11076932691 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

First, I opened up the front of the dryer and then unscrewed the entire back piece. I assembled the new exhaust piece from the kit. Next, I took out the old straight rear exhaust and then replaced it with the elbow shaped left eshaust from the kit. Lastly, reattache the back and front pieces of the dryer.

After unplugging the dryer, I removed the bottom panel in front. Remove the the filter inside the dryer and remove the filter housing below. There you can see the thermal fuse on the air duct, its white with two blue wires. You can check it with a ohmmeter after removing the wires. If its open its bad. Its held in place with two sheet metal screws. After replacing the thermal fuse the dryer worked fine. However I would suggest cleaning the air duct and the outside discharge opening. Hope this helps.

I disconnect the power, then the vent pipe. I removed the back panel of the dryer to access the pulley and removed the belt. Replaced the back and put everything back together.

Inside the dryer tub, remove the filter housing by removing two phillips head screws. Unplug the sensor wires, note when replacing wires, black wire goes on upper sensor.
Separate filter grill from housing. Using the pliers, compress the tabs on the sensor plugs and push it thru the grill. The small blade screwdriver may come in handy here to pry up on sensor to assist in pulling the plug end through the grill. Replace the sensors by hooking short end into grill and pushing the long end through the grill. When replacing the housing to the dryer, the most difficult thing is getting the screwdriver onto the recessed screws. Be sure to put the tab on top of the housing under the dryer frame when rotating the assembly into place.

I deduced the lid switch was the problem.

I removed the two screws holding the control panel on. Pulled the control panel back.
Disconnected the ground wire of the lid switch.
removed the two top clamps that hold the panel to the top of the machine.
Pulled back the casing (outside of the washer) and placed it on it's side on the floor. Here I could reach the switch. Removed old, installed new and reversed the process.

The part that gave me the biggest problem was setting the casing back on to the frame. You have to slide the front part in at the bottome, then lean back the rest of it.

After replacing all the other fuses and sensors I finally replaced the Radiant Flame Sensor and it is working perfectly.

After replacing the other parts and the heat still not coming on I read somewhere that the Radiant Flame Sensor is a normal closed circuit and when I checked with a meter it was open. I would have saved a lot of time and money if I had read that earlier.

With the correct parts and watching the video, it was so easy to repair. We ordered the wrong part (for the Electric Dryer when it should have been for the Residential Dryer) but the return was easy and we got the new parts super fast. Next time I would probably look at the offending part first before ordering just to make certain. But we used a socket set and Philips screwdriver and actually had our teens do all the work for experience. Fixed the loud noise one and for all.

I moved the dryer to a location where I could get to both the front and back sides. I opened the back by first removing the top cover and then the back. It requires either a Phillips head screwdriver or a quarter inch socket. In addition, it requires removing the four power wires which connect to the computer. If you are unfamiliar with the wiring layout, take a photo with your cell phone which you can then refer to when re-assembling. Once the back was removed, I saw that the belt was still intact, but the pulley which provides tension to the belt was frozen. Take a photo of the belt route between the motor and the pulley. Try to get the spring position in the photo. Remove the belt from the pulley by reducing the tension and then sliding the belt out (this assumes the belt is not broken). The pulley arm is held in place by a single bolt which can be removed by a socket set. Remove the arm with the pulley attached. Examine the pulley to figure out why it is frozen. In my case, the pulley had been frozen for some time and the belt had actually chewed through the pulley and was sliding (polishing) on the pulley axle? I used a pair of pliers to loosen the destroyed pulley by rotating it back and forth over the axle while gripping the arm the axle is attached to. As it loosened up I worked it off the axle. I used a cloth to clean the axle of grime from the belt, pulley, and dryer lint. The new pulley comes with a washer and triangular plastic "fastener". First you put on the washer, then the pulley and then you secure it on the axle by sliding the triangular fastener over the axle so it sits in a small grove near the end of the axle. Then put the pulley arm back by replacing the bolt. Make sure you do not overtighten the arm since it is intended to rotate about the bolt. If the dryer belt breaks, the spring will pull the arm down and throw a cutoff switch. Its operation should be obvious. Once the arm is back in place, refer to your photo and replace the spring (this can be tricky and frustrating, particularly if you don't use something like needle nose pliers). Once the spring is in place, depress it and re-install the dryer belt. Refer to the photo you took earlier if you've forgotten how the belt was routed. Then re-install the dryer's back panel, re-attach the electric wires (again refer to the photo you took earlier), and re-attach the top cover. You might want to test your handiwork at this point before you reconnect the dryer vent

once the back is off remove belt from tentioner and remove v clip. smooth shaft with wd-40 and scotch brite , then install new idler replace v clip
and your done !!!

First and most important was to unplug the unit.
I removed the 2 screws that hold the lint screen shoot to the top cover and then simply popped the top of the machine open using 2 screw drivers and
gently prying it up. I raised the top cover about 8 inches and supported it with a block of wood.
I opened the front loading door and removed the 2 screws that hold the door actuator switch while holding the switch on the inside so that nothing would fall down into no mans land. Once the switch was loose I pulled it into view and could see that the actuator spring was broken. I used the search at the Part Select Web site and found the placement part very easy. I was amazed that the part was shipped and delivered to my house the very next day. The actuator spring simply snaps into place and I assembled it in the reverse order of removal, I removed the block of wood and snapped the top back into location and reinstalled the 2 screws for the lint screen shoot . I plugged the dryer in and it work perfect. I can't say enough about how well the experiance with Parts Select went, I will recommend them to others.

Took the old filter out and inserted the new one- works great!!

Rather than remove the front panels, door, control panel and drum, I noticed 1/4" metal screws on the back panel. There were approximately 6 holding the back panel in place. I did have to remove the top panel as well before removing the back. Once removed I had complete access to the broken idler pulley assembly. I immediately saw the broken pulley. I installed the new one with very little effort. Reset the belt according to instructions from the video. Reassembled, plugged in, hit start and enjoyed the sweet sounds of success. All told it took me about 20 minutes from start to finish.

I ordered the switch, which is what most people told me the problem was. I didn't have a multimeter, so I couldn't test the current one.

I removed the two screws from above the lid switch, removed the control panel screws on either side, and used a flat screwdriver to pry the top off by popping the clips.

The switch was easy to reach, and I compared the old and new switch after removing the paddle assembly. The new switch has three prongs, whereas my old one had two, so I put the gray wire terminal onto the bottom prong. I set everything down, plugged it in, and tested it, but still no spin cycle.

After some further research, I realized the problem was with the spin solenoid under the washer, or the red wire that leaves the lid switch and goes to the spin solenoid, also called a wig-wag solenoid. (This is a belt driven model, not direct drive.) It's not too common that the solenoids fail, but it is rather common that the wires break inside the insulation on this model.

Moral of the story is always ohm through the switches and wires before ordering replacement parts. (Remember, never ohm through a live circuit.)

My daughter found the video on youtube, which showed step by step repairing procedures. I just followed it and fixed my dryer in 15 min.

PartSelect sent me three different door catches with instructions for choosing the correct one. I did choose and simply inserted it into the slot and voile! All finished and it works great now! PartSelect had the part delivered the day after my order was placed. I would suggest doing business with them to anyone asking who they might contact for a part. I especially appreciated the ease of identifying and ordering from them. I was able to do all of this on-line via their website.