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Model numbers can be made up of numbers (1005400, for example) or a combination of letters and numbers (LAT1000AAE). The model number will most likely appear on either a paper sticker or a metal plate. Your appliance's model number tag may look similar to the sample model number tags shown here (model number highlighted in yellow):
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This 10 by 5 inch ice maker (Electromechanical Icemaker Kit, Ice Maker Assembly) produces ice. This particular model will produce seven crescent shaped cubes every cycle. It is constructed of plastic ...
$189.26
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives in 2-3 business days!
This “Dispenser Door Assembly” (Door Recess Assembly, Ice Door Assembly, Dispenser Door, Refrigerator Dispenser Ice Chute Door Kit, Dispenser Door Flap, Ice Chute Door, Flapper) keeps the room air fro...
$22.89
In Stock
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This valve comes with 1/4" compression inlet.
NOTE: This part comes with new quick connections. To install - cut retaining nuts off of existing plastic water lines and gently push them into new valv...
$60.17
In Stock
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This evaporator fan motor grommet, or condenser fan grommet is built for refrigerators. It provides a cushion between the fan motor and the motor mounting bracket. It is made or round, black plastic a...
$13.91
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This part is the replacement water line for your refrigerator. It is a long plastic tube, which is 5/16 of an inch in diameter. If your refrigerator is leaking, or will not dispense water or ice, you ...
$35.85
In Stock
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This in-refrigerator dispenser water reservoir tank comes with tubing. This tank stores water until the water actuator is activated and water is requested.
$111.17
In Stock
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This is a quarter tubing nut and is sold individually. The tubing nut works in conjunction with your refrigerator/freezer and is made entirely of plastic. The function of this part is to connect the l...
$13.91
In Stock
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Questions And Answers for 36358092891
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1. Turn off water supply, and electrical ( unplug it) to fridge. 2. Remove water line to valve. Watch for water to pour out of the line. Have a towel handy. 3. Remove the cardboard cover on the bottom of the fridge. 4. Remove the screws that hold the valve in place. 5. Remove the valve, be careful the waterlines ar
... Read moree still attached. 6. Place a towel under valve to catch any water that leaks out from water lines. 7. Remove electrical lines, make sure to mark which went where. One is for the ice, and one is for the water. Make sure the power is off, there is 120 volts present at those connections. - now my waterlines attached using a compression type fitting. The new valve I got used just a push in type of attachment. But, easy enough I just removed the pieces for the compression and the waterlines pushed right in and worked fine. - the mounting harness for the valve was alittle different but the parts I need were in the right location and she fit in fine. 8. Attach water lines. They are different sizes so you can't get those mixed up. 9. Attach electrical lines. - the new valve came with adaptors for my electrical connection. Just snapped them on and kept on going. 10. turn on watersupply for fridge. Plug it back in. 11. Test for leaks, and proper operation. ie. When you push the water does the water valve open? 12. Unplug fridge 13. Now is a good time to clean out any dust or dirt that has accumallated in under around your fridge. 14. reassemble, valve, then cover. move fridge back into place. 15. Plug fridge back in. 16. Take a clean glass. 17. Fill with water from the front. 18. Take full glass of water and go watch tv. You've earned it, and saved yourself probably $100.00 in labor costs. Good Job.
I first shut off water flow to the fridge. Examination of the package (which was not exact in appearance to the original) demonstrated that the electrical connectors were well-insulated so I arrogantly and successfully proceded without disconnecting the power. My fridge is old enough that the model doesn't appear exactly on anyone's list
... Read more so I wasn't alarmed that it took an extra 10 minutes or so to noodle out how to adapt the slightly different inlet cowling and electrical cord with extension, but the device is pretty simple. Soon I loosened the two mounting screws with a nut driver, used a screwdriver to pry away the plastic snap-in housing over the electrical socket on the fridge inner wall and pulled away the electrical plug. The original water fill tube remained in its cavity, ready for re-use. The new unit's mounting points matched the original screw locations perfectly, as did the fill cowling - which on the replacement icemaker has two possible attachment points. The new unit's electrical connector required an extension pigtail to adapt to my socket, but it was included in the package. The extra cable posed a minor cosmetic issue because it hangs in the collection basket a bit, but that will soon be remedied with a tie wrap. After the water was restored and an anxious wait of a few hours, we had well-formed ice cubes that weren't all stuck together and the stalactites haven't reappeared.
I unplugged the electrical connection. Then I removed the 2 screws holding the icemaker in place. I lifted out the old icemaker unit and put the new one in place. Then put the 2 screws back in and plugged in the new unit.
The icemaker started making ice very soon after turning the unit on.
