110773 Kenmore - Instructions

First of all, you go in from the front. There a clip on each side that I just pried up to pop the front of the dryer up. A screw also needs to be removed in the lint catcher area. Also, two screws holding the door open switch must be removed as I never could get the electrical connectors to disconnect. No big deal. I had to figure out you must lift the front of the dryer up as the last two things holding it in are a prong on each side. Lift the front up and off and set it aside. As you do this the drum will either fall on your feet or you'll have it supported be another person or with something else. I used bungee cords and kept it in the laundry room. Cleaned out all the old lint, collected a few bucks in change. It took me awhile to figure out how the new belt routed through the removable pulley guide thing and around the wheel pulley. I don't remember right now as I'm not looking at it but remember pinching the belt and feeding it through the guide and around the wheel pulley which has a little slot and grooves matching the belt. Besides scrapping my wife's hand while she was helping me get the front of the dryer back on there were no casualties or further complications. Good luck!

Well, after I got the the dishwasher apart I realized the problem was not the wash impeller kit, it was the pump/ motor asembly. we deicided to replace the machine. the hardest part was holding the impeller from turning while removing the screw. there is a hex on top of the impeller you must hold in place but, if the machine is old, the hex is brittle,It will break as mine did. you will need to disconnect and take the washer from under the cabinet, and wedge a piece of wood into the motor to hold it. Then loosen the screw and inspect the components. 10 years old, it was more cost effective to replace the dishwasher. i emailed for a request authorization to return. partselect responded promptly with the autorization i needed to return the part. The service was good, and I would use partselect again.

I thought that the valve inlet was defective. Ordered the replacement, got it in one day, replaced the part...
and it worked perfectly. Saved big $$ in a service call. Found everything I needed online.

Pryed the top off the dryer, unplugged the door switch, took the screws out of the front panel, then lifted the drum out. Placed the new belt around the drum and while my wife held it in place and steadied it, I reached underneath and looped the belt through (as per instructions), reassembled and back in business! Reaching under the drum was not that easy....VERY tight space to work in and there was no way I could get both hands through, I almost gave up, but one last try and a couple of good grunts, and it popped into place. Getting the wires back on the door switch was a bit of an ordeal too. Took about 30 mins. but still worth it. I'm sure I saved at least a $100 repair.

I shut off the power to the dishwasher, then I removed the front panel under the door. On the right side just behind the electrical box there are two wires going up to the hi-limit thermostat, (you may need a small mirror to see it), remove one screw that is holding the thermostat bracket, unplug the wires from the old thermostat and install new one. Screw bracket and thermostat back to the underside of the dishwasher, reinstall the front panel, turn on the power, done.

After my husband disassembled the cabinet and removed the drum, we used a putty knife to remove the old seal and carefully glued the new one in place. (A 2 man job to do it without leaking glue everywhere.) We then replaced the belt, following the picture sent by PartSelect and put everything back. (We put all small pieces in labeled envelopes so that putting it back together was easy.) Another helpful hint - take a few digital pictures beforehand in the event that you need to see it to put it back together!

Broken latch on dishwasher prevented operation
Door Latch Bolt PS11741367 replacement instruction.

There are no instructions known to mankind on this part, however I did manage said replacement through determination and beer. First I looked it up on the internet. All kind of results, except for the model I was working on. Called, very nice woman directed me to yet another YouTube presentation for another model. As this was no help, I chose to not call her back. Not her fault.
So, I did what every instruction for the other models called for, disconnect the power. Seemed like a good idea if everyone suggested it. After that, remove the inner door by removing the screws. At this point I would like to mention that I also ordered and paid for what I thought would be a set of inner door screws to replace the old and weathered ones. However, they sent me one screw.
Who in their right mind would pay $5.10 for ONE SCREW? Well, your looking right at him. I felt like I sold the family cow for a magic bean, but that’s another story.
So, without instructions, I compared the part I ordered with the one installed in the door. It matched up in many ways, with exception for the fact I would not budge from it’s position, wiggle yes, remove no. I stared at it for 10 minutes with no further progress. Something has to give. I decided to remove the cover of the electronics with the hopes and optimism of a child. It also did not want to be removed. Back to YouTube and the computer. Nothing. I stared at it for another 10 minutes. Drank a beer, and started to “horse” it off, somehow it became ajar, and was finally removed. Upon examination of the old door latch bolt, I noticed that it was attached to the electronic mass by 4 wires. I used my phone camera to record which went where with false hopes that the repair was in reach. It was either me or the dishwasher. At this point, good money was on the dishwasher.
After recording and removal of said wires, I took the entire door latch and whatever the other piece was, to a table for further study, and another beer. After said study and beer, I remembered looking at other parts, one came to mind, a small teflon rod. As I look upon the part I knew about, I noticed it was adhering to the alien part with wires by 2 small teflon rods. I found a small nail, and pushed them out of the part, and they final separated. I replaced the old part with the new one and then reversed all steps and procedures, attached wires, reattached electronic cover, screwed down the inner door, shut main door, and started a dish cycle. Works perfectly. You may ask about the expensive screw. I took it to a local jeweler, who found nothing remarkable about it. As there must be SOMETHING about it that makes it valuable, so I had it mounted and framed in a nice display case for friends and family to treasure for years to come. A real conversation piece, and one more thing to dust.

