11067086600 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

1 screw to replace.

Followed video instructions using flat scraper & pliers (easy).Tried to remove "SPARE" latch on other side of door. Even removed door myself (Easy).Tried for (45) minutes without success. Ordered part @ 11:30 pm. Replaced door easily by myself by leaving bottom screw for each hinge in place & replaced broken latch. Received new latch in (5) days. Removed broken latch without tools & replaced new latch in (15) seconds. Need help from any "Ladies" who can remove second latch so it is available for next replacement. This "Engineer" was too lazy to remove the screws around the door because he was going to "Follow the Video". Overall it was an "Easy Fix". Keep the 'Videos"coming.

Took back panel of dryer off completely disconnected the drive belt to drum of dryer took off old idler pulley reinstall the new pulley and belt works like a brand new dryer

I was not able to find a video (or other specific instructions) that showed how to access the insides of this particular machine, but eventually figured out that all it takes is popping 2 clips, one on either side of the door by wedging a flathead screwdriver in the space between the top of the machine and the bottom piece that surrounds the door opening. The top then pivots up and can be moved back beyond vertical so that it hold itself in position.

After removing the dryer door, getting to the drum itself was not too difficult and only involves removing half a dozen small bolts. I was able to move the pieces off to the side without disconnecting any of the wiring. Without looking at the parts diagram I can't name any of the pieces involved, but there were only a couple. The drum can then be lifted right off its rollers.

The replacement felt for this dryer has to be fastened with adhesive, and I would recommend running the bead of glue around half of the drum, setting the new felt in place, letting it sit for a few minutes to let the glue set up, then repeating for the other half. I tried installing the entire piece of felt at once, but after getting about 3/4 of it on, pulling the remaining unattached felt taut to fit around the drum ended up removing the first part of the felt because the glue did not have time to set up. If you've ever changed a bicycle tire, you'll know about reaching that point where the tire doesn't seem big enough to fit around the rim, but it just needs to be muscled into place. Same idea here, but trying to muscle the felt over fresh glue while the just installed part comes loose is frustrating and in my case almost resulted in ruining the entire new felt strip. Once the felt is anchored it's easy to pull taut over the remaining part of the drum.

Raised the front of top panel with the putty knife and the front panel was unscrewed as the video showed. The drum slid out after the belt was released.

My machine had 4 rollers, which was not shown in the schematics. So I replaced the back, cleaned the front ones and works great for now. Plan to replace the front later.

Removing the tri rings is much easier if cut w wire cutters. Otherwise waist lots of time to get them off. Just buy new ones.

new part came in a day or two. took part out of package and it easly snaped in place. very nice

Just replaced the old lint filter.

we received the two heating element wires in 3 days and connected the heating element with no problem works great.

Removed rear cover. Released tension on spring to pulley to remove belt from pulley. Used a socket to remove idler. Did the reverse to install.

The part wasn’t for my machine. Unfortunaly I was not able to repair it. I was sent stripe of foam with an adhesive strip on the back. I needed a felt strip.

Simply removed back cover on dryer and the idler pulley wheel and arm was right there and only had one screw to remove after relieving tension on belt by removing spring. Very simple

Videos are excellent to open and access internal parts. It turned out a rat was killed in the blower fan when we first encountered the problem. This prevented the blower from turning which interfered with motor function.

This required removing drum & belt, disconnecting motor clips, blower belt, and blower housing. The blower housing needed to be disassembled. Having a 5/16” & 1/8” ratcheting nut driver makes this process much easier. Don’t try this with a wrench.

After getting rid of the rat and decomposition, we sanitized the entire housing with soap & chlorine bleach.

Reassembly was uneventful and relatively easy. We ended up replacing 4 rollers, 2 belts (drum belt & blower belt), the thermistor which was damaged as a result of the blocked blower.

Replaced high limit thermostat and thermal cutoff. Dryer works like a champ. Reviewed couple of YouTube videos that showed clearly how to
get to the effected parts, test them and replace them. I had an old front loading dryer once before that I repaired a couple of times but these parts were accessible by removing a panel on the rear of the unit. The procedure was more involved with this unit. After studying the videos and getting a feel for what was involved, the process, while involved, was fairly simple and putting the unit back together was also fairly easy. Replacement parts did the trick. Very happy.

(Always unplug dryer before making any repairs) I opened the dryer and checked the heating element. Making sure that the connection was good and nothing was damaged, I determined the problem was overheated wires. They melted and lots connection. I replaced them with the heating element wire connection kit. Easy to install and simple to get right. I cleaned the dryer again with a vaccum cleaner, removing all the lint, and checked the vents, making sure they were clear...I turned the breaker on (it was tripped when the dryer overheated)and everything worked great.

removed old latch with pliers - inserted new latch