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WSM2700DAWWW General Electric Washer Dryer Combo - Overview
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The lower front felt seal with adhesive, also known as a drum felt seal, is used in dyers and allows the drum to easily glide on the front panel. For this repair project, you will need the following t...
Introducing the GE Dryer Drum Bearing! This genuine replacement part is the ultimate solution for enhancing your dryer's performance. It is ideal for supporting the drum as it spins, offering stabilit...
Introducing the Genuine GE Appliances Drive Belt, a crucial component for your washing machine. Known as the V-Belt, it expertly bridges the connection between the drive motor and the machine's drive ...
Experience smooth operation with this genuine Dryer Felt Seal from GE. This product is designed to allow your dryer drum to glide effortlessly on the front panel, promising a quieter, more efficient p...
This hi-limit thermostat acts as a safety mechanism that keeps the dryer from overheating. With this thermostat, a dryer's heating element will cut out if the internal temperature reaches 260 degrees...
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12 questions answered by our experts.
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Linda
March 14, 2020
How do you access heating element
For model number WSM2700DAWWW
Hello Linda, thank you for your question. This unit is accessed by removing the front panel and top and removing the drum of the unit. I hope this helps.
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Bob
June 26, 2021
The dryer works but will not shut off when timer runs out. Unit does stop when the door is opened
For model number WSM2700DAWWW
Hello Bob, Thank you for the question. This is normally an indication the Dryer Timer is defective and will need to be replaced. We hope this helps!
Hello Angela, thank you for the question. We have researched and found that your model is electric. We hope this information helps!
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Rendy
May 27, 2024
What is the solid state resistor on the dryer timer motor between two terminals on the motor used for?
For model number WSM2700DAWWW
Hello Rendy,
Thank you for writing in. The resistor is to regulate the electrical current to the timer. We hope this helps.
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Margaret
January 11, 2020
I need part that stop water from running when tub is filled with water so that it's won't keep overflowing
For model number WSM2700DAWWW
Hello Margaret,
Thank you for your question. Our sources suggest replacing the washer timer for your model under part PS269894 to fix the overflowing issue. We hope this helps!
About a year ago I had to replace the front sliders. I had thought at the time that I should replace the belt and check the rear bearing, but I was in a hurry, and the wash was backing up, so I didn't do it. Oops. Within 6 months dryer started squeaking. Did I get around to pulling it out, and greasing rear bearing. Nope. Dbl oops.
... Read morer /> Luckily on this model, everything is pretty basic, strong, and well made. The rear bearing after 9 years of constant use (5 person family)had simply run out of grease, and then worn into the plastic housing that holds the rear bearing. NOTE TO ALL -- probably too late if you're reading this -- but just grease your rear bearing by using a grease gun with high temp grease (car bearing grease works fine)through the small hole at back of dryer dead center of drum. It will take 5 min, and probably prevent the need for this repair, or delay it substantially.
Unplug dryer, turn off gas, and disconnect gas hose and duct hose. Inspect the latter two and consider repacing while you're at it. Move dryer to where you can get at front and back without cursing too much.
So...take a putty knife, and put a little masking tape around the blade if you're worried about scratching the finish on your dryer. If you're doing this repair, your dryer is probably at least as old as mine, and you can skip the tape and just bear with some small scratches.
Slide the putty knife into the groove between lid and front of dryer and pop up. (held by spring clips)
Now tip up lid and slide back, you may have to wrestle it a bit, or it may come off like a charm. Put it out of the way.
Take a sec to look at the interior wiring (you unplugged the dryer, right?) If you see any worn or raw spots, take some electrical tape and fix. Should be fine though. Take a vacuum and suck up any extraneous lint, dirt etc.
Tip dryer up slightly and block with wood or a brick. There are two screws at bottom -- undo these. IF they're missing, no worries, they're not critical. Put dryer back down.
Get a trouble light or a good lamp and shine ti wher you can see interior of dryer. There are two screws, one on each side on the INSIDE of the dryer, connecting the side panels to the front. Undo those. Put them in a little baggie and mark them "interior fr screws." I know, you're thinking "I can just remember them." But trust me, this way, you can't lose them or screw up. Now use the putty knife to pop the front panel off the sides. Do this gently, and don't yank the front way back, as the drum will drop. Oh, on mine there was a yellow plastic doohicky in the middle at top. Take that off too (one tiny screw) put the screw back in part way and stick the doohicky in the baggie.
OK, so the front panel should now be loose. It is still on a couple of little tabs at the bottom, which you prefer not to bend. So lift the front slightly and then back it out, while you (or preferably a helper) holds the drum so you can let it down gently. The front is attached to all sorts of wiring. You don't need to disconnect ANYTHING. THe front should be able to be moved away to the right like a door. Rest this up against something so as to not strain the wiring. On the front of the door are the felt and plastic sliders. If they look beat up or worn, replace them now -- or like me, you can do the job twice... That part is super simple...
Now, got back of dryer, there is a vent at back bottom. Remove three (or less) screws) and remove little door. Probably substantial lint here. Vacuum like crazy. The belt comes down around the drive pulley, and then up and over the idler pulley (to keep tension on belt. IF this feels loose/easy to move, replace the belt. In fact, if the belt is over 5 years old, replace the belt. (or when it breaks, you get to open everything again). Just unhook the spring and the idler will be loose and you can remove the belt off the pulleys -- it's now just around the drum. Slide the idler pulley off the stem
Removed 2 Hose clamps with pliers. Unplug power source from drain pump. Unscrew 2 mounting screws with 5/16" nut-driver then replace unit in reverse sequence...... Very simple.
