1068490032 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

Reviewed Youtube video as a reference. Unplugged refrigerator. Removed old defrost timer. Matched the color of the wiring harness to the diagram that came with the part. Attach new part to wiring harness.

I followed the directions given in the video.

Repair video was excellent but thermostat unit was slightly different then original. Fortunately guessed right regarding connections. Also very difficult to place the insulating plastic on wiring. Not very smooth. Also removing panel was different then in video. Needed to remove the panel to reveal two screws underneath that need to be removed along with the ones at the ceiling.

Very easy. Left the front of the refrigerator so it is approx. 4 inches of the floor. (used a two by four. Removed the screws (one for each roller). Removed the rollers and replaced with new rollers. Reinstalled the screws with secures the rollers to the refrigerator. Done

just as the installation video show (very helpful) however the sheath tube that was pulled off of the old capillary tube did not go back on the new tube near as easy as the video showed. Got it on however and refrigerator is working like a champ now

Important: Do not twist broken stud to remove if possible, just pull with the pliers straight out. I twisted it and made the hole larger. Even so, I just used Gorilla Epoxy glue to secure the new one (follow directions on the package) and it's fixed. It's been a couple days and still looks secure. Thanks for the quick delivery.

replaced tsat

Followed instructions from ideoo

Just followed the Video I found on your site. Seems to work good now, took awhile to get temp setting correct (had to set it a little colder about half way between the "b" and "c" setting).

Followed instructions in video.

your video made it very easy...Thank You

Replaced the capacitor per your video. Tested and the problem persisted. Next replaced the thermostat per your video. Tested and the unit functions properly. The challenge was the connector locations on the new thermostat were different than the original. Front and back instead of top and bottom. I could not find an answer for wire installation. So I guessed and placed the double red wires on the spade closest to the door and the single orange wire on the rear spade. It worked this way and I did not try it the other way. Fridge is working and my wife is happy. Regards, Ricky

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.