2550T Chainsaw - Overview
Models starting with 2550T
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Trimmer Fuel Filter
PartSelect #: PS9285148
Manufacturer #: 530095646
This Genuine OEM fuel filter is designed to maintain the performance and longevity of your equipment by preventing dirt and debris from entering the carburetor. Located inside the fuel tank, this esse...
$5.95
In Stock

Chainsaw Fuel Line
PartSelect #: PS9472280
Manufacturer #: 530069247
This is the replacement fuel line 25 Inch for several OPE products that use small engines. The fuel line carries fuel from the tank to the carburetor. Over time, the fuel line can become badly clogged...
$9.93
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Chainsaw Purge Line
PartSelect #: PS9472264
Manufacturer #: 530069216
This part is the replacement tank/purge line for your outdoor power equipment. It is made of clear plastic and is sold individually. The tank/purge line returns excess fuel from the carburetor to the ...
$8.98
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Chainsaw Purge Bulb Kit
PartSelect #: PS9472698
Manufacturer #: 530071835
This primer bulb, also referred to as a purge bulb, is in the fuel system of handheld outdoor power equipment. Located on or near the carburetor, it assists in drawing fuel into the carburetor when yo...
$12.43
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Spark Plug
PartSelect #: PS9484192
Manufacturer #: 952030150
This genuine Spark Plug, RCJ8Y, is sold individually, comprised of steel and ceramic, and is white and silver in color. The function of the spark plug is to ignite a mixture of air and fuel in the com...
$5.71
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Chainsaw Foam Air Filter
PartSelect #: PS9470926
Manufacturer #: 530037793
This air filter is a genuine OEM part that is often used within chainsaws and is compatible with several different models. Sold as an individual part, this filter is solely the foam filter, and does n...
$6.89
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Chainsaw Fuel Cap Assembly
PartSelect #: PS9982262
Manufacturer #: 580940901
This part is the replacement fuel cap assembly for your chainsaw. It is made of black plastic and is sold individually. The fuel cap prevents fuel from spilling out of the chainsaw and prevents debris...
$8.72
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Chainsaw Bar Adjustment Kit
PartSelect #: PS9472355
Manufacturer #: 530069611
This Chain Bar Adjuster kit is a kit which contains all necessary hardware for adjusting a chain bar on a chain saw. Installation is rated as "Easy" and requires a screwdriver, wrench set and socket s...
$12.59
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Chainsaw Mounting Bar Nut
PartSelect #: PS9469166
Manufacturer #: 530015917
The OEM Mounting Bar Nut is a nut used to install a mounting bar to your machine. Installation requires a wrench set and socket set, and is rated as "Easy". This nut attaches to the chainbar studs.
$5.95
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Chainsaw Bar Adjuster Pin
PartSelect #: PS9469135
Manufacturer #: 530015826
This Bar Pin Adjuster is an OEM part used to adjust the tension on the bar, which loosens or tightens the chain. It attaches to the slot in the bar, and the chainsaw bar adjusting screw. Installation ...
$6.22
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Common Symptoms of models starting with 2550T
[Viewing 2 of 2]Will Not Start
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Engine stops after a few seconds or minutes
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Both the Fuel line and the Engine fuel line, where dry rotted.
1) While still attached to the fuel tank, I first sized up the old fuel lines with the newer fuel lines.
2) With a pair of needle nose players, I then removed the old dry rotted fuel ?? lines, from the fuel tank.
3) I cleaned the fuel tank and around the carburetor area, to insure that there was no debris, that could possibly fa ... Read more ll into the path of the new fuel lines installation.
4) I then installed the smaller one of the fuel lines, so that it would be out of the way, of the larger fuel line. I Pulled the fuel line through the smaller hole in the fuel tank, with needle nose players. I pulled the smaller fuel line out through the fuel tank filler hole, attached the fuel filter to the smaller fuel line. I Made sure that the fuel filter was extended to the furthest end of the fuel tank bottom. Six inches in all. I then attached the smaller fuel line to the carburetor.
5) I Installed the larger fuel line, followed the same procedures as the smaller fuel line.
6) Both fuel lines where cut on an angle for easy installation. No lubricant was necessary.
7) I filled up the fuel tank with fresh fuel and oil, new air filter and spark plug. It started on the first pull. Amazing.
2) With a pair of needle nose players, I then removed the old dry rotted fuel ?? lines, from the fuel tank.
3) I cleaned the fuel tank and around the carburetor area, to insure that there was no debris, that could possibly fa ... Read more ll into the path of the new fuel lines installation.
4) I then installed the smaller one of the fuel lines, so that it would be out of the way, of the larger fuel line. I Pulled the fuel line through the smaller hole in the fuel tank, with needle nose players. I pulled the smaller fuel line out through the fuel tank filler hole, attached the fuel filter to the smaller fuel line. I Made sure that the fuel filter was extended to the furthest end of the fuel tank bottom. Six inches in all. I then attached the smaller fuel line to the carburetor.
5) I Installed the larger fuel line, followed the same procedures as the smaller fuel line.
6) Both fuel lines where cut on an angle for easy installation. No lubricant was necessary.
7) I filled up the fuel tank with fresh fuel and oil, new air filter and spark plug. It started on the first pull. Amazing.
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Parts Used:
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Victor from SCOTTSVILLE, KY
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Socket set
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Broken piston ring and tune up
Straight forward, trick for the piston ring was to cut a soda can to make a sleeve that could be wrapped around the piston ring. A bit of duct tape with a tab held it shut until the piston was in position then it was easily removed as the piston was slid in.
Parts Used:
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Wade from HENDERSONVLLE, NC
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Socket set
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My neighbor brought the saw to me. It was locked up
He didn't want to spend alot of money on it. So I got the jug (Head) off and sanded it and the piston down while I waited on the new piston ring to get here. I found that it was easier putting the new ring in and the piston back into the jug (Head) was to go ahead and take the piston out so you could turn the jug (Head) upside down and it
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slid right in. It didn't take no time at all. And it now runs as good as new
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Parts Used:
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Marvin from KIRBYVILLE, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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