Parts That Fix Whirlpool Refrigerator 7WRS25FDBF02 Fridge too warm
Fridge too warm is a commonly reported symptom for the 7WRS25FDBF02 Whirlpool Refrigerator, and we have put together a full guide
... Read more
on how to fix this. This advice is based on feedback from people who own this exact appliance. We have listed the most common parts for your 7WRS25FDBF02 Whirlpool Refrigerator that will fix Fridge too warm.
We have included repair instructions, and helpful step-by-step video tutorials. If you are experiencing this issue, not to worry, DIYers just like you have fixed this, and shared their experience to help you!
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Fridge too warm is a commonly reported symptom for the 7WRS25FDBF02 Whirlpool Refrigerator, and we have put together a full guide on how to fix this.
This advice is based on feedback from people who own this exact appliance. We have listed the most common parts for your 7WRS25FDBF02 Whirlpool Refrigerator that will fix Fridge too warm.
We have included repair instructions, and helpful step-by-step video tutorials. If you are experiencing this issue, not to worry, DIYers just like you have fixed this, and shared their experience to help you!
Fixes Symptom 54% of time
If you have ice building up in your freezer, or if your freezer is getting too warm during the defrost cycle you may need to replace the bi-metal defrost thermostat. The function of the defrost bi-metal thermostat is to clip onto the evaporator and protect your evaporator from overheating during the defrost cycle. If your refrigerator does not defrost properly you can test both the thermostat and the heater to figure out which part is at fault. For this repair, you will need a Phillips screwdriver, a 1/4 inch nut driver, a flat blade screwdriver, a pair of wire strippers, a roll of electrical tape, and a few butt splice connectors.
$
33.95
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11750673
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10225581
Replacing your Whirlpool Refrigerator Refrigerator Bimetal Defrost Thermostat
Customer Repair Stories
Auto Defrost Freezer keeps defrosting SIDE BY SIDE KITCHENAID
DISCONNECT POWER. Removed all shelves/baskets.Popped upper panel off (just clips in) Removed 6 screws in lower back panel ( 3 each side) slid panel in place but down. You can then easily see the defrost thermostat/defrost termination switch. Cut the wire connectors (pink n brown wire) stripped back wire, attached new defrost thermostat.
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Thermostat clips on. New thermostat ohm's at 5.5, old one was "open". Slid cover back up meeting the upper cover grooves. Screwed lower panel in. Put shelves etc back in. Plugged in. Turns on, put a bottle of water in freezer. Checked a while later, frozen. has been frozen for a week.
-James
-James
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James from Ringoes, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
38 of 48 people
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Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ... Read more ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket
Steps:
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ... Read more ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket
Steps:
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
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Cathy from Winter Park, FL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
159 of 185 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Fixes Symptom 12% of time
This part is located in the back of the freezer, and circulates air over the refrigerator coils. These coils will convert the heat into cool air, which is then circulated. Fan blade not included.
$
63.31
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS557957
Manufacturer Part Number 4389144
Replacing your Whirlpool Refrigerator Freezer Evaporator Fan Motor 120v 60hz
Customer Repair Stories
Excessive noise was coming from the freezer section of my side be side refrigerator
Cleaning out the freezer took the longest time. Once the freezer was clean I turned off the freezer which did not deactivate the light in the freezer. This is a tight area to work in and not having to hold a flashlight made the job much easier. I then removed the shelf slider brackets for the 3 lower pullout drawers. The next step was
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to remove the interior aluminum back panel (6 screws) which covers the evaporator motor and the coil. Before removing the 3 electric wires that are attached to the evaporator motor make sure the power is off to the motor. The removal of the motor was fairly straightforward and I would suggest removing the plastic fan blade first and then the connector wires. It helped knowing in advance that the plastic fan blade would come off with a little prying. Be careful when prying the fan off so that you don’t damage the plastic motor mount bracket. Once you have installed the motor I would suggest turning the freezer back on to make sure that the evaporator motor works before reinstalling the aluminum back panel and slider brackets.
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Jon from Houston, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
43 of 45 people
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evaporator fan stopped working
1) removed the face plate that runs 3/4 way up the back of the freezer side. a total of 8 screws. (6")
2) disconnected the three electrical connections.(30sec)
3) removed the fan of the the old evaporator fan motor (5sec)
3) removed the fan motor (1")
4) put in the new fan motor (1")
5) put on the old fan on the n ... Read more ew fan motor(5sec)
6) reconnected the three electrical connections (30sec)
7) replaced the face plate on the back of the freezer (6")
Had re-frozen meat within 1 hour.
