2535436240P Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I located the part that was the culprit as it had buzzed very much before quitting. This is an easy removal as the part is in a two prong jack and just needs to be carefully removed with the new part inserted back in the jack provided. The refrigerator works fine now, but the run capacitor will still buzz on start up of the compressor. I do hope this is normal in this model? anyway it runs fine mow. Thank you.

The most difficult part was the removal of the existing fan and shroud. There is very little room to work between the condenser and the coils where the fan is located. The old shroud had to be removed as it was not compatible with the mounting for the new fan motor and blade. Make sure to unplug the refrigerator and give the coils some time to cool down. The first step was to remove the old fan blade... it simply pulls off. Next you need to remove the two bolts holding the fan shroud to the floor of the refrigerator. Then you need to remove the old fan motor from the shroud... unplug the wire connection and remove two small bolts that hold it on. I was lucky to have a VERY small ratchet to get into these tight spaces. Now is the really hard part, removing the metal fan shroud takes a lot of twisting and turning to get it out. The coils have a little play in them, but you must be very careful of the tubing and connections. Also, the coils are very sharp. Once this is out, IF you can get it out....I had my doubts along the way, you can start to put the new parts in... beginning with the new fan shroud which fortunately is made of plastic and has some give which makes it easier to get in. Then you can mount the new motor to the shroud with the three new screws. Plug in the wire connection, add the foam tape to the shroud and mount the shroud to the floor of the frig with the original two bolts. Lastly, attach the fan blade. This replacement kit is well constructed, fits perfectly and contained all the necessary parts (fan motor with wiring connection, mounting screws, wire connection adapter, fan shroud, foam tape and fan blade), but no detailed instructions come with it. I was lucky to get the old fan shroud out without doing any damage to the surrounding parts, but this part was very difficult for a do it yourself person. I would be interested to know if a professional has some other tips for this part of the replacement process.

Super easy. That was super cool and saved me $500.00.

A plastic guide rail broke after the meat keeper drawer was left open and the refrigerator door was shut on the drawer, this has happened a few times over the last 6 years. We chose to change out both rails at the same time. We removed the meatkeeper drawer, then the shelf above as the rails are attached to the shelf. We removed the rails (one screw on each side. When the new rails came in, we replaced them with the screws. Super easy!

First I removed the door. Took off the broken parts and replaced them. Easy and fast to repair.

Unplugged fridge from outlet. Removed rear panel on freezer side. Removed defrost thermostat from tube and cut wires. Installed new thermostat by matching color coded wires and crimping with supplied connectors and snap back on tube. Reinstalled panel and shelving.

Removed stuff on door, removed 2 screws on top of door, lifted door off replaced one door closure/hinge bearing and one door closing plate and put door back on and wala no more thump.

Silly me. It couldn't possibly be the filter because it's worked for the last 9 months with no problems. Decided to replace the water filter base first. Repair was easy. I saw someone had trouble removing tubes from old base and I gave it a couple of tries to no avail so decided to cut the lines instead. Made it even easier. After repair, water continued to leak. So, replaced the filter itself and voila - leak fixed. Make sure you check the filter first. My mistake turned a $40 - 10 second repair into a $100 - 20 minute repair. Good Luck!

Went the typical route of part replacement since I don't own an ohm meter...pull and replace one part at a time. Started with the cheaper parts first, replaced the freezer fan for $40, same problem. Replaced the defrost heater element for $40, same problem. Replaced the thermostat $15 and controller board $150 at same time, bingo problem solved. Had to defrost with the hair dryer each time, biggest pain. Had an issue finding a Utube that showed the water filter system and thermistor removal for this model, otherwise straightforward, but not a 30 minute job.

First I removed two screws per rail and removed the old rails. I replaced with the new rails and used a nutdriver to secure in place. This was extremely easy and I fell like my fridge is brand new again.
You can do it!!!

The retaining wire keeping the starter in place was first removed then the starter was easily removed. Pulling the old wire off was a little difficult because I had to pull harder than I expected. Getting the wire back on was probably the hardest part. I had to compress one part of the plug so I could get it to fit back on then it was simply a matter of placing the starter back in position and replacing the wire that holds it snugly in place. 20 minutes or so start to finish and new starter works well.

I removed the door by removing the top screw from the plastic cover, then slide it forward, then remove the two screws that hold the hinge on and then lifting the door off, once off the lower nylon hinge bearing comes right out of the door, the plate is removed with a screw driver. Installed in reverse order and cluncking was gone. 15 mins

Remove the housing holding the sensors and actuador. The white sensor tape came off the command console, however this was easily replaced by removing the console cover and inserted the tape back. At first the fridge console (lights) did not respond, removed the tape again and re-installed the right way. The most difficult part was trying to push the small hose to fit through the housing and stay in place. In the beginning water was coming out through several places, but removed the housing again, fudgec with the little hose until it fitted snuggly into water dispensing opening. Replaced housing again, screwed all little screws and repair work was complete. The most difficult part was getting a tool that would allow you to guide the hose. Used a fine small plyer to pull through.
Works perfectly now.

First I loosened the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...re-installed the new icemaker first attaching the wires and then fitting over the screw holders and tightened the screws. That was it!

removed ice maker box and disassembled crusher unit on front of box and installed new housing.