Governor. It's intricately designed to maintain control over the speed of the engine, contributing to...
$30.58
Special Order

Engine Ignition Module
PartSelect #: PS9983828
Manufacturer #: 592846
On outdoor power equipment, the magneto generates electricity by using magnets in the fly wheel to produce pulses of high voltage to power the spark plugs. Other parts of the magneto include the ignit...
$62.48
In Stock

Engine Starter Motor
PartSelect #: PS9138250
Manufacturer #: 795121
This starter motor is for lawn and garden equipment engines.
Starter motor spins the flywheel to start the engine.
Wear work gloves to protect your hands when installing this part.
$143.85
In Stock
Questions And Answers for 110-6515
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
governor not working
Had to pull the engine off the rider mower. Drained the oil took shield off the flywheel. Set it upside down on a 5 gal bucket. Took a 7/16 hand wrench to remove governor lever from bottom of engine. Left it in its location. Pulled 10 1/2 " bolts. Split engine case. Found the old governor had broke into pieces. Had to use a magnet t
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o remove all the pieces. Removed the small clip and removed gear. Lubed shaft slid new on put new clip on. Lined governor weights with center piece tapped it in place very lightly. Cleaned gasket flanges pulled the shaft seal. Used the old seal as a seal driver. When putting the cover back on make sure the seal dont roll out. Take a mini screwdriver and tuck it in around shaft. Put bolts back in and tighten like instructions
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Parts Used:
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rodney from MUSCATINE, IA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
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Bad governor
Look on YouTube for video's on how to replace a Briggs governor. There are several there. My favorite, with best explanation, is, "Easily Replace Briggs Governor Gear (V-Twin Intek Engine) with Taryl". https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wn3eanGxSEA&t=152s.
Taryl (probably not his real name) does a very good job of showing step-by- ... Read more step the whole procedure, along with some additional hints/tricks/techniques of value.
Not including oil and filter, I spent less than $50 for a new governor, gasket, and drive shaft seal. That's all that is really necessary to replace is those three parts. That is, unless pieces of the old governor tore up a gear, valve, or something else. Inspect everything! {I was lucky and only the governor was destroyed}
One word of note. Be sure to clean out all of the debris from the blown governor. Be sure to remove the spark plugs and carefully rotate the drive shaft while looking for nooks-and-crannies where debris can hide. I tried to use a magnet to help, but it didn't help much, even though the block is aluminum.
Good luck.
Taryl (probably not his real name) does a very good job of showing step-by- ... Read more step the whole procedure, along with some additional hints/tricks/techniques of value.
Not including oil and filter, I spent less than $50 for a new governor, gasket, and drive shaft seal. That's all that is really necessary to replace is those three parts. That is, unless pieces of the old governor tore up a gear, valve, or something else. Inspect everything! {I was lucky and only the governor was destroyed}
One word of note. Be sure to clean out all of the debris from the blown governor. Be sure to remove the spark plugs and carefully rotate the drive shaft while looking for nooks-and-crannies where debris can hide. I tried to use a magnet to help, but it didn't help much, even though the block is aluminum.
Good luck.
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Parts Used:
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John from BROOKVILLE, IN
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set, Wrench set
8 of 15 people
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Pretty severe leak coming from the front of the John Deere engine
I already had the engine off cuz I was doing a tractor swap so I simply separated the crankcase which was very easy kept things clean and carefully reassembled worked great
Parts Used:
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Michael from CALAIS, ME
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Socket set
3 of 3 people
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