Disconnected supply. Lifted top (hinges on rear). removed two 1/4 hex head screws retaining front panel. Disconnected door switch wires. Removed front panel, lifting off from bottom tabs. Lifted out drum and discarded broken belt. Spent 30 minutes+ cleaning interior, drum skid area, dryer exit tube, motor pulley, belt tensioner, etc, etc. Checked wiring harness for possible damage (no damage found). Repositioned drum skid pads, which had become dislodged from their intended position. Reinstalled the drum with new belt, ensuring both belt & tensioner were correctly positioned, and drum rollers and felt seals were also correctly positioned. Reinstalled front panel, tightening the two 1/4 hex head retaining screws. Reconnected power. Checked functionality. Closed top cover.

Removed front of dryer, unplugged each coil to determine where buzzing was coming from.....determined it was the boosting coil....ordered part and replaced. Dryer works great....we think it had be going bad over time because drying times have noticeable decreased.

There are a total of six screws that have to be removed to do this job.
Take the lint tray out and remove the first two screws.
Secondly, remove the lower panel in the front of the dryer. You do this by inserting a screwdriver at the top portion and pry it off. Next, loosen the two screws under the top panel in the front of the dryer.
Now take your screwdriver and pry up the top lid of the dryer. The last two screws are in the inside of the front panel. They hold together the front and side panels. Remove them and be sure you have a support for under the dryer drum. (once you remove the front panel, the drum no longer has a way to stay suspended)
(Make sure you disconnect the wires attached to the front door, making note of which wire goes where.)
At this point, You can follow the easy instructions that come with your new belt.
If you have a little mechanical aptitude, this is a very easy project.

I first ordered the coils from a different web site and they sent the wrong ones. The job would have been much eaiser if i had just returned and ordered from here. Instead i cut wires and tried the others but since they were worng, it did not work. I didn't label the wires so it was a puzzle to put it back together. Once i had the wires connected properly it was a simple fix. You just open the top and take the front pannel off, remove the drum and it is right there at the bottom. Two screws take the cover off of the coils and they slide off the gas valve. Slide the new ones on and replace the cover. Put the front pannel back on, close the top and its good to go. I first tried the highlimit thermostat, and termostat with no luck. The flame would light when it was cold, but once warmed up, the flame would ignite and immediatly go out. The coils did the trick.

It was so easy, that my wife did it the day we got the part before I got home from work. She wedged it out with a flat head screw driver and then pushed the new door catch assembly in with her thumb. Pretty simple, thanks for having parts like this available to the public!

Removed the old one and installed the new one! What impressed me the most was the amount of time for delivery, one day! Actually it came before 24 hrs!!! Very impressive! I would highly recommend this company!!!

The old catch on my dryer door was gone and I was keeping the door closed using tape. I ordered the part and it arrived with no hassles in about 5 days. The repair was too easy. I just popped the new catch in place. It took all of about 30 seconds to complete using no tools. I wish all home repairs were this easy.

Need needle nose pliers to remove the keepers in the end stops on basket rails. Basket must be removed to get to the spinner assimbley.
The upper rinse spinner is held in place by a stainless steal bracket. NO SCREWS!
1. You push the spinner assembly up and push it to the back of the machine.
2. Then you pull the spinner assembly down to clear the bracket and then pull it to the front of the machine.
3. To replace it just reverse the procedure.
Used part # 3379329.

Louis at ljsengele@att.net