1106090299 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

I removed 5 screws from the back of the top panel, removed the back panel, removed the start button from front of dryer, twisted the old start switch from the back, removed the two leads, reinstalled new part in reverse order. It was that simple! 15 minutes top. Dryer works fine. Gave me a chance to vacuum out all the dust bunnies and clean out the dryer vent pipe as well.
Thanks!

Unfortunately it is not easy to get to this part due to the fact the control panel is attached to the top of the dryer by both plastic clips and screws. I was able to bend the back down in the back to gain access to the two screws that held the dryer timer in place. This job is much easier if you have an assistant to hold the thin tin or steel backing away from the control panel while reconnecting the wire sensors to the new timer. This is the second time I have used Parts Select they are excellent and their prices are very competitive. The part was identical to the broken part. I saved at least $100 by doing the job myself.

I looked up the procedure to remove the switch in a repair book, removed the broken switch. Then I reconnected the wire leads, put the part in and closed everything up. The part arrived so quickly and there were even instructions with the part which made the repair go so easily.

First I tried a new switch, This did not fix the problem. Then I replaced the Fuse in the back of the unit.

My dad was ready to spend $2000 on a new washer/dryer (he has to have a matching set!). Anyway, his dryer would not generate heat. A google search turned up partselect.com, which walked me through the procedure to see what we needed.

It turned out to be a simple to replace $25.00 part! The dryer is drying as if it was brand new. Saved $1,975. Hehe.

Thanks, partselect!

I had already taken the coil out of the heating housing to check for a break in the heating element. I took this time to vacuum out all the lint inside the cabinet. I slid the new coil into the housing and reattached the wires. Plugged the dryer back in and turned it on to make sure the coil heated up. It worked so I put all the screws back in and fastend the front back on and were in bussiness!

Removed the back panel and saw that the idler pulley was worn out. It only took me 5min. To replace, it was very easy to replace.

Dryer would not start when the start switch was pushed. I was advised by the local repair shop to replace the "push to start switch" and the "thermal fuze". I unplugged the dryer and removed the back dryer casing which took all of 3 minutes. I removed the start switch and thermal fuze using directions on the whirlpool parts forum. This took maybe 5 minutes. I replaced with the new parts and put the casing back on the dryer. The entire project took 15 minutes. The dryer works perfectly. 34 USD for parts and shipping instead of 600 for a new dryer. Easy to identify the parts needed using the model number and the parts arrived the next morning I will use this company again for sure!

Took off back of dryer Undid belt from belt adjuster pulled and took off adjuster put new one on redid belt and put back on dryer. Done

I saw some videos suggesting you remove the back panel.Then I saw a video where only the kick plate was removed and the element was removed that way.
I removed both the back panel and kick plate.At first I thought I was wasting my time however once I got started I was glad I removed both back and front.
There was a significant amount of lint in the bottom of the dryer which made it easier to remove.
It also made it easier to remove the heater element.
I hope this helps.

I noticed that drying time was increasing. I took the covers off the dryer to reach the fan and discovered that the squirrel cage fan buckets were packed with lint, and therefore not moving the air as intended. This was because the original lint filter caught most of the lint, but some bypassed the lint filter and then built up in the fan wheel buckets. The lint bypassed the lint filter because there was no felt gasket on the original filter as far as I can tell. I replaced the lint filter...and the replacement filter includes the felt seal (and fits tightly in the slide). The original lint filter has a provision for the felt seal, but I don't recall ever seeing it (and I did not see remnants of it in the fan or duct). As a matter of fact, I was always suspicious of how loosely the lint filter fit in the slide. The felt seal is not available as a replacement part from Maytag. That said, felt material 3/16"x1/2"x10ft is available from McMaster-Carr...and it fits nicely in the original lint filter.

unplugged from elect power.took off front lower panel.removed heater heat shield w/1/4 in nut driver,could see heat element. it looks like at thin metal twisted phone cord. i used a continuity tester to establish if there was a break in it. there was. i removed 2 1/4in screws on the right side of the element,marked wire placement slid out old element & slid in new one put screws back in connected wires,put heat shield back on . tested dryer ,ok good to go put on front cover.!!!!! PS sears parts wanted 15$ more

My husband said it was very easy and quick. We will recomend your site for sure.

removed the catch and the pin and replaced it. We were sent a couple different sizes so we tested the one that looked like the closest match. I think the pin was made with different thicknesses of metal. Worked great and saved us from having to get a new dryer!

Replaced the thermastat first, then the cutoff switch, still the same, I then replaced the thermister, and still have the problem.