11077032601 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Followed standard instructions regarding removal of top first & then the front panels. Realized after following this process that I did not have to remove top, but only one of front panels to obtain access to moisture sensor. If I have to do this again, the replacement of sensor will be much easier.

After turning off the power to the dryer I removed two screws to the bottom front panel and droped it out of the way. I remved three screws hloding the lint screen in place just for better axcess to the element. I then removed the two wires attached to the element and then the two screws holding the element in place. I put everything back together in reverse. I also took the time to clean any dust and lint out.

Checked fuse with Volmeter, had continuity (acted as a short) not the problem. Disconnected Hot Surface Igniter 2 Position connector to check resistance for a range of 50-300 Ohms of resistance with Voltohm Meter. Meter read open (High Resistance). Removed Igniter by unscrewing 5/16" hex nut on igniter plate assembly and noticed silicon carbide element was cracked in the middle. Ordered a new igniter and noticed assembly was required. Be careful here as igniter element is fragile, also do not touch it with your bare hands. You have to lay down on floor to reinstall igniter assembly and you might want to practice anchoring the defective igniter to gain confidence. Finally with slow movements anchored new igniter assembly and turned on dryer. Watched igniter glow heating gas valve and heating gas flame returned. Dryer fixed for a few hours of study online and cost only $24, plus learned how the gas dryer works.

Not a handyman but this was an easy and cheap fix. Now the automatic settings are working and drying much faster. Unplug machine, front panel has 2 spring clips toward the edges that you stick a flat tool into and pull on the panel to open. Pull off the electrical connections from the old sensors by the right side of the lint screen. Needlenose pliers help with the one farther up there. Then just pull the old ones sensors out, stick the new ones in, reconnect the electrical and get ready to live the good life with dry clothes that don't smell musty.

took 2 screws out and replace new coils

turned off the power and removed the back cover, checked the thermal fuse had no continuity. ordered new part. very easy Installed the new thermal fuse,.replaced the cover, turned on the power and worked fine.

Very easy do it yourself repair, and saved at least $300.00. I watched a video and it took me less than 20 minutes to complete repair. Part fit perfect and I have already ordered another to keep as a spare.

How to repair E1 error/fault on Whirlpool Duet dryer model GEW9200LW0 please watch that video very helpful.

I ordered the top 5 items that may cause this problem based on the troubleshooting guide presented by the technicians I found in youtube. I replaced the coils and that fixed the problem. The coils are the first to go out according to techs, but I have the other parts just in case I may need them later on. My Maytag dryer which is over 19 years old is alive and working again. The coils are accessible from the bottom access panel secured by 2 nut screws, unplug the dryer first, then the coils are secured by a bracket with 2 small philips head screw, I used a stubby philips screw driver to remove the bracket, undo the 2 electrical connectors on the coils one with 2 prongs and the other with 3 prongs. Put the new coils attached the electrical connectors and secured them with the bracket. Checked for any loose wiring ensuring connectors are secured in place, then test run the dryer with the panel off so you can see the if the flame stays on, if you run the dryer without wet clothes the flame may stop after 15 or so minutes. It is better to test run the dryer with wet clothes just like when your drying fresh washed and wringed clothes. It was really easy, good luck!

Ordered new latch. Installed new latch into the dryer within one minute.

My gas dryer would run with heat for 5 minutes in all settings, but kick off and not heat again. Timer would not advance in autodry. Thought it was the cycling thermostat, so replaced that, but did not solve the issue. Ordered the coils, and cleaned out heavily clogged lint from bottom of lint trap, especially right above the fan motor at the bottom of the trap. Received the coils, opened the top and front, took out drum, and replaced the coils. The replacement took less than 2 minutes. Be careful putting the drum back on to make sure the felt is not caught inside the drum. You can give it a spin to make sure. Wear gloves, as I cut myself up pretty good on the edges of the dryer body. The inside of my dryer looks like a crime scene! Anyway, I put it back together, and it runs great. Solved the timer advance issue in autodry, and the heat kicks on and off when it is supposed to. Good luck! Thanks Part Select!

Unplugged electric power, removed lower front panel, removed fan unit cover. Was able to easily reach and test the disposable thermal fuse ok; m-coils ok but replaced; tested internal bias thermostat bad, replaced. Put fan unit cover on. Plugged dryer in to test and repair was successful. Did not install new igniter, flame sensor, or thermal cutoff fuse kit at this time but will keep for future if necessary.
Parts.Select online help made it easy for me to do this repair. I bought all possible parts $170 w. ship given the dryer age. Three day delivery Denver to Phila.
Before attempting to repair, called Kenmore service and. Was told one month before tech was available, unacceptable. Went to several appliance stores to buy new and found earliest available delivery would be 1 - 3 months! So went online to attempt repair. Found Parts Select which had numerous examples of exact problem and identified likely defective parts. So we avoided spending $1600 on a new dryer. The three installed parts were about $60! Highly recommend Parts Select.

Took the top off and then front off and drum out . Replaced Drum roller and shaft support bolts.

I expected to find a broken blower belt so purchased that belt and the others I planned to replace since the on line instructions indicated that I had to pull the drum to replace the blower belt. I did not, so didn't use most of the parts at all. The instructions that came with the parts, were only slightly helpful because they were for a far different model. Some youtube videos were more help. I had to pop the top, which is easy and explained in the instructions, remove the front panel, which only requires removing two 5/16" small bolts, then lifting it up and off. Simple. With that panel off, I could see the blower belt and it was intact and seemed to work fine. I could have replaced it easily with no further disassembly at that point. However, since it was not blowing the air out of the dryer, I knew there was another problem. So I removed the front of the blower housing, which is four, 1/4" small bolts and it just pulls off. I could then see that the entire front of the blower was packed with lint that had gotten past the normal lint filter. I cleared that all out and checked that the blower itself was intact and clean and there were no other obstructions. When I rotated the blower by turning the motor, it moved easily. So I put it all back together without changing any parts and tested it. It worked perfectly again. I kept the parts for the next time I might need them.

I spent the most time researching and confirming exactly what part I needed before ordering the shipment. The illustrations and videos available on how to replace the part(s) were VERY helpful and much appreciated.

I followed the instructions seen on video and removed the top and front of dryer. Then pre-fit the new seal - and stretched it out some while dry to make sure it fit the drum. Once fitted, then I glued 1/2 of it and let it stand for at least 30 minutes and then did the 2nd 1/2 after that. I sure needed clips to hold it in place before moving on to complete both halves. Then I tested it and it tested ok.

I have only noticed 1 spot where some adhesive ran out that shows but it was minor. Had to figure out how the main drive belt work with the pressure pully because it had come loose from the drum. Once past that - it just needed reassembly.