79575546400 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

Remove water filter and water filter holder. Removed cover on back of frig. Removed clip where water line connects to back of water filter. Took half inch wrench pushed in on water line lock to release line. Repeat at other end. Reverse steps to put on new line. Easy repair.

This refrigerator/freezer problem had been escalating for almost a year, requiring me to frequently knock the ice buildup free with a rubber mallet. I finally decided to try to identify the problem by removing the freezer door and all of the shelves and shelf tracks (easily removed with only a phillips screwdriver). Then I removed the back plastic panel to expose the cooling coils, which were partially encased in ice. I deduced that the evaporator fan motor was failing, which blows air over the freezer cooling coils and forces the cool air up into the upper refrigerator section (which was not staying cold). I then found and ordered the fan motor from part select. Their search function and exploded drawing schematics made it easy to identify the part and part number. It seems the original part number had been superceded with a new number, which I ordered. Once it arrived after about a week, I transferred the fan blades from the old motor to the new fan motor, and after completely drying out the freezer compartment, I reinstalled all of the parts and plugged in the unit and waited. By the next day, the refrigerator was operating at peak efficiency, and the ice buildup in the freezer has not returned. I was very close to scrapping the entire refrigerator as junk, but with a little diagnostic effort and about $110 for the new motor, I have a fully functioning refrigerator again. Thanks to Part Select for a great experience.

Video makes it look easy. Kenmore refrigerator does not have "groove" along the right hand side of switch that allows for pushing down on release. Used a thin screwdriver to get under to push while holding switch edge with pliers. Kept slipping. Tape sides to avoid scratching inside of refrigerator.

Turn off power, remove upper and lower drawers (may need to open upper refrigerator doors to remove large freezer bin,) remove drawer supports (upper and lower), remove rear freezer panel (trick is to loosen 4 screws on fan bumpout to get the panel to come free from the freezer side wall), test thermistor with multimeter (should have continuity or near zero resistance across 2 orange fuse wires) before cutting zip ties, cut zip ties holding Thermistor in place, remove old Thermistor, install new Thermistor, install new zip ties, replace rear freezer panel, install upper and lower drawer supports, install drawers, turn on power, should be fixed if error code doesn't return after 6 hours.

Ordered a new tank assembly, but the new part also leaked because it had a hole in it. Ordered another that worked fine. Used a flat head screwdriver to remove the clips covering the screw holes to the tank assembly cover, then a phillips to remove the cover screws and the screws retaining the tank. Did not use the tubing that came with the new tank (removed it by taking out the neck clip then simultaneously pushing back on the neck piece while pulling out the hose). Used this same procedure to remove the old tank at both positions. Installed the new tank, replaced the clips, pressurized/tested the system and put the cover back on. Overall less than a 5 minute job...except for the extra week waiting for a good part.

Shut off water supply. Disconnect main supply line. Remove rear lower panel on back of refrigerator. Remove all tubing clamps on back. Disconnect leaking tubing from water supply valve. Remove water filter and unscrew/remove water filter housing. Replace tubing - connect to water filter housing then to water supply valve. Reconnect filter housing and filter. Reinstall lower panel, then main water supply line, then all tubing clamps. Turn water back on and check for leaks after discarding several glasses of water to fill filter. Job complete!

The replacement was the exact size,easy installation.

Pretty simple fix.

1) Removed the screws from lower back plate
2) Removed the screws holding the plastic water lines in place (little plastic brackets - several of them)
3) Take a picture of how the tubing and what hose goes into what part - the 5/16" hose can go into 2 different spots - I didn't do this and I had to fix this
4) Pull out the hose "tabs" that lock the clamp into place (several)
5) Push in new hose
6) Put in clamp
7) I had to remove the filter on the inside of the fridge. Remove the filter, there is one screw that comes out, then you will have access to the hose clamps
8) Repeat for all the other hoses
9) Put the plate and brackets back into place (the picture really helps on how to orient and route the 3 different tubes
10) Test the water
11) Crack open a beer for a job well done

Super easy - take a picture! It will save you time!

As per utube

An easy way to get a refrigerator out from the wall is to use a tow strap or 1/2 to 3/4 in. rope. Throw a loop behind refer while keeping both ends in your hands. Let it settle down to the lower half of unit and pull using both hands. Comes right out.
Remove lower panel. Unscrew water valve from cabinet. Remove all tube holders Lay some rags down to catch a little water drainage.
Turn off water supply valve at wall. Unplug Power. Remove filter and filter holder. (one screw).
remove tube from valve by removing plastic C clip. Push plastic ring towards the valve and pull out tube at same time.
With the tube free, remove filter, then mount screw to remove the inside filter holder. When it is out, pull the tube doing the same process as the lower end. Pull tube out and replace with new one putting everything back in reverse order.
Before placing tube holders back on, turn on water to check for leaks.
After turning water back on and plugging in power, push refer back into place.
While I was there, I also replaced the hose from the wall to the refer.

The heavy work is moving the fridge, then take off the lower plans. Use a bowel or cup for screws and the water line connector spacers so you don't loos them.
undo connections holding water line, including the bottom brakes for the solenoid. Reuse the spring around the lower waterline to prevent external wear on the line.

NOTE: remove the waterline connector spacers and save!
NOTE: you must compress (not pull) the connect to then pull the waterline out of the connectors.
NOTE: You must also remove the water filter and housing inside the fridge but this is easy.
MOTE: Test the line for leaks by turning on the water and then using the door water. The filter will need to refill so it may take a minute before water comes up. This line only have pressure when the door water is used or the ice maker needs to make ice.


After replacing the line, test the line for leaks by using the door water so the solenoid fills the lines

After watching a few iTunes videos I was able to order the light switch from part select and within a week I had the new switch. I had a little trouble getting the switch out. I used a flat screw driver and taped around the edge to keep from damaging the wall inside. I found the clip on the right side and had to use some force to get it popped out, you may need to use pliers to disconnect the switch.

Have had the Sears repairman come to the house to replace this part in 5 minutes for +$100.. twice. When my dad's stopped working, ordered the part and replaced it myself for the cost of the part and shipping.
Use a screw driver to pry the right side of the switch and pull out. Best to watch a youtube video first. Takes about 5 minutes.

Switched the refrigerator circuit breaker to off. Put tape around the switch to prevent scratches. Wedged the putty knife into the right side of the switch and pried up.the switch and connector popped out. Removed the connector from the old switch and connected it to the socket in the new switch. Stuffed the new switch and connector back into its home. Switched on the circuit breaker. Now we have light in the refrigerator with every opening!

The refrigerator had the above code and when I check on YouTube, it explained that the defrosting was not working properly. It was taking more than 80 minutes to defrost. I ordered the Temperature Sensor first and it was not the issue. I also ordered the Defrost Temperature fuse or the Thermistor. I had to defrost the refrigerator first by using a portable heater to get it done quickly. (See Youtube on how to get to the Defrosting Unit inside the freezer). The Thermistor was the wrong part. I called the Partselect and explained that the part with the heating element is one piece. (Heating Coil Thermistor or Heating Coil). By replacing that piece solved the Error Code issue. I listened to Youtube for the instructions on how to replace the Heater Coil. So if you see the Error Code dH F, you need to replace the Heating Coil, which comes in
one piece and sits on the bottom of the Defrost Element.