41272 - Instructions

Disassembled washer, replaced bearings, seals and gasket. Watched instructional video to familiarize myself with the repair. Followed all steps as recommended, repair was straight forward without any surprises. Hardest part was removing the drum from the machine, somewhat heavy. Disassembled and replaced all bearings, seals, spider and gasket. Reinstalled in reverse order. Note: Upon tear down, I found the seal was pushed out, causing the bearing failure. I also found that the seal was installed incorrectly from LG. They have the seal lip facing the bearings, should be facing the water. This repair seems to be difficult, but was fairly self explanatory. All plug ins are color coded, all hoses are accessible with little effort. If you have basic skills you should be able to handle this repair.

you tube it , not to hard to install

I actually did the repair exactly as the video showed. If I would have had the part at the time of discovering the problem it would have been about a 45 minute repair from start to finish. Worst part of the whole fix was moving the heavy washer.

Figured out how to take off top of washer, look inside for problem, ordered new part, watched video how to replace part. All on line. $65.00 later and my 19 yr old washer is still working awesome.

Unplug and disconnect water lines. Move washer out. I used soapy water to make it easier to slide because it is stacked washer and dryer. Slid dryer onto large trash can saving my back. So easy. Make sure it is heavy duty . Removed lid. Removed old part by removing to screws in back. Disconnected 3 wires, disconnected one hose at a time while reattaching each one to new part. That way I was sure to get them back in the right place. Attached back to machine . Put water hoses back on and checked for leaks before but lid and dryer back in place. Ta da!! This was so easy. I am a 57 year old woman and this was pretty simple. I tried trouble shooting by using tub cleaner and everything as manual suggested but it still leaked. Watch a lot of you tube. Apparently lg has this happen with this part a lot. Thank you parts select. I’m sure this saved me a lot of money. I have had enough money bleeding from my pockets with bigger home problems. Thank you.

The video from PartSelect showed removing the retaining ring from the rubber washer tub boot to then allow access the door lock located behind the boot for replacement. That ring can sometimes be a real pain to put back on. This can be avoided altogether!

It's much easier to access the door lock switch by removing the two retaining screws on the top cover of the washer found in the back of the machine. Remove the top cover and you can then reach down to remove the wiring connector, unscrew the two phillips screws on the front of the door latch and remove the door lock. Put the new switch on in reverse order; plug in the connector, replace all screws and the top cover, and you are done! This method took than 10 minutes from start to finish.

Please note that the washer should be unplugged from power while working on any electrical component.

Followed the video supplied by this site and everything was as described!

2 hose clamps and a hose, easy! This would be a very common cause of leaks in washers due to all the movement inside.

From previous experiences with other washers, i.e., Sears, I decided it was the mother board or the door latch component. Ordered the electronics and then the discovery that LG has an APP for iPhone. Loaded the app, placed the phone next the washer and pushed the button on the washer. The washer "talked" to the iPhone and within 15 seconds it told me there was a problem with the thermistor. Opened the back of the washer and looked under the tub for the thermistor and found the 2 connecting wires were hanging loose. Put the wires back into the thermistor connection and everything was back working.

remove 2 screws from top panel - pull top panel back and lift off washer. reach down on front side and remove wire harness that is attached to door lock assembly. remove the 2 screws on front of door lock,remove and replace with new assembly. attach wire harness and then tighten assembly with the 2 screws. replace top of washer panel and tighten with 2 screws.

Just removed the top cover only. Reached down and unplugged the door switch. Then removed the switch with 2 phillips head screws. Replaced with new switch. Reached down and plugged that new switch in. Problem solved!

YouTube is your friend for many such repairs. See this link for an overall description:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WuvLuC8x4_s

I had to remove the top panel to determine exactly which valve was leaking. It turned out both hot and cold-water valves were defective.

After unit is unplugged and top is removed, it's a simple matter to remove/replace hose connections and electrical connections. It took me less than an hour to complete the task once parts were in hand.

Again, YouTube is your friend for such repairs.

Took the sealing ring off the gasket, unscrewed the door lock with two screws. Unplugged it. Plugged the new one in, screwed it back in. Put the ring back on and it started right up.

After watching the video for installation of the bellow, I followed the suggested repair method and was able to repair my washer.

Hardest part of the job was getting the washer away from the wall. :)
Disconnect power & water
Remove top panel, two screws at back
Remove two screws holding valve to washer body
Use pliers to loosen and pull back spring clamps on three water tubes
Remove tubes by twisting and pulling
Reverse process to install new valve.

I am convinced that the original valve began leaking because I had heard water hammer for years as that valve opened and closed during operation. I bought two water hammer arrestors (less than $30) that attach inline with the inlet hoses and I think that will prevent the problem from recurring.