DFE28JMKDES General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I went to a GE repair center to explain my problem, the service center reccomended that I have a techinician come out o look at it. $75.00 for the visit and what ever labor and materials wuld cost.

I went on line to see if there were others having this same problem and found that there were many with the same problem.

After reading some of the ways that people found out what was wrong ...it became a matter of three components, the timer, heater or thermostat.

I tried the most common component and the less expensive one first , the thermostat switch I installed it very easily snipping two wires and attaching the news using wire nuts I used the diagram on this website to pinpoint the component and there has not been a problem since.

I removed the old temperature sensor by cutting the wires. I attached the wires of the new sensor with wire nuts and mounted it in the same bracket.

went to your website and viewed exploded view to find the sensor( there are two I just picked one to replace for now), pried the cover off carfully and pulled out the sensor. I snipped the wire in the middle leaving plenty to work with. I shortened the wire on the new piece, spliced the wires together and with some 3M rubberized, tape wrapped them up, replaced the sensor back into the cover and snapped in place.

put fridge into test mode, failed One sensor. Took it out, Tested it, Ordered part also picked up splice kit from electric store spliced it truned on and good to go

Took panel off back of inside of freezer section, took off old sensor from the evaporator, spliced new sensor into the existing wires, waterproofed spliced connections, snapped sensor back onto evaporator, then put panel back on the inside of the freezer. Really, it took only 10 minutes to fix. Now refrigerator defrosts like it used to, and temps have settled in at specified temps.

Noticed the problem in November 2009. Replaced Hi Limit Sesor for Defrost thinking it was the freezor temperature sensor. Did not fix the problem. Replaced Motherboard. Did not fix the problem. Called Sears Repair. They mis-diagnosed the problem and told me it was the sealed system. I doubted them and sent them home. Replaced the correct freezer temperature sensor that connects to the motherboard. FIXED.
Removed a panel, cut two wires, soldered and insulated two wries, reinstalled panel.

No self defrost. Measured heater coil with ohm meter which was OK (not open). Ordered 2 temp sensors (there are 2 in freezer, 2 in fresh food sections). The original and the new all meaured ~150 ohms. Replaced one by one. This did not fix problem. Ordered defrost thermostat. Original measured ~150 ohms - new one was ~100 ohms. Unpluged refridgerator. Removed coil panel (4 nut screws) in freezer and light cover (1 small phillips screw). Locate defrost thermostat clipped to top of coils (orange / pink wires). Cut wires and unclipped thermostat. Stripped insulation off of wires and reconnect using wire nuts. Clipped thermostat back to coils. Ran refridgerator without panel on coils to see if coils frosted up again and listend for fans/compressor to stop ( took hours). Opened freezer and viewed glow of defrost heater. Problem resolved.

removed frig bottom long drawer, removed the 2 narrower drawers above that. removed 2 plastic plates above the long drawer and unplugged pigtail. removed lower drawer slides and the back coil cover. removed small shroud that contained the fan pigtail and then removed the fan and replaced with the new one. fixed cooling issue and took 10 minutes from start to finish.

Simple repair, rolled refrigerator out, disconnected power, removed 4 screws holding door board, disconnected wire harness, replaced board on bench, returned to refrigerator, plugged in wire harnessing, replaced screws, plugged in, waited about 5 min. Tried door water dispense and it worked. Took a while for ice make to get up to speed, but it also works great.
After have a tech come out to look at, and he said it was freezing inside the door and needed a new door for right at $1,000.00, and nothing seem to indicate that as the problem. We took it on ourselves to try Partselect, ordered several extra parts, but only used the door board, returns went easy and i was refunded my money before I even sent the parts back. Great Service

Took out the old parts and replaced it with the new parts. The new OVERLOAD PTCR COMBO was different then the one that we replaced so we called customer service and they told us which wire to insert into each of the 2 slots and it is working like new again. Outstanding and knowledgeable customer service.

I replaced the three sensors, 2 in the freezer 1 in the refrigerator. This was rated as the most common problem. Did not fix the problem. I then checked the ohms on the new sensors then the old sensors they were all within .5 of each other. So I got smart and went down the list of causes on their list. I emailed partselect and asked what the parts should read. They replied with that information and it turned out to be the voltage converter on the compressor. I ordered the part on friday payed for overnight delivery and it arrived tuesday. This as you can imagine makes me angry. But the part was easy to install and my refrigerator started working right away. I would advise anyone with this problem to start at the top of the problem list use a multi meter check everything on the list and only replace part or parts that don't come up to standards. This will save time and money and hopefully fix the problem the first time as you are not switching out parts and hoping that it solves the problem.

After researching the likely cause online, I found that the lights inside the doors are wired in series, and if one led fails, the remaining lights dim.
I located the non working light by holding my hand in front of each light until I found the inoperative one. After receiving the replacement part, gently removed the light from the door frame with the trim removal tool, unplugged the failed light and plugged the new one in. Pressed the light back into place in the frame and all was well.

EXCHANGED THE LED LAMP ASSEMBLY. ONLY DO ONE AT A TIME AS THEY ARE WIRED IN SERIES!

I opened the back panel of the fridge and exposed the compressor. Unplugged existing run capacitor and installed new one with the addition of the sleeve that is stated must be installed around the run capacitor.
Everything I read and on this web site says that based on these symptoms, that the problem is the run capacitor. I searched and search for a part called a start relay which plugs in to the compressor. This run capacitor plugs in to this other part which I take as the start relay.

Installing this run capacitor did not solve the problem. The fridge compressor keeps cycling on and off. Freezer doesn't keep as cold as it should.

Our local appliance company was 4 weeks out for a service call and so I Rea searched this myself with help from Parts Select. Our best guess was the control module which they shipped and had in hand within 3 days time. Turn off the breaker or unplug your fridge. There are two screws to remove under the bottom front of the touchpad/control panel, toward the outside edges. Remove screws, give it a gentle tap on top and it releases. Slide it down an inch or so and the side tabs release. Unplug the two connections for the lights and then you have two or three other connection, also easy to unplug.
The control panel is attached to the rear of the touchpad by 4- star screws. Replace the old control panel with the new one and then reverse the process above to re-install and your refrigerator is ready to power up. Thanks again to Parts Select on their help confirming my diagnostics!