WFW92HEFW0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Removed the top (3-4 screws at back). Flowmeter has 2 hoses with hose clamps. Removed with plyers. Simple electrical connector removed.

Reversed procedure. Running perfect now.

How did I know it was the flow-meter? Read the service manual as possible causes to narrow it down. Disassembled old flowmeter and cleaned. That fixed for awhile. Problem came back, could 'tap' on flowmeter to temporarily fix. This convinced me that was indeed the problem.

The flowmeter is just a simple vane that moves as water flows across it, and sends pulses each time it rotates. If it 'sticks' then the computer doesn't think any water is coming in - hence the error. Tapping on it would 'unstick' long enough to confirm problem.

First some background. The door locked up the first time when appliance was less than one year old. The "Maytag Repairman" finally succeeded in getting the door open after propping up the front of the machine and fumbling around underneath for a period of time and then assured me the problem was solved. The problem recurred less than a year later, and I called another repairman who seemed to have an easier time of it, and charged $293.42 to replace the water level switch. About six months later the same problem recurred and I took the cover off the top of the machine and found there a booklet "For Service Technician's Use Only". VERY HELPFUL. Told how extremely easy it was to unlock door - took about five seconds. Replacing the switch itself involved pulling one tubing off and disconnecting one elec connection from old switch and replacing on new switch. Total cost $50 plus a few dollars for shipping.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Turned washer on its side. Pulled the bottom plate off. Then unplugged the electrical lines. Then unbolted the drain pump and bolted the new drain pump in. Then reversed the process.

remove 3 screws of top panel at rear. slide top to rear 1/2 inch and lift up. disconnect wire to flometer, remove clamps on hoses and remove, reverse to install. did not fix problem. ck'd screens at fill valves. ordered new fill valves--problem solved. solenoids must not have been opening up all the way.

Serviceman had previously replaced the hot and cold inlet valves, but the low pressure error persisted. Rather than cough up another $130 for the serviceman to return, plus parts and time, I decided to order the replacement flowmeter from PartSelect.

Unplug power and turn off water. Top of machine comes off by removing three screws at top rear; use socket, spanner or T20 driver. Unplug electric sensor from flowmeter. Old unit is removed, and new one connected to water line by squeezing spring-clips with a pair of flat nose pliers. Reconnect electric sensor.

Great move, easy, and saved myself the thick end of $200.

Disconnect water lines and drain lines, unplug unit.
Remove top panel of washer to access the door release, one open remove any clothes and use the shop vac to capture water from the drum. Close the door after sucking up water.
Move washer to access back panel and remove 1/4 screws.
Lay washer on its side and disconnect the power supply to the pump.
Remove the 4 bolts hold the pump to the unit. While removing the pump, use the shop vac to catch any remaining water in the washer.
After old pump is removed place new pump in unit and attach bolts to secure the pump to the washer. Connect the electrical plug to the pump.
Place the unit in the upright position and put the back panel back on the washer.
Place the top panel back on the washer.
Reconnect water lines and turn the water on.
Connect drain line and plug unit in. Once unit is back in position. Turn on unit and wash as normal.

Using the Torx Screwdriver, we removed the door from the unit. Then we removed all of the screws on the inside of the washer door. After that we flipped it over and opened it up exposing the inside. We couldn't separate them entirely because there was a screw under the latch piece that we couldn't figure out how to get to. However with all the screws out on the inside of the door, we did have enough room to open it up and access the place cover that holds the hinges in. Once we accessed that we removed the roller tips from the old unit and placed them on the new one. Then we reversed the process. With a couple screws in we realized we had put the hinge in reversed from what it needed to be, so we reopened it and switched it around. Then completed replacing all the screws and reattached it to the washer. It opens and closes perfectly and we saved a couple hundred dollars for sure, as the quote to come out had been a $150 trip charge.

Watch a video about replacing this latch which made it very simple to do. Performed exactly as the video instructed.