2) disconnected the three electrical connections.(30sec)
3) removed the fan of the the old evaporator fan motor (5sec)
3) removed the fan motor (1")
4) put in the new fan motor (1")
5) put on the old fan on the n ... Read more ew fan motor(5sec)
6) reconnected the three electrical connections (30sec)
7) replaced the face plate on the back of the freezer (6")
Had re-frozen meat within 1 hour.
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Antoni from vail, AZ
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
97 of 106 people
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Fixes Symptom 11% of time
The lower door closing cam is used in refrigerator doors, it can be located on the fresh food side or the freezer side. It helps hold the door open. This cam is made out of plastic, so it might crack or wear down over time. If your door will not open and close properly you may need to replace the door closing cam. To successfully install this part, you will need a 5/16 nut driver and a small flat blade screwdriver. Before you begin, unplug your appliance and disconnect the water supply. Lubricating this part may help with installation. This replacement part is sold individually. This part will fit both the left and right side of your refrigerator door. To make the repair, remove the top hinge cover, then the top hinge support. Lift the door from the bottom support and remove the old door cams. Replace the cams, using a little lubricant if necessary, and place the door back on the lower hinge support. Replace the top hinge support and your repair is complete!
$
9.95
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11739042
Manufacturer Part Number WP2182179
Replacing your Whirlpool Refrigerator Refrigerator Lower Door Closing Cam
Customer Repair Stories
refrigerator door not working properly
Just as shown on your video.The refrigerator side was not sitting even, clunked and did not seal right. I decided to do.both sides, refrigerator and freezer while I was at it as our refrigerator is about 16 years old. Everything went in easily and saved us a lot of money. Very happy with the parts and repair video. Got the refrigerator n
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ice and cleaned out while we were at it..Us and the refrigerator are breathing easier now..Yeepppeee....
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Dennis from MORRO BAY, CA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Socket set
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Worn out door plastic cam
Replaced the door cam on bottom of fridge door. ONE THING TO UNDERSTAND- THERE ARE 2 CAMS ON THE DOOR, LOWER AND UPPER, BUT THE UPPER CAM IS NOT LISTED ON THE "DOOR HARDWARE" DRAWING, ITS LISTED ON THE MAIN BODY DRAWING! BE SURE TO GET BOTH CAMS! (PARTSELECT COULD MAKE A NOTE THAT WHEN PEOPLE LOOK UP LOWER CAM, PUT A NOTE IN THERE SAYING
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Y0U NEED UPPER TOO!)So I had to order the upper cam later and install later. BUT it is quite easy to replace, unlike the video, I only needed 1 tool! The nut driver (electric screwdriver w nut driver head). Thanks -RF
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ROGER from WAXHAW, NC
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
36 of 37 people
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Fixes Symptom 8% of time
If your refrigerator or freezer is too warm, or making noises, you may need to replace the fan blade. The fan blade attaches to the evaporator motor, which is in the freezer section, to help circulate the cold air into the refrigerator and freezer sections. The fan blade is white in color and made from plastic. This is a genuine OEM part. Please be sure to disconnect the power to your refrigerator before starting your repair.
$
26.95
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11738973
Manufacturer Part Number WP2169142
Replacing your Whirlpool Refrigerator Freezer Fan Blade
Fixes Symptom 4% of time
This part controls the functions of the refrigerator.
$
240.00
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11753802
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10366605
Customer Repair Stories
The refrigerator side of the appliance did not cool
I discovered that the freezer was not defrosting automatically and the condenser coil was freezing up blocking the flow of cold air to the refrigerator side. I first replaced the thermostat thinking that it would be an easy fix but needless to say it didn't work. My indicator that it was not a successful repair was the continuing blinking
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of the filter change light on the control panel. Ultimately I had to replace the control board assembly to solve the issue.
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juan from Weslaco, TX
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
22 of 27 people
found this instruction helpful.
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The refrigerator would not come back on after defrost.
The refrigerator would not come back on after the defrost cycle unless I smacked the housing around the controls. Since it would come back on after stricking the housing I knew it must be a sticking relay. I used the exploded drawings from Parts Select to determine how to disassemble the housing. Once the part arrived I swapped it out in
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about 10-14 minutes. The drawings made the job simple. Thanks Parts Select!!! -neal
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Neal from Orangevale, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
22 of 26 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Fixes Symptom 4% of time
This part is both the start relay and the overload. The start relay boosts the compressor, and then shuts off as soon as the motor gets up to speed and the overload provides extra protection against excessive temperatures.
