WM3900HWA (ABWEUUS) LG Washer - Instructions

Pull washer away from wall. Unplug cord and remove drain hose from receptacle. Remove 4 screws holding panel to rear of washer. Squeeze and slide back hose clamps on each end of drain hose and loosen center clamp with screwdriver. Remove old hose. Reinstall new hose in reverse order using existing clamps. Re-install back panel.

Wife called me and said the washing machine just flooded the Landry room. I looked at it and didn't see anything wrong. Took the top off and the back off and started looking for a leak, did not see anything. Took the front part of the washer apart thinking the drain hole was plugged up where the rubber boot is. It was ok after taking the big rubber boot off or whatever that is called i was not getting anywhere. I put it back together left the top and the back off. I turned the water on and started the washer on a quick cycle looking for a leak. I found the bellows at the inlet had a small leak fixed that and started the washer again. So what i found out was the clean out drain plug was not in tight letting water out as it was washing after i tightened it all was ok. So i did find a leak that was small that we never saw. The hardest part was putting that wire clamp on the rubber boot it took two people to do that.

I removed the Wire and spring from the tub seal and then removed the seal on the side of the washer that contains the Door switch. I removed the two screws that held the door switch in place while holding the switch with my other hand. Once the screws where out I pulled the switch assembly out thru the gap and removed the wires from old assembly. I then plugged the wires into the new assembly aligned the holes up and put the screws back in the new door switch assembly. I then put the door seal and tub seal holder back on. This took about 15 minutes. I do recomend that you unplug the washer before starting this process.

Installed correctly but PartsSelect sent WRONG part, but part number on bag was correct. Installation of WRONG part fried the main board. A $100 fix is now costing me about $1300.00 for technician service and new unit. I asked PartsSelect to help with cost since outcome is due to their error. Totally unsatisfied. Will not suggest company to other DIYers.

2 hose clamps and a hose, easy! This would be a very common cause of leaks in washers due to all the movement inside.

To put the new spring on requires two people. One to pull the drum up as far as possible and hold it in place and the other to attach the spring to the drum and the into the slot on the side of the washer frame. It takes a lot of leverage and strength to get the spring into the slot. We used a screw driver as leverage to get the spring extended to slip into the slot. You might also need the plastic holder part# 4930FR3040A. If the washer door boot has come off due to spring breaking, you will need to reset it. That requires also removing front panel. There is a large wire ring that holds the boot in place. You either need a special pair of pliers to expand the spring to reset the boot or a lot of strength to do it with a couple screw drivers.

removed top and front. heater is at the base of the tub. the nut compresses the rubber seal and may take some wiggling to remove the old one.

I already had the top of the washer open, from previous disassembly to clean the front loader seal, and when I ran a trial load, noticed a small 1/4" tear in the hose bellows that attaches to the drum.

Very simple repair, remove the existing hose by loosening the clamps, paying attention to their orientation. Install the existing hose clamps onto the new hose, install and tighten the hose clamps.

5 minute job, if the washer top is off (which is also simple).

Super straightforward to diagnose and repair.

There was puddle under the washer.

I removed the top (screws in rear, slide top toward rear slightly and lift) and followed the trail of water up to the top washer hose between the drum and detergent tray.

Two hose clamps to remove and replace, then replace the top and ready to go.

We replaced the three dampers, two in the front and one in the back. We referred to the YouTube video someone posted on this page.

Watched videos but didn’t show the clamp had to be placed on counterclockwise

Remove old one and replace. Just make sure it is all the way on and secure or you will have a huge mess on your hands.

Removed the old bellows (2 squeeze hose clamps and one screw adjustable hose clamp) slid on the new one and it was done!

Did the repair entirely from the back.- 4 screws back cover comes off. Once you see the Bellows it is obvious what needs to come off and there are other videos on the net showing this. The main things I did differently were 1) Leaned the washer forward and placed 3 2x4 blocks of wood under each back leg. This allowed me to reach under the washer with one hand, and through the back with the other. You need both hands in there ! 2) Uninstalling is easy with just pliers. But on the way back in, I used a pair of Locking Pliers to keep the circular clamp squeezed as much as possible. That seemed the only way to get the bellows back in. Another option would be to switch to screw on Pipe clamps instead of the spring clamps.

Took off the old one and put the other one on. The only difficulty was that my husband has big hands and had a hard time getting to one end.