Admiral Washer Bearings

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Your Price

$43.83

Admiral Washer Transmission Pulley And Bearing Kit

★★★★★

17 Reviews

PartSelect Number PS2003651

Manufacturer Part Number 12002213

This transmission pulley and bearing kit, also known as thrust bearing kit or washer pulley and bearing kit, includes the pulley, washer, thrust bearing, two upper race washers, and one lower race washer. These genuine Whirlpool parts are plastic and are not sold individually. The kit is used to help the washer drain, and may need to be replaced if the washer is experiencing slow or no spin, will not drain, or has no agitation. The washer will need to be tilted on its back or side to access the bottom. The tools needed to complete this repair are a small flat blade screw driver and a pair of slip joint pliers.

Fixes these symptoms

Burning smell
Spinning Issues
Spins slowly
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Installation Instructions

James from Hueytown, AL

Washer tub would not spin, pump would empty water from tub.

Lay washer on front, removed belt. Removed center pulley with thrust bearing (pulley was worn on upper end, against thrust bearing, thrust bearing was worn also). Installed new thrust bearing & pulley kit. Cleaned & lubed slots that motor insulators slide in, installed new belt. Read more...

Your Price

$9.92

Admiral Washer Agitator Cam Bearing

★★★★★

1 Review

PartSelect Number PS11741241

Manufacturer Part Number WP3363661

Introducing the Whirlpool Agitator Cam Bearing, a genuine OEM part compatible with specific models from Whirlpool. This essential appliance part is perfect for ensuring a proper and smooth surface for your agitator cam to rotate on. Designed with precision, this bearing may slightly differ in size and shape compared to other parts but promises uncompromised quality and performance. The installation process is straightforward, though we advise you to unplug the washer before starting and to wear work gloves for protection. Trust in Whirlpool's commitment to durability and efficiency with this Agitator Cam Bearing. Please verify your model before order placement for perfect fit.

Fixes these symptoms

Will not agitate
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Installation Instructions

Craig from Polk City, FL

Washer not agitating

On top of the agitator is a flat cap that is held in place by the friction of an o-ring, there are no fasteners. I would imagine one could get under the lip with a small screwdriver or butter knife to pop it off but I chose simply using my fingernails so as to not disfigure the cap. Under the cap you will find the head of the only bolt that holds the assembly together it is a 7/16 head and because it is in a 4" deep well your will need a 6" extension for your ratchet. Once the bolt is out the top of the agitator, the assembly with the cogs removes by hand. Set the assembly upside down on the counter, slide the black plastic ring off, pull the cogs out with your fingertips, install the new cogs put a new black ring on and set the assembly back in the agitator. Reinstall bolt. As the bolt is down in a tube, you cannot set it in place with your fingers and it will fall out of the socket. To hold the bolt in the socket during positioning you can either put a gob of Vaseline on the bolt head to hold it in the socket or form a small piece of paper over the bolt head and set it into the socket, the friction of the paper will hold the bolt into the socket. Took me less then 10 minutes, good luck Read more...

Your Price

$10.42

Admiral Washer Spin Tube Bearing

★★★★★

1 Review

PartSelect Number PS11746369

Manufacturer Part Number WP8546462

This spin tube T-Bearing is an inch long. Sold individually.

Your Price

$87.60

Admiral Washer Centerpost Bearing And Seal Assembly

★★★★★

2 Reviews

PartSelect Number PS334447

Manufacturer Part Number 285203

This assembly comes with one transmission stem seal, two center post bearings, and three agitator shaft seals.

Fixes these symptoms

Leaking
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Your Price

$12.91

Admiral Washer Ring Thrust

PartSelect Number PS11743303

Manufacturer Part Number WP62658

Your Price

$9.92

Admiral Washer Bearing-driven Cam

PartSelect Number PS11744868

Manufacturer Part Number WP8055141

Fixes these symptoms

Will not agitate
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Your Price

$19.89

Admiral Washer Center Post Bearing

PartSelect Number PS11746366

Manufacturer Part Number WP8546455

Sold individually.

Your Price

$26.36

Admiral Washer Spin Bearing

PartSelect Number PS11741784

Manufacturer Part Number WP35-2205

Installation Instructions

john from BEACHWOOD, NJ

Original issue water in tub, replace belt, all fine but noisey like dry bearings.

