25322042410 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

I removed the back cover and removed the clip holding the compressor- run capacitor and start relay. I replaced these 2 components and clean the dust from the frig., and from the bottom of the floor. I replaced the back cover ; Loss about $300 worth of meat when when the frig. failed. Then I thought that, during these turbulent times, there are many which don't have a refrigerator or any meat to place in it, The refrigerator is "running" normal again.

I removed the shelves, unscrewed the cover panel of the fan motor and regulator dial, disconnected the fan motor from power, unscrewed 2 screws holding the motor to the mounting bracket and put the new motor in it's place. New motor had no thread in the mounting holes, so I put new tread in so I could use the 2 screws. Another option would have been to drill all the way through the mounting holes and use longer screws or bolts. Of course I turned the power off before I started repairs. Freezer runs like new now. Technicians wanted $400 for the job, while it cost me a mere $55 for the Motor.

Removed the old defrost timer by removing 4 screws on the holding bracket. Disconnected the wire harness. Reconnected the wire harness to the new part. Installed the new part with 2 screws on the top of the molded bracket. I am a 67 year old woman... easy-peasy. (the defost timer is located in the bottom left rear of the freezer.

Bought the defrost timer based on PartSelect recommendations, installed it and no change. Apparently the old one was fine but since the refrigerator was in a flood and this part got submerged in water I kept it rather than returning it. I looked at everything closely and realized all the mechanical functions were working properly. Rarely does a condenser coil fail so I decided to look into recharging the coolant. Bought a 1/4 inch bullet valve, a 12oz. can of R-134a and a cheap resealable can adapter with hose, gauge and R22 to R-134a adapters. After a $30. investment Bingo, after one squirt the refrigerator began to cool and after 4oz. it now works better than new. I understand that PartSelect is in the business of selling only their parts but please consider that there can be other simple problems.

From discussions with friends, I determined the problem might be easy to fix. The fridge made a lot of noise, but the compressor DID come on, and inside the freezer was cold, but the main fridge was warming.

After unplugging the fridge, I removed the fan assembly in the freezer (there were about 4 nuts and a couple of plugs to uncouple.

I could see right away the fan blades has broken off, but the motor looked good. The new new fan pushed easily onto the shift and fit perfectly in the housing.

I reinstalled the fan assembly, plugged in the fridge, and right away heard the new fan come on - very quietly. What was a roar became a whisper and the fridge was down to 38 degrees with a few hours.

I order another one thanks

1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker.
2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,.
3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket.
4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel.
5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.

The old defrost timer started making a screeching noise (probably bearings going out). The replacement part was a cinch to install. When I initially spoke to a PartsSelect person, they said the part number I gave them was not consistent with my old '94 Tappan Freezer. They were able to still find the proper replacement part number. The video that was on-line helpful also.

Removed the inside evaporator coil to do inside solder job, use torch to heat solder joints on the outside drier in order to remove it and install new drier. Soldered Heat exchanger line to drier and 1/4” copper line to compressor. Wrapped with new insulation wrap. Pulled a vacuum on system and then charged with 4.4 ounces of 134a freon. Works like a champ again!

After removing the key from its shipping package I pushed it into the freezer locking slot and turned it to lock and unlock the lid and then removed it. I had no problems with this fix. Of course, I am an older gentleman with a lot of experience in repairs around my house,as well as other houses. I am sure that a less experienced person may have more of problem with this type of "repair".

The timer in this older unit is clearly exposed at the back of the freezer underneath the freezer compartment. It is attached with two Phillips head screws. After the screws are removed, the timer can be unplugged and the new one plugged in. The new timer has an extra flange to allow it to be used on more than one model of freezer. In order to mount the timer in this unit, you have to remove the extra flange by carefully cutting it away from the timer body, in similar fashion to what's depicted in the online video. This will allow you to mount the new timer to the mounting plate using the two screws from the old timer.

-got friend
-got step stool
-removed upper hing w/3/8 nut driver
-lifted door vertically off of lower hing pin (w/friend)
-removed and replaced broken nylon washer
-lifted door back onto lower pin hing hole
-while friend holds door reinstall upper hing bracket with 3/8 nut driver
-had cup of coffee

First unplug freezer, then disconnected wires from timer.
Removed 2 screws from bracket holding time to freezer.
Attached New part with screws. .The mounting bracket is now part of New time. Reattach wires.
I let coils defrost and then plugged it.

I recommend completing steps 1-3 before purchasing your part, so as to avoid my mistakes.

1) Unplug the freezer and clear whatever is currently in the door. This fix is fast enough you don't need to empty the whole freezer.

2) Use a socket wrench to remove the two bolts holding the top hinge to the freezer. Once they're off, the hinge can pulled up and off.

3) Lift the door free from the bottom hinge. Important Note! Check that it's the door closing cam that's broken, and not, for example, the bearing that seats with the door cam that is listed on the freezer part of the schematic, and not the door part. If you're a smarty pants, you order(ed) the right part. If you're me, you continue with this tutorial but still need to order another part to complete the fix. Don't be like me.

4) Using your philips-head screwdriver, remove the screw holding the remnants of the old door cam to the bottom of the door. Pull out the old cam and insert the new one. Rescrew.

5) Grab your extra person put of your toolbox and have them help you guide the door back onto the bottom hinge. The door is not heavy but no one wants to play blind Battleship while your freezer contents actively defrost.

6) Stick the top hinge back into place and reattach the bolts.

7) PLUG YOUR FREEZER BACK IN! And also check that the door works now.

Removed the top hinge, took the door off ,swapped out the new parts