91132355591 Kenmore Cooktop - Instructions

Removed the two screws holding the porcelain burner bowl. Disconected the electric igniter by removing the "w" clip on the underside of the bowl. Then disconnected the igniter from the electric supply cord. Reverse these directions using the new urner bowl.
Really easy.

first I removed all the srews from the burners that hold the glass cooktop. I then disconected the two wires from the damaged gas valves and replaced them all four with the new ones. After that I put it all togehter and work just fine and celebrated with a good cold beer.

Pulled off burner grates, burner, unscrewed burner bowl, removed clip from igniter and wire, then put it all back together. Was very easy, and the stove looks like new again.

PartSelect is very good with amazing shipment times. The kjpart arrived much sooner than expected.

The most difficult part of the repair was getting the front panel off. I needed to remove the top of the stove, which was easy but awkward - remove the two screws from each of the four burner bowls. Lift the bowls one by one, disconnect the wire and slide off the small clip under each igniter. Move the bowls and igniters out of the way. You will find a piece of sealant underneath the stove top covering the length of the front panel. You need to gently pry it off by lifting the stove top just enough to break the seal. Once the top is separated just gently move it to the back of the stove. You can now remove the 3 large screws underneath the front panel. There are also 2 screws under the plastic anchors that hold the front panel in place. Be careful, there are hidden screws in the back of each anchor, so don't break them. You just need to loosen them just enough to wiggle the front panel out. With the panel moved, the igniter switches are mounted over each knob. There is a spring washer clip holding them down. Gently pry off the clip of the damaged switch and disconnect the two wires. Make sure you put the wires back in the same order.

No way to adjust mixer tube assembly so the mounting holes will line up with the holes in the burner bowl. Mounting
holes in bowl should be slotted to prevent future problems.
Had to finally bend the mixer tube mounting bracket enough to get one bowl on. It also made the procelin break
on that bowl because the screw put to much pressure on the side of the hole.

Igighter mounting hole out of position just enough to prevent the burner head from sliding over it and sitting on
the mixer tube correctly.

I solved this problem by fileing the opening slot for the igniter. Even with the igniters being just a little out of
alignment from the original position they still light well.

I did not get new gaskets for the burner bowl but would reccommend that you get them.

I replaced the igniter under the knob.

The replacement part not right size for the porcelain cone for gas. Had to unscrew 2 screws remove the cone, after unclicking gas wire. The gas spreader did not fit with the cone in place.

Shut of electric supply. Remove knobs and open top cover of cook top by removing two screws near each burner and replace switch.

The top is all glass so I took my time. There was about 12 screws and double sided tape. A lock washer holding the igniter on. It also gave me a chance to clean the hard to get to places. Your price was almost half of what a suppier here and getting it would have been 2 weeks compared to your 48 hours to my door. Thanks again

I received a defective part from PartsSelect.com. After contacting their Customer Service, they promptly replaced the part for no charge at all. I am very, very pleased with PartsSelect.com and recommend them to all "home mechanics".

The bowl was replaced by removing two screws, removing the igniter wire, clip, and igniter. Reverse to re-assemble. I would recommend replacing the gasket at the same time.

Real simple to do. Simply remove the two screws holding the bowl and disconnect the electric wire. Obviously first pull the power cord to prevent being shocked.
Re-attach the power cord and and screw the bowl tight. Plug in the power cord.

Easy, just remove two top screws, unplug the igniter wire and then do it in reverse. Your're done in less than 15min.

Ok - I LOVE THIS COMPANY!! When I read the other blogs I was a little confused. Ok first choosing the right drip pan for my gas stovetop was a little confusing because there was a cheaper one that look just like mine. I didn't have the model number - so I WOULD have guessed on it. Later I took my stovetop apart and found model number. Found that MY model required the more expensive drip pans. I think this will help people.... (1) Both type of drip pans looked just alike, but the space between the ignitor and the flame was different. The closer one wouldn't have worked. (2) They were categorized as small medium and large drip pans. BUT - they all had the same dimension: 9 inches. The difference is made in the flame area. My stove top has one small flame area, one large and two mediums, that's how you determine which size you need. (3) The ignitor, when you take it off - nothing shows whether the little white ignitor breaks apart or not, and HOW you get it out. Once you remove the little wire holding it to the drippan, don't try to pull apart the white ignitor, it doesn't come apart. Mine had rusty residue attaached, making it hard to pull through. But when I removed the crusty stuff the white thing popped through the hole. (I called a REP to see if the white thing tore apart or not and they weren't sure. So maybe this will help some other woman who is wondering.) This was ABSOLUTELY the easiest and most cost effective way to have a nearly BRAND NEW stove top. And I'm pleased with myself that I did it without any help.

Removed two small screws, removed old bowl, placed new bowl, replaced screws.

Removed two screws holding drip bowl in place. Removed spring clip holding igniter to drip bowl and removed igniter. Installed igniter to new drip bowl and installed drip bowl to cook top. Took less than 5 minutes.