After new belt, load dry bearing sound in spin cycle and brake squeal. Videos were very helpful, but limited. Thinking with new belt pulling pressure, it had to be bearings. Top bearing I was worried of possible water seal being disturbed ? 1 * Not so, the big top bearing sits alone under brake housing, but spent most time prying off with a wheel puller. Need like 10inch reach for puller. Has a plastic housing around it, that you have to pry on, but no damage seemed evident when done. This was the worse part ! 2 * Pulled springs, (with vise grips) water level hose,(fingers) and pump hose,(pliers and twist to free) removed motor (two 1/2 inch bolts and wires), then v belt. Tub/transmission all pulled out easy with front cover removed already. 3* Inverted, pop plastic cover, pry spring clip with screwdriver,(a little stubborn) and pulley pulls out easy. Now look good at the pulley inner part, it has to be adjusted when done, and instructions are not that clear. So here I will try to give a better clue. The instruction sheet shows the outer ring part with small inner space to tabs, and a bigger space to tabs. The larger 2/3 tab swing space is the control setting area.. Inner part swings left and right around to the tabs, A small 1/3 area, and bigger 2/3 area. Looking at the large side, the outer ring has two exterior raised notch of plastic. If you twist the pulley CW looking down, until it hits the first left tab, this would be the start point for adjusting. Instructions state, the first outer notch is the "MIN" point, and the next notch (about an inch away) is the "MAX" point. When reassembling and WITH the washer &clip in the groove (use the old one and just push one side into the goove to temporary hold center shaft in place) Key is the pulley has to be turned CW, and needs the clip to hold shaft, as pressure is put on the lower brake spring. OK, clip holding, CW turn pulley until the left tab stop is hit, now slowly turn pulley CCW and watch when the shaft starts turning. Plastic inner part has a 3-d arrow formed in it close to the first exterior notch. Setting is to turn the CCW direction with the arrow moving in between the MIN /Max outer notch, before the shaft start to turn. Ideally in the middle of the two exterior notches. Instructions state this, but never said the clip had to be in place ! What happens is CW releases the brake spring for the brake on, CCW applies preasure to unlock the brake, and that should be about the middle of the notches on outer side of ring, when the shaft starts to turn. Two washers are with pulley/bearing kit, one is used depending oh where the middle arrow starts to turn shaft. Apply the grease as instructed. 4 * Brake use of three 10/24 bolts worked well, described by other reviews. Spring is 200 lb. rating, so an adult can push down for most of the movement. The screw turned out easy, and reassembly by pushing down some pressure and screwing in faster saves time. It is the distance of about 1.5x oem screw size that the spring preasure gets hard, so then just keep turning the screws 2-4 turns each, to press back into place. First brake cover plate was totally glazed at brake pad area. I replaced it, but could have possible just sanded it some. Next lower brake pad disc, showed lots of brake pad, Replaced it to since I bought the parts, but maybe just sanding a little would have been good too. 5 * If you pull the two brake parts out, underneath is the upper bearing that was the hard thing to pull off. Start Access by removing the three screws under the brake, and then the outer metal ring support screws.( set of three/two screws. 9/16 inch). Pull cover off and here is the big top bearing with the plastic support housing under it, with no room to move it away. A couple drops of oil in the inner ring, and wheel puller use, the bearing started to slide off easy abut half way off. 6 * All this done and my snubber ring was showing wear, so good idea I bought the new snubber ring and all six tub springs. 7 * Tub springs are a little tough, vise grips, wiggle yourself into position, and do the rear ones first. My washer had all the springs inserted CCW position, spring inserted into base on left side hole that is oval. A little grease on spring bottom loop as per video. 8 * Long story, easy two hours plus, but took my time, brake squeal is gone, tub seems a little less wobble in spin cycle, but still sounds like a dry bearing ! Now starting to think it is the motor bearings just transmitting the sound up the tub like a megaphone ? OEM bearings did not seem worn enough to be an issue. Top bearing is a standard ball bearing, and lower bearing is a thrust roller bearing. Parts so far cost almost half the price of a new washer ! Best of luck, tried to clear up some "what issues" ! Read more...