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Model numbers can be made up of numbers (1005400, for example) or a combination of letters and numbers (LAT1000AAE). The model number will most likely appear on either a paper sticker or a metal plate. Your appliance's model number tag may look similar to the sample model number tags shown here (model number highlighted in yellow):
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This OEM filter measures 2.5 inches deep, 12.5 inches high, 5 inches wide and roughly 1.5 lbs. It is recommended to replace this filter every six months or 300 gallons, whichever comes first. If you n...
$76.95
In Stock
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This part is the replacement water line or tube for your refrigerator. It is made of white plastic and is sold individually. This tube supplies water to the ice maker and water dispenser If your refri...
$29.86
In Stock
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This part is the replacement water line for your refrigerator. It is a long plastic tube, which is 5/16 of an inch in diameter. If your refrigerator is leaking, or if it will not dispense water or ice...
$29.86
In Stock
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This is a micro switch for various models of LG refrigerators. This switch is responsible for turning the ice dispenser on and off within the freezer compartment of the fridge. If this switch is damag...
$29.86
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Turn to the LG brand for your appliance needs with the genuine OEM Stopper Assembly, Door. This highly efficient door stop protects your refrigerator and surrounding cabinets from potential damage. It...
$29.86
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This ice maker assembly is a genuine OEM replacement unit for LG refrigerators. It is responsible for producing and dispensing ice cubes. You can find the ice maker assembly inside the freezer compart...
Order now and your part arrives in 2-3 business days!
Questions And Answers for LRSC26930SW
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Bobbi
January 28, 2023
How do I get to the water line for the water dispenser
For model number LRSC26930SW
Hello Bobbi, thank you for the question. The water dispenser plastic tubing for your model is part number PS3631122. Here are some instructions on how to access it: 1. Remove the filter - 1 screw at top of the filter and pull it out. 2. Use a crescent wrench to push down the tube inlet and pull the tube out. 3. Remove the bottom screen from the refrigerator. 4. Use a crescent wrench to push down the water inlet and pull out the tube. 5. Route a new line on the back of the refrigerator. 6. Install is the reverse of removal. We hope this helps, good luck with this repair.
Detected noise as coming from top freezer department, and tips and part diagram clearly pointed to evaporator fan. You go in through the freezer (you have to empty top half of freezer); removing the side rails holding the ice bin, and then the 4 outer screws (only 2 each side - not the middle ones) holding the 'auger' that turns the bin
... Read more. From there it gets interesting in trying to disconnect the wires. You might consider taking some pictures of the connected wires - perhaps it doesn't matter, but several of them can be hooked up in reverse. After the ice marker is out, remove light and light cover, side rails/mounts that hold hold up ice maker. This leaves a large white cover that pops out (seam at bottom of it has two tabs that you can pop out) holding the fan; and then only a few more wires to disconnect to be able to get at the fan. Mine clearly had a wobble to it confirming the source of the squeak and need to replace. Install was just reverse -- a bit tricky to get some of the wires connected given the tight spaces. Overall, not difficult - but a lot of wires and screws to connect/disconnect. I didn't take any pictures as I disassembled, and found myself having to take some extra time to figure it out as I reassembled. In the end -- a silent and functioning refrigerator Good luck!
This is bottom drawer type frige. Icemaker is inside (not in the door) and hard to reach. I first tested the solenoids by disconnecting them and using a test cord, energized them independent of the frige wiring. They worked ok. Note: this frige has (2) solenoids going to the icemaker. And it has (3) solenoids serving the water disp
... Read moreenser. The icemaker solenoids are wired in parallel. I removed the icemaker by removing (1) screw from the bottom and loosening (2) on the top. Then removed icemaker as a complete unit disconnecting the wire connector at the same time. On the bench I tested the icemaker to verify it was defective. The wire harness has a 10 amp fuse in the black wire (hot wire). `The fuse was blown. This was sufficient to indicate the icemaker is shot. I did however, do some other tests. Cold resistance of the mold heater was 72 ohms. The timer motor was 4000 ohms. These measurements should be ok. I then activated the icemaker with a test cord, bypassing the blown fuse. The unit cycled one complete rotation then stopped. The mold heater worked. I tested the amp draw on the mold heater and it was only .1 amps. I should be a about .8 amps. I then cycled it again and then the timer motor began to sizzle and smell. Then it smoked and stopped mid-rotation. I then purchased a new icemaker. I believe the mold heater was going bad over time as this unit made ice but very slowly. This put extra strain on the motor as the mold was not releasing quickly. This damaged the motor causing it to fail.
