31622 LG - Instructions
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
It did not drain water, cycle stops at rinse+spin.
1-Take water off manually. 2- Take machine to back yard. 3- lay machine 45 degrees. 4- Located water bump, (rear left side). 5-removed drain black hoses with hand. 6-removed 3 screws from bump frame. 7-Taker off all unit and marked down cable position at plug. 8- installed new pump. 9- Reverse all steps. Note: I did not use new cable supplied with the new bump, I did not want to mess around on mother board connections, I kept old wire harness which are only two cables blue and gray. It took me less than 30 minutes.
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Jesus from El Paso, TX
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Socket set, Wrench set
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Water continued leaking into washer after the end of cycle through the water inlet valve.
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Flora from MIAMI, FL
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
12 of 17 people
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Water overflow in washer basin
I diagnosed by running a full wash. I watched it and when the water should have stopped it kept running. I unplugged the washer from the power and the water kept running. This told me the inlet valve was the issue and not an electronic issue. I stopped the water by closing the water valve manually. Replacing the inlet valve was very easy. Hardest part is moving the washer out of the laundry room. The videos online show very simple steps. Maybe 8 screws to remove and a couple of hoses and five electronic connectors. Take a photo of connectors before removing them to ensure you reconnect properly.
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Ed from LAKE WORTH, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
10 of 14 people
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Washer was slowing filling with water when turned off.
The problem was the valve suppling water to the bleach dispenser was not closing completely. This also caused some water leaking towards
the front of the washer. Replacing the entire valve assembly was very
easy. Unplug the washer, turn off the water, remove the 2 screws that attach the control panel, disconnect the water supplies, unplug the 5 solenoids, remove the hose clamps from the 2 hoses, remove the 3
screws that attach the valve assembly and remove it. Reassemble in reverse order, I did find that applying some water based personal lubricant to the 3 high pressure seals made assembly much easier.
the front of the washer. Replacing the entire valve assembly was very
easy. Unplug the washer, turn off the water, remove the 2 screws that attach the control panel, disconnect the water supplies, unplug the 5 solenoids, remove the hose clamps from the 2 hoses, remove the 3
screws that attach the valve assembly and remove it. Reassemble in reverse order, I did find that applying some water based personal lubricant to the 3 high pressure seals made assembly much easier.
Parts Used:
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Michael from La Honda, CA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
8 of 11 people
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Direct drive shaft broke right under the agitator plate.
Removed the inner tub laid the washer on its side with a blanket under it and Removed the assembly then the shaft assembly.
Installed the new assembly and re assembled the rest of the washer (top and bottom) and plugged it in. Works great. TIP: you will need a big socket set for the tub retaining nut.
Installed the new assembly and re assembled the rest of the washer (top and bottom) and plugged it in. Works great. TIP: you will need a big socket set for the tub retaining nut.
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EDWIN from FELTON, DE
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
6 of 7 people
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Top loading washing machine displayed "tE" error
Disconnect machine from power source. Then, disconnect any tubes from the back side (make sure you close any water valves before doing so). Then, lay the machine on its back to access the bottom of the machine. Then, locate the thermistor and replace it with the new one (the thermistor will have two screws holding it in place, simply remove the screws and replace the thermistor, then screw it back in). After the new part is installed, stand the machine back up and make sure to connect any tubing to its proper place. Done.
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Angelica from HOUSTON, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Agitator was free spinning
Removed the center cover cap carefully on top of the agitator with a small screw driver. There are 3 (on mine) little slots around the edge of the bottom of the cap where it meets the agitator. Insert the small flat blade screwdriver and gently twist at each one till the cap pops loose and comes off.
There was a 10MM bolt under the cap on mine that you need to remove. I used an cordless impact driver but you could use a socket wrench as well. Remove the bolt and the agitator comes off. May take a little wiggling or it may come right off.
The teeth on the agitator were wore all the way down and gone on mine so it came off easy and this was the issue I had why it was spinning freely. I took the small flat blade screwdriver and used the edge and corner of the blade to clean the teeth on the shaft where the agitator attaches and wiped it down before installing the new part as there was quite a bit of metal shavings from the damaged part.
I just reversed the order of removal to install the new part. Took about 15 min. I ran a rinse and spin cycle to remove any additional metal shavings and to check to see if it all worked properly. THATS IT! TOO EASY!
