2599A Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

First I turned the water off behind the refrigerator....took the ice maker inlet valve off, put on the new one. As simple as that & it is working beautifully....not only am I a woman but 55 yrs. young too!
With the right part & right tools NOTHING is impossible & I saved myself a repair persons fee!!!

This was the third icemaker replaced since January 1999. Improvement need to be made in the design of the icemaker so that more than 2-3 years of life is available.
The most difficult part was disconnecting the power plug in the back of the icemaker. You must squeeze the upper and lower tabs together and pull out at the same time to disconnect. Once this is done, take out one nut head screw, lift up on the icemaker and remove from the hanger. Be careful that you don't break the plastic tabs on the hangers. Replace new icemaker in reverse, feed water supply where it must go in the back, resnap onto hangers, replace the nut head screw and snap in the power plug. It took about 2 hours before the icemaker began making ice. It has been working fine ever since. PS. I saved about $200.00 over having a repairman come in and replace the unit.

Tried to repair existing valve which I have succesfully done many times by cleaning and removing grit from internal neoprene parts until new parts received. Was not successful. New valve worked perfectly. this is only 2nd repair needed on this ref. since new. 1st was defrost timer. Ice maker hasn't missed a lick since new.

removed old ice maker by taking out a couple of screws in the back of freezer,when new ice maker arrived i saw that it didn't have the same hose apparatus as old one so I easily took apart old one then took apart new one and switched them out-very-- easily done for a 61 yr old lady I might add-- also had to reinstall ice maker arm off old ice maker as new one does not come with one Then installed new ice maker in freezer I am very very pleased,sure saved a lot of money doing it my self

The door seals arrived in good condition, I followed the instruction and unpacked the door seals and straighten them out on the floor. I left them over night to climates. First I empty all the door compartments of food. I then used socket driver and loosened all the hex nut screws around the door. Do not remove the screws. Removed the door seal by pulling it out of the door seal clamp. Once removed clean the door seal clamp and door. Now start at the top and put the door seal into the top door seal clamp. Then work on both sides of the door pushing the seal into the clamp. Finally stretch the seal and insert the bottom section into the door seal clamp. Check and make sure the seal is properly installed around the door seal clamp and the fit is even. Start at the bottom and tighten the bottom screws. Then start tightening the sides and finally the top screws. Make sure there are no wrinkles. If there is undo the screws and reposition the door seal. This is an easy install but takes about 2 hours to do.

Shut off the water supply at the wall then using a 1/4" nut driver I removed the steel and cardboard backing plates from the rear of the refrigerator. Disconnect the main water supply hose and then the two water lines for the chilled water dispenser and ice maker. Remove the two screws on a support bracket which holds the valve in place.
Reassembly in reverse order.
The process was very easy and took no longer than 15 minutes and works just like new. This is a good time to do some thorough cleaning around the fan and coils to keep them working properly as well.

Removed the 3 screws that hold the ice maker in place and remove the cover and level wire. Put the cover and wire on new part and install the 3 screws. Had ice within 1 hour. A very easy job for the do it yourselfer. Suspect the heat coil that melts the cubes was not working in the old unit and cubes stayed in the tray.

Reassembled auger assembly to new ice bucket with new screws. Fairly simple and straight forward.

0. Tools required: small Phillips screw driver and a normal length 3/16th inch Nut Driver. Some duct tape would be handy as well - for securing the wiring housing out of the way.

1. Unplug the refrigerator or trip the controlling circuit breaker to remove the possibility of an unpleasant surprises such as electrical shock, electrical arc, further damage to the refrigerator, burns to yourself, or death.

3. Remove the two small Philips-head screws located on the under side of the bezel surrounding the ice and water dispenser.

3. Carefully lift, pull, and remove the bezel.

4. Note the locations and relative positions of all the components behind the bezel. A digital photograph (or three) from various angles for future reference when reassembling the dispenser would be a good idea - if a camera is available.

3. Remove the two screws that hold the plastic housing and metal shroud containing wiring and switches. Tape the shroud and housing together and tie or tape it out of the way. If you ignored step #1, make sure you tape both the plastic tray and the metal shroud together as they were installed so that you cover any exposed wires or connectors inside the plastic housing. All the switches will still be "hot" and can cause the dispensers to activate at unexpected and mostly inconvenient times.

4. Slip the ice door damper spring (wire loop) off the ice door mechanism. Do not abruptly push or pull on the damper spring loop when it is disconnected from the door mechanism - you may damage it.

5. Remove the two screws that hold the retaining tabs in place for the water dispenser activator; the two screws that hold the retaining tabs in place for the ice dispenser activator; and the two screws that hold the spring-loaded ice door-closing mechanism in place. That is a total of six screws: four retaining tab screws for the activators and the two screws retaining the spring-loaded ice door mechanism.

6. Slip the water dispenser activator arm down, off the water feed tube, and put it aside.

7. Remove the ice dispenser activator arm and spring-loaded ice door- closing mechanism as a unit and note how it is fitted together. Then remove and put aside the ice door and closing mechanism. Save the spring-loaded ice door closing mechanism for reinstallation with the new dispenser

8. Reinstall the new water dispenser activator arm over the water feed tube and reinstall the metal tabs and tab retaining screws.

9. Assemble the new ice dispenser arm and the existing spring-loaded ice door- closing mechanism as you noted it to be during the disassembly process.

10. Reinstall the new ice dispenser activator arm and spring-loaded ice door closing mechanism. It seemed easier to secure the dispenser activator with the screws and metal tabs first and then the spring-loaded ice door closing mechanism.

11. Reinstall the plastic housing containing the electrical components and the metal shroud and secure in place with the two screws that were removed in Step #3. Restore electrical power to the system.

12. Test both the water dispenser and ice dispenser for proper operation. If both dispensers appear to operate correctly, reinstall the bezel with the two small Philips screws and you are done.

13. If either of the dispensers does not work, you will have to trouble shoot the problem. A common problem seemed to be that the activator arm was not making contact with the switch in the plastic housing. You will have to go back and ensure that all the components are properly installed - there are no other adjustments and simply pushing harder on the actuator may break the newly installed part.

All the screws and components are easily accessible, so I think that the entire repair process should take about 30 to 45 minutes unless Step 12 fails and Step 13 is required. Then it may take a couple hours to figure out and get things set right.

First of all I want to thank Michael from Carlisle,PA and this site for publishing Michael's info on the wiring specifics on the new 3 connector Start Relay ( WP2262185 ). The original relay only has 2 connectors The 2 orange wires which are combined to one female connector need to be clipped and separated each to its own connector. Refer to Michael's blog as to which wire goes to which connector on the Start Relay. I replaced the Run Capacitor, Start Relay and Overload just to be safe. The Start Relay was the actual culprit.Thank you for an excellent website!

Replaced the relay and capacitor it runs.

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

Pulled out the fridge fro the wall, unpluged it, turned off the water supply to the house, disconnected the water line to the part, installed new part and re-attached the wires and ground, turned on the water - no leaks, plugged in the fridge - ice maker begand to fill and has continued to work.

Easy as pie. Will contact you again if I have other appliance problems.

Paul M, Seattle WA

Remove two screws from top door hinge.
Remove door from unit
Remove old broken plastic cam 1 screw
Replace new door cam tighten 1 screw
Reinstall door and top hinge screws.