GTD84GCSN1WS General Electric Dryer - Overview
Sections of the GTD84GCSN1WS
[Viewing 6 of 6]Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".

Felt Trap Duct
PartSelect #: PS12722961
Manufacturer #: WE09X27634
This is a duct felt seal for a dryer. The duct felt seal allows the front-load dryer drum to glide smoothly on the front panel. Your dryer will not function properly if the drum felt seal is compromis...
$37.95
In Stock

Lint Filter
PartSelect #: PS11763056
Manufacturer #: WE03X23881
This is a genuine OEM part that works for some models of GE, and Hotpoint models. This Lint Filter is used for Dryer.
$48.95
In Stock

Dryer Bearing Slide (2 Pack)
PartSelect #: PS17137207
Manufacturer #: WE03X37319
This drum glide bearing is an authentic OEM replacement part that is compatible with dryers. It is white in color and made of highly durable plastic. The bearing allows the drum to rotate smoothly and...
$15.95
In Stock

Dryer Bearing Slide (2 Pack)
PartSelect #: PS17626249
Manufacturer #: WE03X37320
This OEM replacement dryer slide bearing is white in color, and approximately 3 inches long. The slide bearings are supportive linings for your dryer. If they have eroded, or are damaged, the drums wi...
$23.95
In Stock

Dryer Switch
PartSelect #: PS1481922
Manufacturer #: WD21X10261
The interlock switch may also be referred to as a belt switch. This part is a simple on/off mechanism that prohibits the appliance from operating when the door is open. This is a part for your dryer. ...
$33.95
In Stock

Dryer Drum Bearing Sleeve
PartSelect #: PS266777
Manufacturer #: WE1M462
Keep your GE dryer running smoothly with this genuine OEM rear drum bearing sleeve, designed specifically for GE dryer models. This part supports the back of the dryer drum and helps reduce friction a...
$28.95
In Stock

DOOR SWITCH
PartSelect #: PS12722948
Manufacturer #: WE04X28977
This is the door switch for your dryer. Door switches are used to communicate with the control board when the door is fully closed, so the drying cycle can safely begin, and if it is opened so it can ...
$17.95
In Stock

Dryer Retainer O-Ring
PartSelect #: PS266776
Manufacturer #: WE1M461
This authentic OEM rear bearing O-ring is designed for use with GE dryers. It helps secure the drum rear bearing onto the drum shaft, playing a key role in maintaining smooth and quiet dryer operation...
$14.95
In Stock

Dryer Foam Seal
PartSelect #: PS2577674
Manufacturer #: WE1M825
This is 39 inches long.
$14.95
In Stock

Door Hinge
PartSelect #: PS11763047
Manufacturer #: WE01X25317
Experience the seamless functionality of your dryer with the GE Door Hinge. This dryer component plays a crucial role in the operation of your machine, supporting the dryer door on its front panel. It...
$37.95
In Stock

Dryer Igniter
PartSelect #: PS12342916
Manufacturer #: WE04X25996
NOTE: Be very careful to not handle the igniter by its gray part as it's very fragile. Hold it by its white tip only.
$56.38
In Stock

