110777 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

First it was a process of alimination to find out why it was dropping out. After the problem was found it was just a matter of replacing the holding coil on the gas valve. Thank you fred kenney sr

I recommend you order the idler pulley as soon as you start to hear the unusual noise indicating metal against metal. Replace the idler pulley before it fails and possibly causes more damage to the drive system. Simply removed the power cord at the back of the dryer and then the multiple screws holding the back panel in place as well as the clip holding the exhaust vent in place. You may need to remove the top panel to access a few of these screws. A diagram of the belt routing is in the paperwork I found behind the front lower panel of the dryer. This too is easily removed with just a few screws.

I bought a belt from a store in my area- What a mistake...I found this site and read all the stories on how easy it was and how PartSelect.com had the parts in stock and had easy instructions...I put the idler pulley in place, put the belt in place (all from instructions included) and put the dryer back together (which was easy). I actually did it alone. I would recommend this company to anyone in need of their parts and help!

1. Disconnect dryer from electrical outlet. 2. Pull dryer out and disconnect the exhaust tube from the back. 3. Remove the screws at the top of the dryer back ( 3 ) and remove the top of the dryer. 4. The service instructions will be in a bracket on the top right. I didn't use them because I have done this job before. 5. Continue to remove the screws holding the back to the sides. There will be a lint collector attached to the back panel by three screws. This must be removed first, then the screws along the edge of the back panel. 6. Pull the back panel up and away from the sides and set aside. You will see two lower rollers attached to this panel. 7. Look under the drum and you will see a idler arm and roller in front of the electric motor and a little to the left. Notice that the drive belt is looped around the roller. Unloop the drive belt from idler and roller. 8. Lift the drum of the dryer up and out of the dryer. 9. Replace all the rollers (4) by removing the plastic "star" on the roller shaft. This can be done using a small screw driver. 10. Once the rollers are replaced, place the new drive belt, ribbed side facing the drum around the drum. Lift the drum up and into the dryer enclosure, making sure the rollers in the front of the drum are in the ridge groove. 11. Lift the back of the dryer in to the dryer enclosure, again making sure the rollers are in the rear groove. Turn the drum by hand to make sure the front seal is flush to the front of the dryer and that the front rollers are in the front groove. I2. Install drive belt around electric motor shaft ( ribbed side facing the shaft), lift idler arm up while running the non-ribbed side of the belt around the roller on the idler arm. 13. Install the back panel using the remaining screws. 14. Install the top of dryer by sliding it into the front panel and securing with the last three remaining screws, these 3 screws go on the top of the back panel. 15. Replace exhaust hose and replace dryer into space it formally occupied.

I removed the discharge duct from the back of the dryer. Then, I removed the screws on the back of the dryer and the back itself. This exposed the cycling thermostat. I removed the screw holding the thermostat. I took the wires off the defective thermostat and reinstalled them on the new thermostat. Then, I reassembled in reverse order.

(I knew the gas coils were bad, since the gas ignitor would glow brightly as the burner attempted to ignite. So I knew everything except the gas valve was operating normally.)

Unplug the electrical cord to the dryer. Remove the front access panel. Remove the retainer clip for the gas coils (2 screws). Remove the coils and unplug the electrical connections. Connect the new coils to their respective electricl connections. Slide the nes coils back onto their respective posts on the gas valve. Replace the retainer clip, and 2 screws to hold it in place. (I then plugged the dryer back into the wall outlet to visually check the burner operation) Everything worked fine so I then replaced the front panel.

Remove back cover
Raise top
Remove filter assembly
Remove front cover and drum

Tip: Use an end wrench on the fan and another on the pully shaft of the motor to remove fan from motor prior to removing motor from cradle.

Vacuum everything while disassembled

Remember to take your time and not force anything and this will go smooth.

