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Model numbers can be made up of numbers (1005400, for example) or a combination of letters and numbers (LAT1000AAE). The model number will most likely appear on either a paper sticker or a metal plate. Your appliance's model number tag may look similar to the sample model number tags shown here (model number highlighted in yellow):
JGRS14BEW3BB General Electric Wall Oven - Overview
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It is possible that your oven is cold because of a fault in the temperature sensor. The temperature sensor regulates oven temperature in modern ranges, like a thermostat. It is on the back wall near t...
$37.95
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives in 2-3 business days!
This is a black outer door glass designed by GE exclusively for wall ovens. Functioning as an efficient outer heat shield for the oven door, it ensures safe and effective cooking. Before beginning the...
$90.11
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives in 2-3 business days!
This part has been substituted from the original. It may look different, but should still function the same. The wiring is different and it is recommended to be installed by a repair person.
Order now and your part arrives in 2-3 business days!
Questions And Answers for JGRS14BEW3BB
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ELTON
December 9, 2023
i AM RECIEVING F3 CODE ON PANEL. i BELIEVE IT IS TEMP. SENSOR. WHAT PARTICULAR ONE DO I NEED AND IS IT SOMETHING I CAN DO MYSELF?
For model number JGRS14BEW3BB
Hello Elton, thank you for your inquiry. When the F3 code flashes on your oven, this indicates that there is a fault with the oven temperature sensor, part number PS236043. An ohmmeter can be used to test the resistance of the temperature sensor. The resistance of the sensor should read approximately 1080–1090 ohms at room temperature. You should also test the wire harness for any possible problems or loose wires. We hope this helps, good luck with the repair!
My oven will not start. It shows a F3 code. Does it need another igniter?
For model number JGRS14BEW3BB
Hi Roberta, thank you for reaching out. Based on our research, the error code F3 indicates that there is a failure somewhere along the temperature sensor. You may not need to replace the igniter. We would recommend replacing the temperature sensor, part number PS236043, to fix the issue. We hope that helps!
This repair is EASY if you know how to use an ohm meter. If not, seek help for this step.
SYMPTOM: The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was
... Read more about 150 degrees to low.
FAILURE POINTS: There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.
REPAIR: As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!
Pull oven from the wall: - Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position. - Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off) - Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling - The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.
As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed, - Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws) - Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit) - Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board). - Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.
Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY... - 1.02K ohms in ice water - 1.09K ohms at room temperature - 1.36K ohms in boiling water. If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.
If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board. - Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant. - Carefully remove the wires one at a time - VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board. -- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector. - Remove the controller board (4 screws) - Install new controller board (4 screws) - VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side. -- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then, -- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then -- Press down on the connector locking tabs. - Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board. -- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter. - Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires. - Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.) - Re-install top cover. - Re-install service connect cover.
You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet, - Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place. - Flip power breaker to "On". - Test that oven gets to the desired temp.
at first thought the seal would just slide out and the same for the replacement. when I realized that this was not the case and began to wonder what....? I saw the screws at top and bottom, took them off and voila the inner shell moved forward enough to take out the old, slide in the new, push in, replace the screws and back to a happy w
... Read moreife with an oven that can bake correctly again