Brother who used to sell appliances opened the washer door and read the booklet inside the washer telling him the part necessary to repair the problem. $33/00 for the water flow meter Part and shipped in next morning and arrived overnight. Excellent service for only $7.00 shipping. Highly recommend this place for parts. This was after a couple of days searching the internet for those with the same problem and not receiving and exact part to fix the problem

Cleaned all hoses and filter with no success in the washer draining. So ordered drain pump and removed four bolts and the drain hose and the pump was off. Reversed the process with new pump and it’s good as new.

My washer started flashing the code E1-F9 one day mid-cycle and locked the clothes inside. Google suggested this could be a pump filter issue and I tried at first to clean out the filter as suggested. (on this model, you have to take the back off to reach the filter.) This didn't solve the problem, but since I could now clearly see how it pumped, I noticed nothing was pumping out through the hose and bought the pump part.
This is an easier job if you can tip the entire washer on its side and haven't set it up as a stacked unit (which I had). Disconnect all power sources first and the outflow hose. Two of the four bolts that need to come off are in the front and all of them needed a drill's power to pull them out. For at least three of the bolts I'd recommend an extension on the drill bit, but I didn't have room for this since I tipped the entire stacked unit on its side.
After that, I was done in less than 10 minutes and the bolts drilled in formed the seal so it didn't leak. It worked and it's pumping.
But! This model seems to have a lot of other issues. Mine will only work on Heavy load without flashing other error codes, and it never washes in the fabric softener... that just sits there.

Maytag Washer MHW5100DW

Symptom: front loader door won't open

Error code at the beginning of a wash cycle: F5 E3 means your door latch isn't working properly which is why the door won't open.

1) First try to reset the electronics:

..... Power unit down by unplugging for one (1) minute.
..... Power unit up by reconnecting power.
..... Restart a new cycle.

Result: the door remained locked with the same error code.

2) Next manually unlock the door to see if the lock will reset and work normally again.

..... Power unit down by unplugging.
..... Remove the 3 screws holding the top cover attached to the
back.
..... Lift the top cover slightly to disengage and pull back 6 inches.
..... Use a flashlight to see the positioning of the door lock and the
manual plastic unlock tab on top.
..... Wiggle your arm down through the narrow opening on top and
pull up on the small plastic pull tab to unlock the door.
..... Power unit up by reconnecting power.
..... Restart a new cycle.

Result: the door remained locked with the same error code.

3) Finally, replace the lock assembly

..... Power unit down by unplugging.
..... Wiggle your arm down through the narrow opening on top and
pull up on the small plastic pull tab to unlock the door.
..... With the door now open, remove the wire spring retaining ring
around the rubber door gasket. On either side of the spring is a
place to grab it with needle nose pliers to assist in removing it.
..... Remove the 2 screws holding the lock assembly to the front
panel.
..... Pull back the gasket slightly near the lock assembly and
unplug the 2 electrical connections to the lock assembly.

..... Replace the lock assembly.
..... Pull back the gasket slightly near the lock assembly and plug
the 2 electrical connections to the lock assembly.
..... Use the 2 screws to attach the lock assembly to the front panel.
..... Attach the spring retaining ring around the door gasket. On
either side of the spring is a place to grab it with needle nose
pliers to assist in installing it. I also used a vise grip pliers to
help hold the spring retaining ring in place as I stretched the
spring. This step was the biggest problem for me and consumed
the most time.
..... Attach the top cover with the 3 holding screws
..... Power unit up by reconnecting power.
..... Restart a new wash cycle.

Result: the lock test cycle completed with no error codes and the wash cycle started normally.

After finding the correct part, I watched a video Parts Select had posted showing how to replace it. Things went smoothly. Took my time and was careful and now the washing machine is running just fine again. Neede a 5'16" hex wrench and I used a drill with hex attached to remove the back of the washing machine. Went smoothly. Watch the video!

An easy job- hardest part was moving the machine away from the wall - ours is stacked with dryer on top.

Once we pulled it away from the wall:
1) remove back cover with a screwdriver (I used a driver to make this easier)
2) unclamp the drain hose from drain pump and drain excess water into a shallow pan
3) unplug the electrical connection from drain pump
4) use a wrench to remove the 4 hex screws holding the drain pump to the drum
5) pull down the drain pump from drum
6) repeat above in reverse to install new pump