DBB3300EA1AA General Electric Dryer - Overview
Sections of the DBB3300EA1AA
[Viewing 4 of 4]Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".

DRYER FRONT BEARING WHITE 2PK
PartSelect #: PS17137205
Manufacturer #: WE03X37318
This authentic, white Drum Bearing Slide, also known as the bearing drum slide, glide, or pad, is a plastic, easy-to-install part for your dryer. It replaces the dryer's front drum slide to allow for ...
$15.95
In Stock

Dryer Drum Bearing Sleeve
PartSelect #: PS266777
Manufacturer #: WE1M462
Keep your GE dryer running smoothly with this genuine OEM rear drum bearing sleeve, designed specifically for GE dryer models. This part supports the back of the dryer drum and helps reduce friction a...
$28.95
In Stock

Dryer Door Switch
PartSelect #: PS2344321
Manufacturer #: WE4M415
A door switch is a simple on/off mechanism that prohibits the dryer from operating when the door is open.
$34.95
In Stock

Dryer Retainer O-Ring
PartSelect #: PS266776
Manufacturer #: WE1M461
This authentic OEM rear bearing O-ring is designed for use with GE dryers. It helps secure the drum rear bearing onto the drum shaft, playing a key role in maintaining smooth and quiet dryer operation...
$14.95
In Stock

Dryer Heating Element And Housing
PartSelect #: PS265565
Manufacturer #: WE11M23
Note: The insulators on the housing are NOT sold separately.
$128.25
In Stock

Dryer Terminal Block And Grounding Strap
PartSelect #: PS1015628
Manufacturer #: WE4M325
This part is connected to the rear bulkhead of the dryer with screws. It provides a way of connecting individual electrical wires and offers protection of the device from electrical surges (voltages and/or currents).
$36.95
In Stock

Timer Resistor
PartSelect #: PS267964
Manufacturer #: WE4M255
Enhance the performance and durability of your dryer with this Genuine Replacement Dryer Resistor from GE (General Electric), a reputable brand known for delivering top-notch home appliances. Engineer...
$36.95
In Stock

Cycling Thermostat
PartSelect #: PS267949
Manufacturer #: WE4M216
This thermostat is located on the blower wheel.
$78.35
In Stock

Front Panel Assembly
PartSelect #: PS10059171
Manufacturer #: WE49X22295
Highlighting the reliability and functionality of your GE dryer, this Front Panel Assembly is a game changer. This white front panel and door assembly provides a sleek aesthetic while also offering an...
$159.55
In Stock

Dryer Term Block Cover
PartSelect #: PS8746217
Manufacturer #: WE1M1102
Enhance the performance of your dryer with this genuine GE Term Block Cover. This vital component helps to connect the house electrical to the dryer wiring harness. Remember to unplug the dryer before...
$22.95
In Stock

Dryer Screw
PartSelect #: PS258453
Manufacturer #: WD02X10057
This screw is sold individually. Size: 10-16x1/2
$13.95
In Stock
Questions And Answers for DBB3300EA1AA
We're sorry, but our Q&A experts are temporarily unavailable.
Please check back later if you still haven't found the answer you need.
Common Symptoms of the DBB3300EA1AA
[Viewing 5 of 5]Noisy
Fixed by
these parts
these parts



