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Sample Model Number Tags
Model numbers can be made up of numbers (1005400, for example) or a combination of letters and numbers (LAT1000AAE). The model number will most likely appear on either a paper sticker or a metal plate. Your appliance's model number tag may look similar to the sample model number tags shown here (model number highlighted in yellow):
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This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
$17.80
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives in 2-3 business days!
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
$20.95
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives in 2-3 business days!
The flat style oven igniter is also known as a range oven igniter. The function of this part is to glow extremely hot in order to ignite the gas for the oven burner. With this flat style oven igniter,...
$54.00
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives in 2-3 business days!
This is cookware designed for use in your range or oven. It is a two-piece dish that is used to grill or cook food while the broil function is on, meaning it can withstand high temperatures. This set ...
$47.20
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives in 2-3 business days!
This hex nut is an authentic Whirlpool part that is sourced directly from the original equipment manufacturer, and will fit a variety of appliances including ovens, microwaves, refrigerators, air cond...
$8.95
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives in 2-3 business days!
This oven light assembly is a little over four inches long and comes with the lens and 660-watt light bulb. Make sure your appliance is unplugged or circuit breaker is off before installing this new p...
$80.43
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives in 2-3 business days!
The hinge kit, or oven door hinge, is used in ranges and wall ovens. The hinge attaches to the right side of the door and controls how fast the door opens. At a specific angle, it allows the door to r...
After shutting off the gas and removing the oven door, which simply slid off of the hinges, I removed the oven plate. The ignitor was attached to the manifold. I removed that and noted the wires were attached back behind a hole in the back of the oven. I thought I would have to access them from the back but when I pulled on them I was
... Read more able to reach them from the front. I was surprised to find plastic lugs covering the wire ends, rather than ceramic. I attached the new ignitor wires and reused the plastic lugs, as no ceramic ones came with the new ignitor. I carefully slid the new ignitor back into the cage/shield attached to the manifold and replaced the manifold. I then turned the gas back on and tested the ignitor (which worked perfectly) before replacing the oven plate. The repair took less than 30 minutes, but my wife and I thoroughly cleaned the door and interior while we had it apart. The hardest part was getting the door back on the hinges, but this too was accomplished after several attempts. The oven heats up beautifully now.
After I bought this part, installed it and the clicking still did not stop I finally found the problem. If your ignitor can still click then it's still good. The problem is the electric connection between the head burners and the base burners (Top Assembly diagram). Put a little weight on the head burner while grabbing it with your hand a
... Read morend grind it into the base burner with a little twisting motion. Repeat for all 4 burners. Presto! (you could be more professional and use steel wool or sandpaper to.) If you stll want to know how to install this part begin by removing the control panel bracket #24. Then remove the glass top w/seal #9 (after removing the knobs). You may have to tease this out because the rubber seal is sticky. The switch plate #14 comes off after removing 2 obvious screws at each end and 2 not-so-obvious star screws attaching it to the manifold #6. Remove the spark module by removing 2 of the 3 screws and sliding it out of the 3rd screw.
After the appliance store told me that the repair would cost about $500 to fix an oven that wouldn't light we didn't have the money to repair it or buy a new one so we went without an oven (only the oven) for almost 1 year. The igniter would glow but the oven would not light. my son found your site online and passed it on to me. It was so
... Read more simple it's almost funny. I opened the oven door and removed the burner cover. Then reached in and removed the three screws that held the igniter in place. Turned off the gas, disconedted it so I could pull the stove out to get behind it. Found the wires to the igniter and undid the 2 wire nuts. Removed the igniter cover from the old one and slid it onto the new one. Be very careful because the igniter is very delicate and be sure to not toucjh the heating eliment. Slid the new part into place, reinstalled the screws, connected the new wires with the old wire nuts, reconnected the gas and turned on the oven. BAM it worked like a charm.
