25314772102 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

Remove the 6 screws with a 5/16 inch nut driver. Make sure the lid gasket is in full contact all the way around. Remove any ice interfering with the lid gasket mating properly. Install new hinge using the original screws. Have somebody hold up the lid and tighten the spring nut with a deep 1/2 inch socket gradually until the lid stays up by itself.

I order another one thanks

Used the flat edge of a screwdriver, which caused me to break off the corners of the plastic shield. Be nice if their was a tool to grab the anchors to pull them out

Needed a Phillips head screwdriver to remove bottom plate (kick panel). UNPLUGGED FREEZER. Removed plate pulled switch out through the mounting hole and unhooked the two electric wires. Placed wires on new switch, pushed wires back through the hole and seated the switch. Plugged in the freezer and opened the door - magic, the light came on. Replaced the front kick panel (hardest part was to line up the plate holes with the holes in the mounting bracket).

Removed existing part, tested it, found it to be defective. OrderEd a new one and replaced the existing one.

Removed shelves ,removed panel on interior back wall with Philips screwdriver ,unplugged wire terminals slid thermostat off coil ,then reversed process to complete installation.

After removing the key from its shipping package I pushed it into the freezer locking slot and turned it to lock and unlock the lid and then removed it. I had no problems with this fix. Of course, I am an older gentleman with a lot of experience in repairs around my house,as well as other houses. I am sure that a less experienced person may have more of problem with this type of "repair".

easy change less than 10 min

I removed the plate (recommend using a magnetic phillips head screw driver to remmove screws which are recessed). I removed the old part and pushed the new part through the hole and carefully reached in behindto attach the wires to the new part.

removed the screws/nuts; pulled the back panel off, removed the old thermostat (wires just popped apart) replaced the new thermostat (wires just popped back on) replaced the back panel and the nuts and TaDa!!

Had to remove all screws on rear back cover of freezer inside, unplugged refridgerator, uncliped thermostat, unpluged thermostat. Replaced thermostat with new one in the same location, and let defrost fulley. Reassembled, pluged in, and tested. All was good. But I did also replace timer at first part of the repair so I suggest you replace both at the same time.

I removed the shelves in the freezer, took out the five 1/4" screws and lifted off the cover. It was a simple matter of using a blow drier to remove all the ice, then unplugging the two wires and unclipping the thermostat from the upper cooling tube. Then clipped the new one on and reconnecting the two wires.

Works great!!!

Removed the back panel in freezer compartment with the nut-driver. Then I cut off old thermostat connections, and spliced in new thermostat connections (repairman had already replaced defrost timer, and said not to trust connectors included on wires-they failed often). Then I snapped thermostat itself onto cooler coil. So far so good, fridge is running at 35-40 degrees a week later. Thanks Parts-Select!!!

I used the tool at Partselect that in theory allows diagnostic of the problem to be repaired. The result was that more tan 90% of the time with the introduced symptoms it had to be the thermostat. I order the part, got it quickly and installed. It did not fix the problem. So, be careful with the diagnostic tool, because it is just based on what most people buy when they have a particular problem. Videos for installation are great. If diagnosis was better, this would be fantastic. In my case there might be a different problem.

First the freezer was unplugged. Then the two screws (behind little plastic covers) holding the face plate inside the freezer had to be removed. The two hex head screws holding the mounting piece for the cooling coil were removed and the unit exposed. The side rails and wire basket in the freezing compartment were removed to allow next to allow access to the bottom of the cooling coil. After unplugging the electrical connectors on each end of the defroster element, the two straps holding it to the cooling coil were untied and the element removed. Installation and reassembly were the reverse of the removal procedure. A hint to anyone doing this repair is to use several bags of ice to speed the return to desired freezing temp. once the repair is complete.