Dryer Inlet Control Thermostat
PartSelect #: PS1766014
Manufacturer #: WE4M398
This part is located on the housing for the heating element.
$46.95
In Stock
Questions And Answers for GTD84GCSN1WS
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Melvin
November 14, 2023
Dryer works but no heat
For model number GTD84GCSN1WS
Hello Melvin, thank you for reaching out. You may need to check the cycling thermostat. If it is not faulty, then you may need to replace the thermistor, part number PS1766014, to fix the issue. We hope this solves your problem!
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Common Symptoms of the GTD84GCSN1WS
[Viewing 11 of 11]Noisy
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Door won’t close
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Marks left on clothes
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Will Not Start
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Won’t Start
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Not Heating
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Door latch failure
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Drum Not Spinning
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Door Pops Open
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Door Sags
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Too hot
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
The dryer drum turned ok, but the gas heat did not start.
First I found and watched three videos on how to open the dryer and replace the igniter.
Then I opened the dryer, but I did not remove the belt as suggested in the video, and then I removed the ignitor and flame detecter as the videos had shown.
I got on-line and ordered the new parts from PartsSelect in the afternoon and had t ... Read more hem in my hands the next morning by 9:30 am.
I installed the new parts and everything worked fine again. You must be very careful with the igniter to not touch it with hands or anything else. I practiced puting in the old parts first.
Then I opened the dryer, but I did not remove the belt as suggested in the video, and then I removed the ignitor and flame detecter as the videos had shown.
I got on-line and ordered the new parts from PartsSelect in the afternoon and had t ... Read more hem in my hands the next morning by 9:30 am.
I installed the new parts and everything worked fine again. You must be very careful with the igniter to not touch it with hands or anything else. I practiced puting in the old parts first.
Read less
Parts Used:
-
Gary L. from Freeport, IL
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Screw drivers
120 of 162 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Thank you for voting!
Rubbing/Squealing Noise While Drying, especially during cold weather
This part arrived at our house two days after I ordered it. I was stunned by how quickly it arrived.
Our dryer was making a very annoying squeaking/rubbing noise while drying and it became worse as the outside temps dropped (it's winter)...colder air cooling the exhaust line, causing metal in dryer to contract more.
... Read more >I called an appliance repair service and they said, "Honestly, your money is going to be better spent to just buy a new dryer. The bearings on these are a pain to replace."
Yeah, right.
I've never taken apart a dryer, but it took me less than 45 minutes to complete this repair and our dryer is back to normal. Total cost was $18, including shipping. A $300 savings versus buying a new dryer.
There is another description of the process for this part so I won't repeat it all.
I did it a little differently than most, namely I did not remove the dryer drum. I simply pulled it out about six inches (make sure and slide belt back as you inch out the drum). But first, unplug the dryer, then remove the top, then the front.
A Philips screwdriver will quickly remove the top of the dryer (two screws on inside front, where door closes) and the front face (two screws at top of front, inside face). Lift the front up about an inch and it is free. I had to disconnect a couple wires, just make sure you mark before you disconnect them.
With that done, the drum will pull straight toward you (out). Make sure and support the weight of the drum as you slide it out. I found no need to remove the drum.
At the rear inside of our drum, there are three Torx screws that hold the bearing assembly on. I have a pretty long reach so I just removed two of the Torx screws, then reached around the back of the drum while removing the third screw, to keep the bearing assembly from falling onto the floor behind the back of the drum.
This plastic bearing is held to the bearing shaft by a little o-ring. Just pull the o-ring off, slide off the old bearing, slide the new bearing on and replace the o-ring (if yours is broken, any home store will have one that will work as a replacement in their faucet repair department).
Reattach the bearing housing to the drum with the Torx screws (get all three started before you tighten any of them), slide the drum back in - make sure you slide the belt as you move the drum back in and support the weight of the drum so you don't bash the bearing assembly into the back of the dryer.
You're doing this part blind, but in a few seconds, you can guide the bearing back into the hole in the back wall of the dryer. It just slides into the hole, nothing fancy.
Put the front of the dryer back on. Then replace the top (I had to remove the five screws on top of the dial panel to give it some flex so the top would pop back into place without stressing the dial panel), plug the dryer back in, and fire it up.
45 minutes after this part arrived at our home, our dryer problems were gone. Now that I've done one, I could probably do it in 20 minutes the next time (it's that simple/easy). And we didn't need a new dryer. Makes me think I should have the appliance guy who told me we needed a new dryer to direct all of these "pain in the fanny" bearing replacements to me because I could charge someone $50 total for the repair and make good money.
Hope all this babble helps someone else who doesn't need a new dryer.
Our dryer was making a very annoying squeaking/rubbing noise while drying and it became worse as the outside temps dropped (it's winter)...colder air cooling the exhaust line, causing metal in dryer to contract more.
... Read more >I called an appliance repair service and they said, "Honestly, your money is going to be better spent to just buy a new dryer. The bearings on these are a pain to replace."
Yeah, right.
I've never taken apart a dryer, but it took me less than 45 minutes to complete this repair and our dryer is back to normal. Total cost was $18, including shipping. A $300 savings versus buying a new dryer.
There is another description of the process for this part so I won't repeat it all.
I did it a little differently than most, namely I did not remove the dryer drum. I simply pulled it out about six inches (make sure and slide belt back as you inch out the drum). But first, unplug the dryer, then remove the top, then the front.
A Philips screwdriver will quickly remove the top of the dryer (two screws on inside front, where door closes) and the front face (two screws at top of front, inside face). Lift the front up about an inch and it is free. I had to disconnect a couple wires, just make sure you mark before you disconnect them.
With that done, the drum will pull straight toward you (out). Make sure and support the weight of the drum as you slide it out. I found no need to remove the drum.
At the rear inside of our drum, there are three Torx screws that hold the bearing assembly on. I have a pretty long reach so I just removed two of the Torx screws, then reached around the back of the drum while removing the third screw, to keep the bearing assembly from falling onto the floor behind the back of the drum.
This plastic bearing is held to the bearing shaft by a little o-ring. Just pull the o-ring off, slide off the old bearing, slide the new bearing on and replace the o-ring (if yours is broken, any home store will have one that will work as a replacement in their faucet repair department).
Reattach the bearing housing to the drum with the Torx screws (get all three started before you tighten any of them), slide the drum back in - make sure you slide the belt as you move the drum back in and support the weight of the drum so you don't bash the bearing assembly into the back of the dryer.
You're doing this part blind, but in a few seconds, you can guide the bearing back into the hole in the back wall of the dryer. It just slides into the hole, nothing fancy.
Put the front of the dryer back on. Then replace the top (I had to remove the five screws on top of the dial panel to give it some flex so the top would pop back into place without stressing the dial panel), plug the dryer back in, and fire it up.
45 minutes after this part arrived at our home, our dryer problems were gone. Now that I've done one, I could probably do it in 20 minutes the next time (it's that simple/easy). And we didn't need a new dryer. Makes me think I should have the appliance guy who told me we needed a new dryer to direct all of these "pain in the fanny" bearing replacements to me because I could charge someone $50 total for the repair and make good money.
Hope all this babble helps someone else who doesn't need a new dryer.
Read less
Parts Used:
-
Gary from Spring Hill, TN
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
58 of 75 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Thank you for voting!
Gas dryer was not getting hot and smelled like gas inside drum
Removed lower front panel and then front including door (need to remove the top to access screws.) Replaced both the ingiter and heat detector. The tricky part was getting access to the long tunnel-like bracket that houses the igniter. Washer and Dryer are in a tight cutout space in very small laundry room.
Parts Used:
-
Todd from Santa Rosa Valley, CA
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
53 of 88 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!