There was a 10MM bolt under the cap on mine that you need to remove. I used an cordless impact driver but you could use a socket wrench as well. Remove the bolt and the agitator comes off. May take a little wiggling or it may come right off.
The teeth on the agitator were wore all the way down and gone on mine so it came off easy and this was the issue I had why it was spinning freely. I took the small flat blade screwdriver and used the edge and corner of the blade to clean the teeth on the shaft where the agitator attaches and wiped it down before installing the new part as there was quite a bit of metal shavings from the damaged part.
I just reversed the order of removal to install the new part. Took about 15 min. I ran a rinse and spin cycle to remove any additional metal shavings and to check to see if it all worked properly. THATS IT! TOO EASY!
Parts Used:
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Joel from JASPER, MO
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
7 of 11 people
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Washer Hot water valve did not shut off ever
After getting the model info from the back of the washer control panel, I searched Partselect for the water valve part. Easy process, It was here in 2 days. Unplug the machine, I took 2 screws out of the back of the control console and tipped it forward to reveal the valve assy. Turn off the water at the wall and disconnect the hot and cold lines from the washer . I removed the 3 screws holding the valve assy to the deck and with pliers disconnected the 2 clamped rubber lines and then with just finger pressure wiggled the valve from the remaining pipe connections. I swapped the 5 wire connectors to the new valve and wiggled it back into place. Clamped the 2 rubber lines again. and then connected the water inlet hoses to the new valve. Closed it up and called the laundry lady ( sorry honey) 30 minutes to Household harmony again!!
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Scott from SANTA CLARITA, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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Washer made a clicking sound during agitation
Move the washer to the garage and laid it on its side. Remove the large nut from the center shaft using a crescent wrench. Tap the wrench with a hammer until the nut comes loose. Next you'll need a puller to remove the part that was secured by the nut. Mine would not come off by hand. Next remove the three screws securing the white plastic components to the bottom of the washer. Remove the two plastic pieces and throw them in the trash because I'm sure they're garbage. Reverse the process for installation and reinstall the washer. Put some clothes in for the test wash and the washer should be silent. Two different appliance repair folks gave me estimates that were higher than the cost of replacement. I got out from under this fix for around a hundred bucks. It was worth every minute of my time. Good luck.
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William from ORLANDO, FL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Wrench (Adjustable)
5 of 5 people
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The bolt in pulsator kept coming out during the wash
I found the pulsator just spun freely, I determined the hole on underside should ribbed to align with the ribbed shaft. But it was wore away. I purchased the new part and replacement was simple. It slide right on and I replaced the bolt. Pulsator works great, washing again.
Parts Used:
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Deresa from BOLINGBROOK, IL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Socket set
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Low water flow into washer
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Alexander from SALISBURY MLS, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Water leaking into drum
Figured out how to remove the top door and the top panel that covered the solenoid bank. That was the hardest part. Swapping out the solenoid bank and the connector was easy. No more water leaking.
Parts Used:
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Richard from RED LION, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
4 of 5 people
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The old water assembly valve split on the bottom and started leaking.
After unplugging the washer I cut the water off. I took the water hoses off, then the back top panel using a phillips head screw driver. I then used a pair of pliers to take off the two hoses and clamps. I unplugged the electric connection on each solenoid, took out 5 screws replaced the part and did everything in reverse order. Problem solved. Thanks for the fast service on my order.
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Jerry from CARYVILLE, TN
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
4 of 6 people
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Washer was noisy, made noise when agitating and spinning.
I had a hard time removing the agitator, had to get thin prybar to get a hold of washplate. After I removed washplate, I found that the shaft that the washplate attaches to was actually worn out. What used to be a spline was smooth. So I ordered a new clutch assembly. There are a lot of bolts that hold the clutch assembly on to the basket. There are a lot of videos on Utube that will walk you through step by step. The only problem I encountered with this was removing the nut that holds the basket to the tub. One video said it was reverse thread, which it wasn’t. You can check the thread on new clutch assembly to see which way is correct. After I put back together. Works like new.
Parts Used:
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Paul from NANTICOKE, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
5 of 10 people
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leg broke off inside housing
raised the front of washer by hand (literally) and placed two 2x4 blocks under front lip for support. reached up inside washer cabinet and unscrewed the broken leg piece upwards into the cabinet. this was the only way I could get the broken piece out without some specialized tool to reach it from the underside. replacement with the new leg was a breeze.
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thomas m from CARMICHAEL, CA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
5 of 10 people
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