First of all, you go in from the front. There a clip on each side that I just pried up to pop the front of the dryer up. A screw also needs to be removed in the lint catcher area. Also, two screws holding the door open switch must be removed as I never could get the electrical connectors to disconnect. No big deal. I had to figure out you must lift the front of the dryer up as the last two things holding it in are a prong on each side. Lift the front up and off and set it aside. As you do this the drum will either fall on your feet or you'll have it supported be another person or with something else. I used bungee cords and kept it in the laundry room. Cleaned out all the old lint, collected a few bucks in change. It took me awhile to figure out how the new belt routed through the removable pulley guide thing and around the wheel pulley. I don't remember right now as I'm not looking at it but remember pinching the belt and feeding it through the guide and around the wheel pulley which has a little slot and grooves matching the belt. Besides scrapping my wife's hand while she was helping me get the front of the dryer back on there were no casualties or further complications. Good luck!

Lint filter supplied by Parts Select was an exact replacement by an aftermarket manufacturer. I put the old one and the new one side by side and they were identical (of course, the handle wasn't broken off on the new one!). I coulnd't be happier. It arrived at my house 2 days after I ordered it. I highly recommend Parts Select.

The repair was fairly easy. The most timely part of the repair was removing the twelve screws from the back panel to expose the repair.

1. Remove the lint filter. Then remove 2 screws at the lint filter housing.

2. At the back of the dryer, remove 2 screws that restrain the hinges for the dryer top. Do NOT remove the hinges.

3. Remove the front lower access panel. It snaps at the top and hinges at the bottom. It can be slipped off the hinges.

4. Remove 2 screws at the bottom of the main front panel

5. The front of the dryer top is held in place by two plastic clips. Use a flat blade screwdriver (with a rag wrapped around the tip to minimize paint damage) to pry the top up at each front corner. Then tilt the top up to just past vertical. You now can see the top of the spring that is connected to the door cable.

6. Open the dryer door. Use a putty knife to pry up the plastic plug that holds the cable in place at the door. Remove the old cable from the door and insert the new one. Be sure the cable end without a hole goes into the dryer door. Replace the plastic plug.

7. Feed the new cable through the main front panel and close the door.

8. Loosen but do NOT remove two screws that hold the main front panel to each side panel. Tilt the bottom of the front panel out about 2 inches.

9. Working through the gap between the main front panel and the side, hook the spring into the hole in the cable end.

10. Working through the open top and the gap on the side, move the spring+cable up to the top. Pass the upper end of the spring through the rectangular hole in the top of the main front panel and hook the end into the small hole there.

11. Repeat for other cable as needed.

12. Reassemble all parts. You may need to hold the top of the drum up as you move the main front panel back into place. Install the main front panel lower screws before tightening the upper screws.

I new that the drum would need to be removed to perform the seal replacements but it didn't look that difficult. Sure enough, it was a piece of cake. The whole process of installation took less than one hour to complete. The saving to repair vs. replacement of the dryer amounted to the equivilant of 4 - 5 rounds of golf. Yes I would do it again!

Following the instructions that came with the parts, I removed the top off of the dryer, which was very easy, two more 5/16" screws and I had the drum out. I confess, this was my second time at this repair. 1st time I neglected to replace the rear drum seal which I strongly recommend you do while you have it open. I only replaced the 2 wheels last time and it failed very soon afterwards.
Lesson Learned: Always replace the rear drum seal when you replace the support wheels!!!

After my husband disassembled the cabinet and removed the drum, we used a putty knife to remove the old seal and carefully glued the new one in place. (A 2 man job to do it without leaking glue everywhere.) We then replaced the belt, following the picture sent by PartSelect and put everything back. (We put all small pieces in labeled envelopes so that putting it back together was easy.) Another helpful hint - take a few digital pictures beforehand in the event that you need to see it to put it back together!

Disconnected supply. Lifted top (hinges on rear). removed two 1/4 hex head screws retaining front panel. Disconnected door switch wires. Removed front panel, lifting off from bottom tabs. Lifted out drum and discarded broken belt. Spent 30 minutes+ cleaning interior, drum skid area, dryer exit tube, motor pulley, belt tensioner, etc, etc. Checked wiring harness for possible damage (no damage found). Repositioned drum skid pads, which had become dislodged from their intended position. Reinstalled the drum with new belt, ensuring both belt & tensioner were correctly positioned, and drum rollers and felt seals were also correctly positioned. Reinstalled front panel, tightening the two 1/4 hex head retaining screws. Reconnected power. Checked functionality. Closed top cover.