GTW810SSJ1WS General Electric Washer - Overview
Sections of the GTW810SSJ1WS
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Dishwasher Screw 816 Hxw 1/2 (Stainless Steel)
PartSelect #: PS258461
Manufacturer #: WD02X10067
This OEM-compatible screw is designed for use with many GE dishwashers. Measuring 8-16 HXW and 1/2" in length, this stainless steel screw secures the middle spray arm hub to the upper rack assembly, e...
$13.95
In Stock

NUT HUB
PartSelect #: PS8757009
Manufacturer #: WH02X10363
Perfect for your GE washer, the Nut Hub is designed to secure the washer hub to the gear case shaft with precision. It plays a crucial part in ensuring the appliance runs smoothly and efficiently. The...
$19.95
In Stock

Hub
PartSelect #: PS8757010
Manufacturer #: WH02X10364
Upgrade your washer with the reliable Washer Hub from GE. This essential component, often referred to as the hub nut, offers sturdiness and quality that GE products are known for. Before installation,...
$14.95
In Stock

HOSE DRAIN
PartSelect #: PS8757195
Manufacturer #: WH41X10319
Introducing the GE Drain Hose, specifically designed for washing machines. This essential accessory safely transports used water from your washer directly to your house drain, establishing an efficien...
$45.95
In Stock
Questions And Answers for GTW810SSJ1WS
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Bradley
February 6, 2020
Our GE washer has a glass top and it has snapped from the hinge and needs to be replaced
For model number GTW810SSJ1WS
Hi Bradley. We have found a replacement part linked below. Thank you for your question and good luck with your repair.
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ASHLEY
March 24, 2020
The washer is banging around very violently during the faster spin cycle. Any ideas as to why?
For model number GTW810SSJ1WS
Hello Ashley, thank you for your inquiry. We would suspect that the suspension rod and springs are more than likely causing this issue. The suspension rod and spring assembly is showing on our website as PartSelect number PS11729483. We hope this helps.
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James
June 4, 2022
Has a grinding/scraping noise during agitation cycle. Only on change of direction. What is suspected cause?
For model number GTW810SSJ1WS
Hi James,
Thank you for your question. If you are hearing a grinding noise when the washer is agitating, the tub bearing is worn or damaged and needs to be replaced. The bearing is sold with the platform and bearing assembly. The part number listed under your model number for the platform and bearing assembly is PS11729492. If you need help placing an order for it, customer service is open 7 days a week and anyone will be happy to assist you. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!
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Larry
November 9, 2024
It sensing for awhile than goes in pause
For model number GTW810SSJ1WS
Hoi Larry, Thank you for contacting PartSelect.com. If the appliance is not locking then this might indicate a problem with the lid locking. If the lid locking normally, this may be an indication the control board is defective and needs replacing. We hope this helps!
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Common Symptoms of the GTW810SSJ1WS
[Viewing 4 of 4]Not cleaning dishes properly
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Leaking
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Noisy
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Will not drain
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Tub Seal Replacement - Direct Drive with Detergent/Fabric Softener Despensing
This procedure was completely different from any other Tub Seal I've done and in my opinion needs 2 people. The first thing to note is that this seal must be removed from the bottom of the outer tub. Also, the top of this machine does not hinge in back. The typical clips are in front, but the back has 2 screws that must be removed. Since
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the wiring was too involved to completely separate the top from the base, I had to improvise a stand to hold the top while the rest of the process was completed - keep slack on all remaining connected wires. The motor, clutch and bearing plate must be removed from the bottom in order to access the Tub Seal. Below are the steps I did to complete the process:
- Remove Control Panel Cover (rear)
- Disconnect as many wire harness plugs as possible from Control Board (Note positions for reassembly - pictures work well)
- Remove Pressure Switch
- Disconnect Detergent and Softener dispense hoses from Machine Top
- Rotate top 180 degrees (Flat-Spin) and position so no strain is on the still connected wires.
- Remove Tub Cover
- Remove Impeller (Agitator) from inside tub.
- Remove Tub Nut - Note Left handed Threads (I used 1/2" Drive Impact)
- Remove rear Cross Bar from cabinet (Cross Bar must be removed since tub will not fit through opening. Once removed it must be held in place or outer tub will fall)
- Remove Inner Tub - This tub is heavy and fluid-balanced. Mine required 2 people to wobble and pull for removal.
- Replace Cross bar to keep unit stable
- Lay machine on its side - use care not stretch or pull any wires.
- Remove motor, (Rotor and Stator)
- Remove Clutch and wires
- Loosen all wire ties (Use tiny screwdriver to release ties - Do Not remove the tie mount) securing wires to Bearing Plate and push wires to the outside edge of bearing Plate
- Remove all screws securing Bearing Plate to Outer Tub
- Use flat-head Screwdriver to gently pry Bearing Plate away from outer tub (Quite Heavy - Use Care)
- Tub Seal is now exposed on top of Bearing Plate and can now be removed and replaced (Be sure to clean all seal mating surfaces and lubricate with dish soap)
- Reverse this sequence in the exact order for re-assembly taking care to reconnect all wiring plugs and ground wires.
- During Re-assembly I used Blue Loctite on all bolts securing the Clutch, Stator, and Rotor as I found several very loose on my machine
- Remove Control Panel Cover (rear)
- Disconnect as many wire harness plugs as possible from Control Board (Note positions for reassembly - pictures work well)
- Remove Pressure Switch
- Disconnect Detergent and Softener dispense hoses from Machine Top
- Rotate top 180 degrees (Flat-Spin) and position so no strain is on the still connected wires.
- Remove Tub Cover
- Remove Impeller (Agitator) from inside tub.
- Remove Tub Nut - Note Left handed Threads (I used 1/2" Drive Impact)
- Remove rear Cross Bar from cabinet (Cross Bar must be removed since tub will not fit through opening. Once removed it must be held in place or outer tub will fall)
- Remove Inner Tub - This tub is heavy and fluid-balanced. Mine required 2 people to wobble and pull for removal.
- Replace Cross bar to keep unit stable
- Lay machine on its side - use care not stretch or pull any wires.
- Remove motor, (Rotor and Stator)
- Remove Clutch and wires
- Loosen all wire ties (Use tiny screwdriver to release ties - Do Not remove the tie mount) securing wires to Bearing Plate and push wires to the outside edge of bearing Plate
- Remove all screws securing Bearing Plate to Outer Tub
- Use flat-head Screwdriver to gently pry Bearing Plate away from outer tub (Quite Heavy - Use Care)
- Tub Seal is now exposed on top of Bearing Plate and can now be removed and replaced (Be sure to clean all seal mating surfaces and lubricate with dish soap)
- Reverse this sequence in the exact order for re-assembly taking care to reconnect all wiring plugs and ground wires.
- During Re-assembly I used Blue Loctite on all bolts securing the Clutch, Stator, and Rotor as I found several very loose on my machine
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Parts Used:
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Greg from SPRING CITY, TN
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Difficulty Level:Very Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
15 of 18 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Constant Drip into Washer Tub
Secured power and supply lines. Took off rear panel. Labeled all 5 electrical inputs to water valve. Could not get water valve out. Found the 5 hoses that were clamped to the 5 valve inputs by going head first into the washer. Did not order the clamps!!!! Even if we had, we couldn't figure out how to access them. Called appliance guys who
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installed valve and clamps.
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Parts Used:
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Margaret from NORFOLK, VA
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Difficulty Level:Very Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
4 of 4 people
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