FGES3045KBA Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Replaced clock control by removing surface burner control knobs and plastic nuts, and then the cover over the oven control. Two screw hold the clock in place, after removal and disconnecting the plug-in you can reinstall the new clock control. The Heat Sensor inside the oven will also need to be replaced. It is located inside the oven and attached with two screws; the back of the oven will need to be removed to unplug. Reverse removal procedure and turn the power back on to the stove.

PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools needed are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.

Repair was quite easy, as long as you have the instructions for removing the door. The screws that hold the bottom of the door to the fixed hinge are placed into the side of the hinge assembly after removal; this holds the door at a 45 degree angle for easy removal. After that, just place the door on a flat surface and dismantle the door from the inside. The inner glass is contained in a metal frame with another piece of glass; this frame comes apart easily using the clips in each side. The door assembles easily after the glass is replaced; just take your time and give yourself enough room to lay out the parts as you go. Good luck!

Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.

Removed old element and plugged in new. Very simple.

First I unplugged the stove.Removed the upper control panel back (10 phillips screws). Removed the plastic dial( pulls straight off). Removed the 2 screws behind the dial that is holding the switch in the control panel. Took one wire at a time off the old switch and put them on the new switch according to each electrical spade marking. L1, L2, H1, H2 and P. Installed the new switch in the control panel securing it with the 2 screws. Installed the dial, installed the upper back panel using the old screws. Plugged the stove back in and tested it.
Note: My new switches shaft was 1/8 of an inch longer so it does put the dial a little further away from the control panel. Wife says: It's OK, don't worry about it.

Had to reference original owner's manual for instruction(s) on how to remove oven door. Used several "YouTube" videos to reference oven door design (Oven door glass is actually several layers of glass.) After completing about 30 mins of research and finding the right square drive bit, the repair went smoothly and without complications. The biggest challenge was researching and understanding what part(s) were needed and how to replace them. It seemed liked a lot of work doing the research however it sure beat a $350 repair bill. It cost me $90 and about 1 1/2 hours of total time. Oven works better than ever, thanks parts select for the part(s) and diagram(s) ...

This was the first time replacing the fan. It is a lot easier to work in the oven compartment with the oven door removed, only two screws on the door and the hinges were released. I found that a couple of the screws were either rusted or stripped so I used a pair of pliers to remove the screws that were holding the diffuser in place. Once there was access to the fan I found that the fan was warped and that the blades were scraping against the back wall of the oven. The next challenge was to remove the retaining nut. I used a sheet metal screw to secure the warped fan to keep it from spinning. once I figured out that you have to turn the retaining nut to the right to loosen, it came off easily. 1/2" socket with extension. When I replace the fan I used two washers for spacers to make sure that the fan would not scrape the wall of the oven. Its been tested many times and the oven does not make that horrible sound anymore.

Removed electrical connector and two screws. Attached the electrical connector to the new probe and attached with the two screws.

First I removed the 2 screws that held it in place.
Then I took te screws out of the backguard cover and pulled it down so that I would get to it. Then I unplugged the wires, and replugged them on the new switch, then screwed it back in to the range, then put all the screws back in backguard cover, and plugged the range back up and put it back in its place. It was real easy.

I removed the sensor from inside the oven with a 1/4” nut driver, pulled the sensor out slowly and then took the connection apart and found out that the connector was different, I cut the connector off of the oven side and then cut the connector off of the new sensor and wired it together. I am still trying to find the ceramic nuts. My oven is working for now. Very easy fix, just wish there were ceramic wire nuts with the new sensor

Cut power to your oven in your circuit breaker panel
Take out racks and bottom pan from the oven
Remove 2 screws in element bracket at back of oven
Lift element gently, tilt upward and pull towards you out of insulation
Get the tilted wire connectors clear of the back panel
Remove two wires from from connectors gently with your fingers
Take bad element out of oven
Replace it with new element
Replace everything else
Piece of cake. 20 minutes max: remove old; plug and play.

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

1. Turn off power to the electric oven
2. Removed the two screws in the top side of the oven that hold it into the cabinet.
3. Made a support to set the oven on once you remove it from the wall. Or set it on the floor. You will need help this is not a one person job.
4. Used a Philips head screw drive removed the back of the oven panel. I did not have to remove the whole thing just took out half the screws and the electrical plug for the temperature sensor is right on the edge.
5. Unplugged sensor
6. Took out the two screw on the inside of the oven that holds the thermal sensor in place. Pulled it out the front.
7. Side the new thermal sensor in place replace the screws.
8. Pull the plug out and plug it back in. Check and push the insulation back in place where the thermal sensor.
9. Replace the back and replace the screws.
10. Slide oven back into the wall.
11. Replace the two screws that hold the oven in place in the frame.
12. Turn power back on
Check the temperature

First unplug the stove before staring any of this task. loosen and remove three cross tip screws at the upper front of the stove top. You will need a piece of 1x3 wood about 1 1/2 feet long to hold the stove top up (sets at an angle upwards to the front). Loosen remove the bracket holding the burner you wish to replace. Disconnect the electrical wires connected to the burner. The burner is held in place with bracket clamps, remove the clamps from the oven bracket holding it. The burner will have a series if numbers in the back side, remove the brackets one at a time and reinstall on the same number on the new burner. do this to all 3 or four brackets. Install the new burner, install the bracket holding the burner, reconnect the wires. remove the wood brace and all tools. lay the stove top back down on the stove. plug the stove in and test the burner to make sure it works. turn off the burner and install the screws hold the stove to in place. Ta-Da your done. Also you tube has movie shots to give you a much better picture of what I just wrote about...