10656984603 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

First remove the ice container from the freezer
and dump all of the ice. Remove the four
screws holding the front ice container cover. Remove the control arm screw and bracket from the bottom of the ice container, remove crusher housing (screws and retainer clip). Remove nylon
bearing nut on front of auger shaft (left handed threads). Remove crusher blades and spacers (remember order of blades and spacers). Remove broken floating baffle. Replace baffle and reverse removal procedures.

removed the clip that the motor was attached too put the new motor back on reinstalled the clip back on the fridge plugged the wire harness in and works perfect now . it was easier to remove the clip than to try to install the motor by itself its just to tight and you cant get in there

The hardest part was getting the front cover plate off. I used two kitchen knifes one in each slot on the bottom of the plate and pried it off and unplug it. I removed one screw to release arm. I then used long nose pliers to remove the pin on door arm assemble. Then unplug door heater. New door has no heater. The heater had cooked the plastic arm, which caused the arm to fail. Then reassemble in reverse order.

Dog chewes up the original part. Got the replacement , put it on the filter turned to lock in place and tried tp pull out old filter ( same procedure has been done multiple times successfully) part broke instantly upon putting pressure tom pull out filter. Sent back to you the next day for replacement.

Linkage on the cold-control mechanism in the air diffuser assembly was broken. It was necessary to access the diffuser assembly from both the refrigerator and freezer sides of the unit.
Re-connected the linkage between the diffuser and cold-control assembly; remounted the two combined assemblies . . . refrigerator working nicely now.

I first removed the ice bin from freezer. There were four nut screws on back of ice bin cover that I removed with a screw driver, giving me access to the deflector. The deflector has two prongs that attach it securely to the ice bin, I used a phylips head screw driver to release the prongs from the deflector. I installed the new deflector by placing it through the bottom portion of deflector area, using the phyllips screw driver I engaged the prongs of the deflector into slots on ice bin. There was a hook on the back side of the deflector that went over a metal rod that controls the ice cube release. Then replace front cover of ice bin with the four nut screws and returned it to the ice maker location.

Followed instructions supplied. It was relatively easy and the parts fit exactly right. Sears wanted twice as much for the part and service would have charged me another $100 to come to my home. I saved over $100 doing the project myself.

It was easy, I followed the instructions on the paper and it went well.

I first went on line to trouble shoot. Discovered it was the Ice Maker itself then then I entered the part number in your system to purchase the ice maker unit. When the unit arrived I simply took a socket for three bolts unplugged the electrical connection and reversed this for the installation. It was simple. I described to my secretary the process and she told her husband who in turn replaced their icemaker.

Removal of the old assembly went quickly once I
understood about the "push and release" tubing
connectors. The exception was the connection from the water inlet assembly to the water filter which uses a different diameter connection at the inlet end, and would not "push and release".
So to install the new valves, I simply by passed
the old inlet assembly and used the extra push
splicer furnished in the kit for the water inlet to the
filter. All the other connections were easy push ins.
Next time will be 1/2 hour maximum!

I had falsely assumed that the ice maker control module was the problem, so I ordered a new one and replaced it. Still no ice. Upon closer examination of the whole unit, I noticed the heating element had a corroded spot, and checked it with a continuity tester, and found it was bad. I ordered a new complete ice maker unit, and it was actually easier to replace the whole unit rather than just the control module, and only cost about $20 more. I was able to return the control module for a full refund. I would highly recommend replacing the whole ice maker if it is not working, rather than just the control module. It is also handy to know that there are little "ports" on the control module for testing all the functions with a multi-tester. One for the motor marked with an "M", "T" for thermostat, "H" for heater, "N" for neutral. Had I known all this from the start, it would have saved me a lot of time and trouble replacing the wrong part!

Water leaking from under refrigerator. Initially believed leak was from filter assembly. Removed filter and shut off water supply but leak appeared at different intervals again. Large puddle of water coming out from under refrigerator. Removed back lower panel and checked for leak, but didn't find any. My wife was also checking for leak and found a crack in drip tray. Only way we could get the drip tray out was to first remove front lower panel, disconnect and remove wiring harness in front of drip tray, unbolt water filter assembly, and unbolt water solenoid unit at rear of refrigerator. Their water lines connect to filter assembly. My wife controlled the water solenoid unit to give me play as I pulled the filter assembly out as much as I could from the front. I could now wiggle the cracked drip tray out from under the filter unit. Replaced drip tray and reinstalled wiring harness, water filter unit w/new filter, and re-bolted water solenoid unit at back of refrigerator. Replaced back lower panel after turning water back on and checking for leaks. Replaced front lower panel.

The reason still had leak after initially turning off water supply was because the drip tray is used to catch the water when refrigerator goes into the defrost cycle. Since the original drip tray had cracked, water only appeared on floor after defrost cycle.

Repair was easy and producing ice within five hours.

I removed the screws on the upper hinge and removed the door. I removed the lower cam in about 2 minutes and had it replaced. The upper cam was a tight fit in the door and I resorted to vise-grips to remove it. Total time to replace cams and put the door back on was 30 minutes. This saved me $100.
Thanks

Easy as pie, I followed the directions on the box that the replacement filter came in, and installed it and the cap simply and easily.