$
73.28
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11749877
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10189190
Customer Repair Stories
Refrigerator not cooling, water dripping from doors
Water was dripping out of top freezer door and had water under the refridgerator. I could hear a clicking noice from bottom of refrigerator every 3-5 minutes.
After removing back panel, I noticed the fan was running and the clicking seemed to be coming from somewhere around the compressor which was warm. I noticed on the site a si ... Read more mular problem had been submitted. It said to remove the start relay and if it rattled it was bad. I removed two wires from it ( it is connected onto the side of the compressor) then took a small screw driver to pry it away from the compressor. It not only rattled but had tiny pieces falling out. I ordered the part and replaced it in less than 15 minutes total and all is well.
After removing back panel, I noticed the fan was running and the clicking seemed to be coming from somewhere around the compressor which was warm. I noticed on the site a si ... Read more mular problem had been submitted. It said to remove the start relay and if it rattled it was bad. I removed two wires from it ( it is connected onto the side of the compressor) then took a small screw driver to pry it away from the compressor. It not only rattled but had tiny pieces falling out. I ordered the part and replaced it in less than 15 minutes total and all is well.
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Darrell from Hammond, LA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
21 of 24 people
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Our Refrigerator and freezer stopped working
I had read on a fix it site that the start device for the compressor on this particular model was known to fail after 3-5 years. When we received the part it looked like something that just plugged into the compressor. My husband unscrewed the panel in the back of the fridge and saw the part on the compressor. He first removed the thre
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e wires that it was connected to, and the wires were inside a plug so all he had to do was remove the plug from the start device. He then removed the old start device from the compressor. Plugged in the wire plug into the new start device, and pushed in the new start device into the compressor. There was also another black part plugged into the old start device that he plugged inot the new start device that connected to the compressor. Our freezer and refrigerator starting working. Within a couple of hours our freezer had made ice.
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Anna from Lincoln, RI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
58 of 69 people
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Fixes Symptom 3% of time
The heater is located at the bottom of the evaporator. The defrost heater heats the evaporator in the defrost mode of operation. The thermostat must be replaced when replacing the defrost heater.
$
49.31
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11740459
Manufacturer Part Number WP2323198
Replacing your Whirlpool Refrigerator Refrigerator Heater Defrost
Customer Repair Stories
Tripping Breaker during defrost cycle
Was very easy. Watched YouTube video.
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Robert from Cibolo, TX
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Fixes Symptom 2% of time
This fan motor circulates the air through the refrigerator grille and cools the compressor and condenser coils. It also helps to evaporate extra water in the drain pan. Please note: If the original fan motor has 3 terminals please order part number W10204250, otherwise order this part (WP2188874).
$
79.20
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11739140
Manufacturer Part Number WP2188874
Replacing your Whirlpool Refrigerator Condenser Fan Motor
Customer Repair Stories
Front bearing had worn so that the fan vibrated causing the noise.
I removed the cardboard back then using a nut driver removed the three mounting screws, removed the old fan/motor and installed the new one, installing the three screws and replacing the cardboard cover.
My big problem was getting the right parts. Don't ever order refrigerator parts using the refrigerator model number. I did ... Read more and got the wrong part, sent it back and talked to the parts lady and ordered again describing the error, the needed parts shape etc and she sent me the exact part I had sent back. I sent it back and removed the fan motor to get the part number, called and ordered by number and got the right one. Hallelujah!
My big problem was getting the right parts. Don't ever order refrigerator parts using the refrigerator model number. I did ... Read more and got the wrong part, sent it back and talked to the parts lady and ordered again describing the error, the needed parts shape etc and she sent me the exact part I had sent back. I sent it back and removed the fan motor to get the part number, called and ordered by number and got the right one. Hallelujah!
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Earl from PIMA, AZ
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
7 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Fixes Symptom 1% of time
Sold Individually - Appliance originally takes 2.
$
9.95
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11739011
Manufacturer Part Number WP2176759
Customer Repair Stories
Noise in Evaporator Fan section
Opening up the Evaporator Fan section was a quick and easy job. After opening, I checked and removed the fan and looked at the grommet. The grommet on the fan was tight and secure and I could no longer hear the noise. I closed the opening. Something I had done while checking the fan grommet must have solved the problem. I have not hear th
... Read more
e noise again!
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Richard from HOLLISTER, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
4 of 15 people
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The ice dispenser handle wasn't working properly. Sometime when dispenser handle was pressed it didn't dispense ice on the first try.
I installed a Ice Door Kit. It works Great Now!
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Richard from CONYERS, GA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 8 people
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