36359527997 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

There were not two screws as the instructions said. There was only one screw and I had to firmly pull it out after taking out the one screw. Then, to put the new one in, I had to line up two slots on two knob-like things and push it in firmly. Then screw the one screw in.

Other than the two-screw problem, it was easy.

The replacement ice maker that GE supplies for my old refrigerator is a little different than the original. The electrical plug changed from a round plug to a square one. They include an adapter for it, but DON'T USE IT. There's not enough room for the bulky cord and connector. I got a much cleaner installation by taking apart the old and the new ice maker, and then splicing in the old connector into the new ice maker. You need to carefully unscrew a circuit board inside to wire it in, and it'll be more secure if you solider 3 wires instead of using crimp connectors. The instructions also tell you to use your old 'ice breaker', but it won't fit on the new ice maker. I just left the new ice maker's ice breaker on, and it seems to work perfect.

Unplugged frig. Turned off water supply to pump. Removed black cardboard covering on back of frig with nut driver (6 screws).

Took digital photo of assembly to confirm reassembly position.

Removed copper waterline to pump with adjustable wrench. Removed 1 screw holding pump assembly to refrigerator. Pulled assembly out of the frig. Unscrewed two small black screws on a second bracket. Pulled old pump further out of frig. Unplugged two connectors. Removed plastic waterline from pump by turning hose counter-clockwise and gently pulling.

Inserted plastic water line into new pump by turning line in clockwise and it pushing into orange plastic stop. Reconnected two electrical connectors. Reconnected bracket to pump with two small black screws. Gently pushed assembly back into the frig and reconnected pump assembly to the frig with 1 screw. Reconnected copper water line to pump first wrapping threads on pump with Teflon plumbers tape.

Turned on water to check for leaks. Installed cardboard back on frig with 6 screws. Plugged in frig.

NOTE. My new pump assembly had the electrical connectors reversed. Take care to pair up the correct colored connectors.

Unplugged refrigerator from electrical outlet for safety and turned off water supply valve. Removed the four metal screws that hold the access cover on the rear of the refrigerator. Then removed single metal screw attaching water valve and bracket assembly. Unplugged wire harness from the water valve and assembly then pressed down on colored o-rings to detach the four plastic water lines from the water valves. Used open end wrench to disconnect main water supply line from the water valve.
Pressed down on colored O-rings to install the four plastic water lines to new water valve and bracket assembly. Wrapped plumbing tape on threads of inlet valve and and used open end wrench to attach main water supply line to new water valve and bracket assembly. Attached wiring harness to new water valve and bracket assembly. Mounted new assembly to refrigerator with single metal screw. Turned on water supply valve and checked for leaks. Plugged in refrigerator to electrical outlet and tested water dispenser. Replaced access cover on rear of refrigerator with four mounting screws.

Frig and freezer were defrosting and refreezing other than normal. Home warranty contractor told me ice maker was faulty. Purchased new ice maker. Unplugged frig, loosened 2 screws with nut driver. unplugged old ice maker, lifted old ice maker out. Took old fill cup off old unit and put on new unit since new fill cup was a different size. Swapped ice maker insert from old to new unit. Plugged in new ice maker, slid over the 2 screws, tightened, and plugged in frig power. New ice maker works fine but still have defrosting and refreezing problem. Figure old ice maker probably works just fine. New contractor still trying to solve problem. Have had problems with this GE Monagram keeping proper temps since it was new in 2005, don't recommend it.

The leak was obvious and I took out the cardboard backing. I closed the valve (water supply) to the water dispenser and ice maker.

With the screw drivers and socket set, I was able to take out the old valve and disconnect the hoses.

Since the part was identical to the leaky valve it was just a matter of reversing the steps. I had previously researched on the web to find the identical part and found a match at Partselect.com. I wish all my repair attempts turn out to be this easy. I wish GE had used better parts since this incident has set me back by several thousand dollars due to the water damage to the wooden floors, basement ceiling and walls.

unscrewed old filter by hand, installed new filter.

Isolated water line. Remove water valve from harness. Disconnect water connections. Disconnect electrical connections. Removed valve. Installed new part. Reconnected water connections and electrical connections. Opened water line.

Unplug the refrigerator. Move things to gain access to the bottom back of the refrigerator. Take care in movement of refrigerator not to kink or loosen the ice maker water supply line. Use nut driver (best), screw driver, or socket to take off 6 screws holding the cardboard cover (air access for the fan). Remove the old fan blade with fingers and light pressure with a screw driver, it will snap right off. The new blade comes with a ringed compression fitting so you need not buy the new one that is shown on the schematic diagram. Push the new blade on the fan shaft far enough to allow the shaft to protrude from the front side of the new blade-that is what holds it in place and you should feel a little snap when it is inserted far enough. Caution: Do not vacuum around the blade or try to reinstall the cardboard cover while the fan is running. I broke two of them while doing just that, they are very brittle. Recover with cardboard and you're done!

