11094976300 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

The repair was fairly simple and while it made the spin operation quieter and and a bit more stable, it still gets out of balance. Disconnected power, shutoff supply lines and disconnected them from the unit.

Laid washer on its front and replaced the two more visible springs fairly easily from underneath using a little leverage with a 2 x 4 to take any residual tension off the springs.

Then I turned the washer over on its back (gently and with a little support (board or old thick towel) so the weight of the unit didn't rest entirely on the water intake connectors

Again, lifted the tub with 2 x 4 and disconnected the power and control connector to the motor to make a little more room to get to the spring.

If you do this, be sure to re-connect that connector before you put the washer back and test, otherwise it will fill and then sit.... I had to siphon the tank out, disconnect everything, flip it over and re-connect that power connector!! After that the unit ran better than before, especially on the spin cycle. Over all this washer is 15 years old and worn a bit so we are still careful not to overload it and balance the loading as much as possible. Large bedspreads and king size sheets or mattress covers will always spin out of balance but for 90% of regular washing it was an improvement.

I followed the online instructions to remove the shell and attempted to remove the drum, but not having the special wrench to remove the special nut, tried using a screwdriver and hammer, which failed to loosen the nut. I then started examining the the undercarriage and saw that I could replace the springs without removing the tub and did that. In the course of replacing the springs I discovered I could also access the wear pads by lifting the drum off of the undercarriage and placing a block to hold it above the pads. I was able to pop the old pads out by tapping underneath them with a hammer. The new pads were then installed and the weight of the drum popped them in. It was necessary to lift the drum assembly three times for each of the three pads.

Remove the washer case/enclosure to expose all the internal parts. Lie on the floor and with pliers and a strong arm. Remove and replace each spring one at a time. Pretty straightforward.

First, I read the previous repair stories, so I knew what step to do first. So, first I took the hose off of the drain, then I removed it from the washer. And as the previous repair story stated, some water came out and I had a towel ready to catch the water that was in the hose. I threaded the clamp onto the new hose, pushed the new hose onto the washer, used the pliers to open the clamp to better clamp the hose onto the washer. Then, placed the drain hose into the drain pipe and it was done! Thanks for such a great site!

Old door catch came out, new one slipped in. All works great.

Completely dismantled washer per video , replaced gasket and spanner nut, then re-assembled washer. I’m a 58 year old female. It was tough. Main issue was that video was for dif. Model washer. Had to figure out some things myself.

Followed the video on the website. I removed the hoses from the pump rather than removing the pump as suggested in the video. Then separated the motor from the transmission and replaced the coupling; then reattached the motor and hoses. Lining up the washer cover and clamping it back on was the most trouble. But all in all, a easy repair.

just like video showed really helpfull

First, I unplugged the dyer and then I removed all of the screws for the panel that covers the rear of the dryer. This exposed the cycling thermostat's location. I then removed the wires, one at a time so I would be able to put them back on in the same place. Then I removed the one screw using a nut driver and then put the new cycling thermostat in place. It was pretty easy.

I removed the back of the washer, removed the old water inlet syphon, replaced it with the new one, and, with some difficulty, replaced the back of the washer, reattaching all of the parts to it.

diconnected water supply and discharge, unplugged the unit, removed the aggitator, laid the washer on it's back, romoved the hoses from the pump, took out 3 bolts, removed the motor/transmission and replaced the clutch and put it all back together.

I was familiar with the Kenmore / Whirlpool direct drive mechanism but at first I could not determine how to release the console. I finally found the end cap trim pieces would pop off revealing the 2 screws that hold the console in place. After removing them the console flips up and over the backboard. I then removed the 2 clips that hold the cabinet to the backboard, unpluged the lid switch connector and then tipped the entire cabinet forward and off the frame. This gives you access to the entire washing machine mechanism.
Next I released the 2 metal clips that hold the pump on and push it out of the way leaving the hoses connected. Next I released the 2 clips that hold the pump on, these clips also have a screw to secure them. I was then able to set the motor to the side without removing any wires.
The coupling parts had broken and were already off of the motor shaft and the input drive shaft of the transmission. I put the new drive parts on and had to tap them down untill they were flush with the end of the shafts. I then put the rubber coupling on the transmission drive end and aligned the motor drive to mate into the other holes in the coupling as I put the two back together. I then re attached the 2 motor clips with screws and reinstalled the pump with it's clips. I then reinstalled the cabinet onto the frame and replaced the cabinet clips. I then plugged in the lid switch connector and flipped the console back over and screwed it down. I then reinstalled the trim caps that had me stumped to begin with. The unit tested out OK.

Pulled the machine out. Tilted is back, had my son hold it up. Took pliers pulled off hose clamps, used flat head screw driver to pop off clips. removed pump. Then did it all in reverse.
Piece of cake.

The most difficult part of this repair was making sure I purchased the right part !!! Part Select.com has a great website with pictures of almost every part you could ever need. I was able to select the right part and from there the repair was easy.

Unplug electrical cord, disconnect water inlet hoses and drain line at rear panel. Move washer to garage or larger work area if necessary. Disconnect control panel from top of washer cabinet by removing the two screws at the front corners of the control panel. (The control panel can now be flipped up and back when you are ready to remove the cabinet assembly.) Disconnect the rear panel from cabinet assembly by removing attaching screws at bottom of rear panel (and along the vertical edges if any screws are installed there). Either slightly lift the rear panel up off of the two clip brackets that attach it to the rear top edge of the cabinet assembly, or if need be remove the clips from the cabinet slots. With the rear panel loose, slide the control panel assembly slightly towards the rear and up to disengage it from the cabinet slots, then tip it up and back, away from the cabinet. The cabinet assembly (with top attached) can now be tipped forward and away from washer to expose the internal workings. (It may be necessary to support the rear panel and/or control panel.) The water pump is attached to the front of the motor by two spring clips. Disconnect the two water lines from the pump, then remove the two spring clips. Pull the pump forward off of the shaft extending out of the motor. Install the new pump, then assemble the washer in reverse order. (I was unsure where the leak originated on my washer so I completely removed the rear panel which entailed disconnecting from it the electrical cord fitting, drain and input water fixtures and various other brackets. Pump replacement can be accomplished without completely removing the back panel.)