Show All
Marks left on clothes
Fixed by
these parts
these parts

Show All
Won’t Start
Fixed by
these parts
these parts

Show All
Not Heating
Fixed by
these parts
these parts

Show All
Drum Not Spinning
Fixed by
these parts
these parts

Show All
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Heater element went out
First of all, unplug the dryer. I removed the two screws on the front of the cabinet to remove the top. I then took out the screws to remove the dial panel. Release the belt for the drum through the access hole in the rear of the dryer. Remove the front cover and pull the drum assembly out.
Remove the element disc from the ... Read more rear of the housing, take note of the the wireing placement. Replace disc and reverse order of disassembly.
This job was easy for me as I am a tinkerer by nature. The hardest part of the whole job was waiting on the part, which by the way was ordered on a Sunday evening and I had the replacement in my hands and back in the dryer running by 1:00 PM on the following Tuesday!
I book marked this website and WILL refer it to others who simply need a repair, not a costly new appliance!
Remove the element disc from the ... Read more rear of the housing, take note of the the wireing placement. Replace disc and reverse order of disassembly.
This job was easy for me as I am a tinkerer by nature. The hardest part of the whole job was waiting on the part, which by the way was ordered on a Sunday evening and I had the replacement in my hands and back in the dryer running by 1:00 PM on the following Tuesday!
I book marked this website and WILL refer it to others who simply need a repair, not a costly new appliance!
Read less
Parts Used:
-
Brian from Clinton, MO
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
186 of 222 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer would not start
The end repair was very simple and took minimal effort. The time and difficulty was all in the testing. I disassembled the dryer and removed the drum and then hard wired each thermo-fuse to determine where the fault was. After test all of those I was stumped. When I opened the door the light would not come on so I assumed it was a pow
... Read more
er fault closer to the source. However after all of my testing I couldn't find anything wrong. I then removed the light bulb and realized it was burned out which led me to the door switch being the fault. I removed the switch and soldered the three wire together and the dryer started right up! All I had to do was order a new $15 part, unsolder the wires and plug them in. Would have been so much simpler if that light bulb hadn't of been burned out causing me to over think my diagnosis. This was my first major appliance repair and I did it with only the help of the parts diagram provided on the website.
Read less
Parts Used:
-
Joshua from Dallas, TX
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
89 of 136 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Rubbing/Squealing Noise While Drying, especially during cold weather
This part arrived at our house two days after I ordered it. I was stunned by how quickly it arrived.
Our dryer was making a very annoying squeaking/rubbing noise while drying and it became worse as the outside temps dropped (it's winter)...colder air cooling the exhaust line, causing metal in dryer to contract more.
... Read more >I called an appliance repair service and they said, "Honestly, your money is going to be better spent to just buy a new dryer. The bearings on these are a pain to replace."
Yeah, right.
I've never taken apart a dryer, but it took me less than 45 minutes to complete this repair and our dryer is back to normal. Total cost was $18, including shipping. A $300 savings versus buying a new dryer.
There is another description of the process for this part so I won't repeat it all.
I did it a little differently than most, namely I did not remove the dryer drum. I simply pulled it out about six inches (make sure and slide belt back as you inch out the drum). But first, unplug the dryer, then remove the top, then the front.
A Philips screwdriver will quickly remove the top of the dryer (two screws on inside front, where door closes) and the front face (two screws at top of front, inside face). Lift the front up about an inch and it is free. I had to disconnect a couple wires, just make sure you mark before you disconnect them.
With that done, the drum will pull straight toward you (out). Make sure and support the weight of the drum as you slide it out. I found no need to remove the drum.
At the rear inside of our drum, there are three Torx screws that hold the bearing assembly on. I have a pretty long reach so I just removed two of the Torx screws, then reached around the back of the drum while removing the third screw, to keep the bearing assembly from falling onto the floor behind the back of the drum.
This plastic bearing is held to the bearing shaft by a little o-ring. Just pull the o-ring off, slide off the old bearing, slide the new bearing on and replace the o-ring (if yours is broken, any home store will have one that will work as a replacement in their faucet repair department).
Reattach the bearing housing to the drum with the Torx screws (get all three started before you tighten any of them), slide the drum back in - make sure you slide the belt as you move the drum back in and support the weight of the drum so you don't bash the bearing assembly into the back of the dryer.
You're doing this part blind, but in a few seconds, you can guide the bearing back into the hole in the back wall of the dryer. It just slides into the hole, nothing fancy.
Put the front of the dryer back on. Then replace the top (I had to remove the five screws on top of the dial panel to give it some flex so the top would pop back into place without stressing the dial panel), plug the dryer back in, and fire it up.
45 minutes after this part arrived at our home, our dryer problems were gone. Now that I've done one, I could probably do it in 20 minutes the next time (it's that simple/easy). And we didn't need a new dryer. Makes me think I should have the appliance guy who told me we needed a new dryer to direct all of these "pain in the fanny" bearing replacements to me because I could charge someone $50 total for the repair and make good money.
Hope all this babble helps someone else who doesn't need a new dryer.
Our dryer was making a very annoying squeaking/rubbing noise while drying and it became worse as the outside temps dropped (it's winter)...colder air cooling the exhaust line, causing metal in dryer to contract more.
... Read more >I called an appliance repair service and they said, "Honestly, your money is going to be better spent to just buy a new dryer. The bearings on these are a pain to replace."
Yeah, right.
I've never taken apart a dryer, but it took me less than 45 minutes to complete this repair and our dryer is back to normal. Total cost was $18, including shipping. A $300 savings versus buying a new dryer.
There is another description of the process for this part so I won't repeat it all.
I did it a little differently than most, namely I did not remove the dryer drum. I simply pulled it out about six inches (make sure and slide belt back as you inch out the drum). But first, unplug the dryer, then remove the top, then the front.
A Philips screwdriver will quickly remove the top of the dryer (two screws on inside front, where door closes) and the front face (two screws at top of front, inside face). Lift the front up about an inch and it is free. I had to disconnect a couple wires, just make sure you mark before you disconnect them.
With that done, the drum will pull straight toward you (out). Make sure and support the weight of the drum as you slide it out. I found no need to remove the drum.
At the rear inside of our drum, there are three Torx screws that hold the bearing assembly on. I have a pretty long reach so I just removed two of the Torx screws, then reached around the back of the drum while removing the third screw, to keep the bearing assembly from falling onto the floor behind the back of the drum.
This plastic bearing is held to the bearing shaft by a little o-ring. Just pull the o-ring off, slide off the old bearing, slide the new bearing on and replace the o-ring (if yours is broken, any home store will have one that will work as a replacement in their faucet repair department).
Reattach the bearing housing to the drum with the Torx screws (get all three started before you tighten any of them), slide the drum back in - make sure you slide the belt as you move the drum back in and support the weight of the drum so you don't bash the bearing assembly into the back of the dryer.
You're doing this part blind, but in a few seconds, you can guide the bearing back into the hole in the back wall of the dryer. It just slides into the hole, nothing fancy.
Put the front of the dryer back on. Then replace the top (I had to remove the five screws on top of the dial panel to give it some flex so the top would pop back into place without stressing the dial panel), plug the dryer back in, and fire it up.
45 minutes after this part arrived at our home, our dryer problems were gone. Now that I've done one, I could probably do it in 20 minutes the next time (it's that simple/easy). And we didn't need a new dryer. Makes me think I should have the appliance guy who told me we needed a new dryer to direct all of these "pain in the fanny" bearing replacements to me because I could charge someone $50 total for the repair and make good money.
Hope all this babble helps someone else who doesn't need a new dryer.
Read less
Parts Used:
-
Gary from Spring Hill, TN
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
58 of 74 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!