Replacing the heater is very easy. Remove the wire racks and the two lower rack bracket screws. Remove the two screws to the back panel, unclip the ground wire and remove the panel. Two screws hold he heater on and two wires for the connection.
However, this did not solve my problem. The story is this. The fridge was getting warm because the coils were freezing over. I called the local repair guys "poncho and lefty" and they came out and replace the themostat and charged me $150. It still froze over a week later. They came back and said it must be the circuit board and charged me just for the $125 part. Nope, it still froze over in a week. So I thought I would take things into my own hands and tell poncho and left to hit the trail. I then ordered a new heater because the old one looked bad even though it checked out okay with an ohm meter. Unfortunately, that didn't solve the problem either. The last thing is to replace are the temp sensors. But before I ordered anything I submitted my problem to a "fix it" forum and someone suggested to check the part number of the themostat that was put in. This turned out to be a brilliant observation. It seems poncho and lefty replace the thermostate with one that is used with a timer. This fridge has the timer built into the circuit board and has a very different temp range than the one they replace it with. Their first clue should have been that the wires were a different color than the one they were replacing and that the part number was totally different than the one they took out. So I ordered a new thermostat and the three temp sensors and replace all of this and the unit works as good as new. The forum also told me that the bullet shaped temp sensor were faulty and should all be replaced, which I did.
Now I have all new parts, so it should be good to go until the compressor takes a nose dive. Hopefully, that will not be for 5 or 6 more years.

The OEM auger pitted and rusted. My ice was coming out brown. I had cleaned it before, but in no time is was back to 'spiced' ice cubes. I cleaned the entire ice bucket and disassembled, ordered the part and re-assembled. Now the disassembly was a different day than the assembly. It's a good thing the parts diagram was on the web, I am no Thomas Edison when putting things back together. It is pretty general though. I sand blasted the tin cover and re-painted before buying a new one. That had rusted too. Before that expense, I thought I would try it. Be careful of the bucket as it can crack. I am not sure when mine was cracked, but I noticed it this time. If you are contemplating the purchase of a new auger - don't. The new one is stainless and the old steel and chrome is a joke. The inside of the freezer where the bracket spins the auger is rusty too and the old auger will rust again in no time. Buy a new one for under $50 shipped to your door. Another note, be sure to remember what screws came from what hole. It will eliminate the guess work when assembling. Also, the spring on the arm that controls the crushed ice function, note the position before tearing apart.

Shut off power to the refrige. Removed old icemaker, using large hammer. Installed new unit.

The repair is easy, just pop the grill off around the ice and water door, then there are 4 screwws to take out so the touch pad can be moved out of the way to unsnap the old door assm. and snap in the new one and wait about a year and a hald to order another one!!!!!

This is a sibe-by-side refrigerator/freezer that needed a new lower hinge set for the fridge door.

First I removed everything from inside the fridge door, closed it, then loosened the top hinge bolts with an 8mm socket on a 1/4-inch ratchet. Using an 8mm nutdriver, I removed one bolt and loosed the other just far enough to be able to lift the hinge and swing it out of the way. (These bolts are long. The nutdriver is faster than the ratchet but you need a ratchet or a wrench to first break them loose.) Then I just lifted the door off the bottom hinge and set it aside.

The plastic lower front grill was covering the lower hinge but that grill is just held at the ends by spring clamps -- popped off easily so I could get to the hinge bolts. Again, 8mm bolts, just remove & replace hinge. I also had to replace the upper half of the door closer cam, which is screwed to the bottom of the door, being careful that the holes lined up: cam, shim, door holes.

Now the tricky part was lifitng the door back on the lower hinge. (It helps to have an assistant at the bottom to locate the hole for you.) Once the door was up, I swung the top hinge over, ran the two bolts in finger tight with my nutdriver, checked & adjusted the spacing* of the fridge door and tightened the bolts. This was all very easy! (*^_^*)

*On a side-by-side, you'll want the door to be straight up & down with a consistent gap top to bottom with the freezer door. The hinge has some slack for adjustment by positioning the door, then tightening the bolts. You'll see what I mean.

Pull fridge out and turned water supply off. Removed four screws to take shield off back of fridge. Unscrewed assembly part from fridge. Turned water on slightly to identify leak and identified leak in valve system. Shut water back off and ordered replacement part. When part came, removed water line from assembly; moved electrical and water hose connections from existing part to new part one by one to be sure t they were in correct place. (To remove water lines, push o ring toward the assembly and pull hose out. To put into new bracket, merely slide in and they will lock in place) Fasten water line on new part using teflon tape. Turn on water slowly to check for leaks. Attach back to fridge and replace shield. VERY EASY!!