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Model numbers can be made up of numbers (1005400, for example) or a combination of letters and numbers (LAT1000AAE). The model number will most likely appear on either a paper sticker or a metal plate. Your appliance's model number tag may look similar to the sample model number tags shown here (model number highlighted in yellow):
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This clip ensures that the knob is securely fastened to the control shaft, allowing you to properly select the correct time and setting for your dryer. If your dryer will not start or shut off, the ti...
The agitator coupler connects the agitator to the agitator shaft. Common symptoms of a damaged coupler include: a grinding sound during the wash cycle, the washer refusing to agitate or spin, or the w...
$41.95
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The drain hose is black in color and made of flexible material. This is a part for your top-load washer. The hose measures 57 inches long. This part moves the water out of the washer and into the drai...
$30.95
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The timer knob clip on your washing machine connects the timer knob to the control panel. If your timer knob is damaged or will not stay in place, you may need to replace the clip. If the timer does n...
$13.95
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This pump helps expel water from the washing machine and is activated after the spin speed is maintained for a specific period of time. If you notice that your washing machine will not drain, there is...
$58.36
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The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. Its the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft. If your washer is leaking during the fill cycle, or at ...
$18.95
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This V-shaped drive belt is 29 1/2 inches long x 1/2-inch-wide, and fits both front-load and top-load washing machines. When belts are worn or frayed, they are known to make noise. If you have a top-l...
$13.95
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This drain hose support clip is a piece for your washer. The purpose of the drain hose support clip is to hold the drain hose in place by attaching to a cabinet. This piece is off-white and is roughly...
$13.95
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This water inlet valve attaches the water lines to the back of your appliance. The attaching solenoids on the valve open and close according to the desired temperature, or amount of water needed.
$70.24
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This is a tub bearing and it is meant to work in conjunction with your washing machine. The purpose of this part is to aid in keeping the inner tub of your washing machine spinning smoothly during a w...
$13.95
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This split ring is supplied by the original equipment manufacturer, and it is designed to secure the tub bearing in washing machines. It is a circular metal ring, with an outer diameter of 2 inches. T...
This part is the hub nut, or lock down nut for your washing machine. It is designed to hold the inner tub on to the transmission. If your hub nut is stripped or damaged, it may need to be replaced. T...
$22.95
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Questions And Answers for 56021A0WW
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1. Drained the wash tub by taking the drain hose from the back of the washing machine and dropping it below the tub - water flowed out of hose a lot easier than trying to suck water out of tub using a pump (tried this on the first time I tried to fix washer). (Washing machine on 2nd floor of house and didn't want water running on floor)<
... Read morebr />2. Removed the 2 bolts holding the Pump/Motor assembly to the machine. 3. Removed both hose clamps on the Pump/Motor assembly and removed Pump. 4. Attached the new drain inlet hose to the pump and then to the tub with the original hose clamps. 5. Attached the drain hose to the pump and then plugged in the 2 wires for the pump. 6. Plugged in the washing machine and everything worked.
NOTES: 1. Hardest part was working with hose clamps (spring type clamps) in the tight space under the machine. 2. Easier to fix since I pulled machine apart a few days before - removing the clog in the pump/motor assembly only to get everything back together to find out that the motor was dead. Still well worth the time and effort due to not having to go out and buy a new Machine...
I placed both hands under the agitator 180 degrees apart, gave a quick jerk, and seperated the agitator from the coupling. With the agitator removed, use a socket and ratchet to remove the bolt holding the coupling to the spline. Remove the old coupling and slide the new one over the spline. Lightly tap on the coupling if necessary. I
... Read morensert the bolt with the ratchet and slide the agitator back over the coupling and you are done.
I followed the instructions in the GE Consumer Service Training Technician Manual Pub. No. 31-10008.
I also power washed the basket and tub before reassembly.
The tub seal comes with the transmission and brake assembly so it's not necessary to order another seal.
The agitator coupling kit contai
... Read morens a redesigned coupler and longer screw with new o-ring.
I bought the hub nut, split ring, tub bearing, agitator coupling kit and washer hub because these are all the parts that go on the transmission shaft. I felt it was best to spend a few dollars more to replace every part involved with the spin and agitation of the washer.
I used the channel lock and a hammer with a shortened handle to remove and replace the hub nut. Use caution as the nut is aluminum.
