KUIS18PNZB2 KitchenAid Ice Maker - Instructions

Pull out old module...
Remove 2 wires...
Tape to inside wall [don't want them to fall down into side panel]..

Order new switch..

Fed Ex pkg came on 2nd day..

Install wires on switch...
Press into opening...
Check door light on..[OK]
.. Done

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

The water filled on startup (actually over-filled, which was a clue). After that water was used to make ice, no new water came in so the recirculation pump just made whining noises in the mostly empty reservoir. Since water could come in (on start up) I reasoned it wasn't the water inlet valve, and everything else suggested the ice maker was getting inaccurate info about how much water was in the reservoir. Turns out, the water recirculation pump has a water level sensor built in. So while the pump itself still functioned, the water level sensor inside had gone bad. Replacing the pump fixed the issue. There are videos online that show how to accomplish that, but it was pretty straight-forward. The dis-assembly was sometimes irritating because it's hard to see and maneuver around inside. It'll help if you put the machine closer to eye level. Pay close attention to videos that show the disassembly because there are a couple of tabs that are hard to find.

I'm an hvac/r technician, and regularly work on ice machines. Begin my pulling the white over beneath the control panel. It snaps in place so pull on the bottom then left out. 1/4 nut driver is all you need, and remove the screw holding the bin thermistor clip to the side. Up to the right , beneath the control panel, behind the plastic panel you previously removed is the mollex connector. Unplug the thermistor and follow instructions in reverse to reinstall.

Popping out the broken switch was easy once I was able to see how the new switch part was engineered. The switch was made to be replaced, having a simple tension hook on the bottom of the switch which needed to be depressed to pull the switch out of the cabinet. Once pulled out, there were modular plugs for the power line that were easy to pull off the broken switch and plug into the new switch. Pop the new switch back in and VOILA, the lights worked again! Thanks to part select's good diagrams of the actual model of my refrigerator, it was very easy to hone in on the exact part I needed. I did notice one problem with the order as the correct series for the part was displayed earlier in the process, but had the wrong series later in the process. However,. I trusted the system and the part is for the right series and fit well (an exact match, down to the color). Thanks Part Select, I would definitely use you again.

By sliding athin screwdriver blade down the side of the old switch the expasion prong that hold the switch in place was compressed enough to allow the switch to come out easlily. Plugged in new swithc and snapped in place. Plugged the refrigerator back in and light has worked great sense!

(1) Slide out appliance and remove power source. (2) Removed lower access cover on rear of refrigerator. (3) Disconnected plug to the condenser fan motor. (4) remove blades by pulling gently forward (5) remove mounting hardware holding the fan motor (3 screws) (6) motor is now free and new motor can be installed

Truth is, this took a couple hours of cursing, but that was due to poor information and no prior experience. I imagine the next one would take 20 minutes. The issues are these: videos tell you to use a putty knife to pry the old switch out. That is harder than it seems because each switch has a plastic spring that pops open to hold the switch on, and you can't access the spring when the switch is installed. So it is important to use the knife on the side of the switch (left or right of spring -- look at the new switch), and back and forth until the switch is worked out. Then it can get worse. The new switch has to plug in electrically before it can be installed mechanically. In my case, with the switch on the fridge wall rather than the top, the outlet for the plug was encased in foam insullation. That gives the appearance that the plug was fixed, immovable, which makes it impossible to plug it in electrically before the switch is in place, and of course once it is in place you can't then plug it in. The problem here was poor instructions. Just scrape out a lot of the foam around the plug and you find that the plug is really not fixed, but attached to reasonably long wires that allow you to plug it in with the switch a couple inches from the wall, and then insert the switch. None of the online instructions tell you this about the wires.

Pull cover off in front of ice tray and ice grid cutter to make easy to get at temperature sensor wire connector. remove connection plug to temperature sensor remove screw on side of ice bin that holds sensor in position.
Put sensor in a class of ice 32 degrees and measured resistance read 6.2K should of been read 8.7K Ordered a new Temperature sensor from partselect.com . Installed in 5 min working like a champ again.
The instructions book call the part I need a Bin Thermister instead off temperature sensor.

Killed the power to the fridge. Then, used a small, thin screwdriver to depress the clip on the bottom of the switch and wriggled the old switch out. The two wires easily came off the contacts with pliers. Connected the wires to the new switch and snapped it into the hole--clip facing down and contacts facing up. Turned the power back on and checked the switch. Worked perfectly! Easy job.

Tools needed:
- 1/4 inch nut driver or socket & ratchet (or wrench... depending on what you have available.)
- Optional: Flashlight and mirror

1 - I turned the power off.
2 - Grabbing the bottom of the cover (above the ice bin) with both hands, I pulled sharply toward me and the cover was free.
3 - I used the nut driver to remove the screw holding the thermistor in place against the wall of the ice bin.
4 - I used the flashlight and mirror to confirm the placement of the connector.
5 - Used my index finger to depress the locking clip and gently pulled the connector downward.
6 - I attached the new thermistor to the ice bin wall using the nut driver.
7 - I threaded the connector up to the control board and pushed it into place. (This step was the most difficult for me... I had to use the mirror to confirm that I was properly aligned.)
8 - Turned on the power (and shut off the "FAST ICE" option -- may not be available on all ice maker models).
9 - I scooped out a gallon of ice for my tea maker.
10 - A few hours I checked the bin level to confirm that the ice maker was behaving.

All in all, a very simple repair and certainly beats paying someone $200 or $300 for a five minute job.

Replaced thermistor u

Couldn't figure out how to get the old one out till I saw the new one.Pop the old one out slide the 2 wires on the new one pop it back in place,good to go.

Popped out the old light switch with a butter knife from the bottom first, disconnected the plug in. Install was just the reverse. Super easy fix

I noticed the coils very dusty dirty, tried brushing it clean, ended up blowing it clean. I noticed the condenser fan motor was never turning, I had power, so I ordered a new one. I actual received the evaporator motor, so I had to order the correct one. After changing it, and it started blowing right away. But my refrigerator is still warm. I do not know where the evaporator blower motor is located. I cannot make out from the diagram breakdown. HELP