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Model numbers can be made up of numbers (1005400, for example) or a combination of letters and numbers (LAT1000AAE). The model number will most likely appear on either a paper sticker or a metal plate. Your appliance's model number tag may look similar to the sample model number tags shown here (model number highlighted in yellow):
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This rear drum bearing kit is designed for use with dryers. It supports the rear of the drum in your appliance as it tumbles your clothes during the drying cycle. If your drum will not tumble, or if i...
This white drum glide is used in a clothes dryer to ensure the front of the dryer drum is supported as it does rotations. *Please note: these are sold individually, however there are two of these in y...
This dryer lint screen is for laundry centers.
Dryer lint screen captures lint and debris from the exhaust air flowing from the dryer.
Follow the instructions in the owner's manual when installing this part.
The multi-rib drum belt is also known as a drive belt and is a part for your dryer. The function of the drum belt is to attach to the motor pulley. It will then spin the drum as the motor rotates. Ove...
The lower front felt seal with adhesive, also known as a drum felt seal, is used in dyers and allows the drum to easily glide on the front panel. For this repair project, you will need the following t...
This high limit thermostat is used in a dryer and monitors the temperature to make sure it does not exceed 260 degrees Fahrenheit. When your dryer temperature reaches 260 it will cut it out and only c...
The upper felt seal for your dryer is attached to the top edge of the drum support area, and is held there by a high temperature adhesive. It creates a seal where the dryer door opens and closes, so t...
The door strike is attached to the door of your dryer and holds the door closed. If your dryer door is not closing, this might be due to the door strike needing to be replaced. This is a simple repair...
This is a replacement screw for your washer or dryer. The screw is approximately half an inch in length and is a Phillips-head screw. It screws in from the outside of the drum, into the vane/baffle. T...
This idler pulley assembly is a manufacturer-approved replacement part for your washer/dryer. The assembly includes the idler pulley and arm. The idler pulley provides tension for the belt to rotate t...
$48.95
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Questions And Answers for 41761733811
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1. Unplug dryer from outlet 2. Using Lg. flat screwdriver, pry under the front edge of the top and release two spring tabs 3. Lift up top and tilt back out of your way 4. Unscrew two phillips scews on inside of front panel 5. Lift up and out the front panel. Two spring clips at bottom. 6. Rlease tension on drum be
... Read morelt at the motor. Access panel at rear of dryer. 7.Unscrew 3 screws from inside, center rear of drum. 8. Remove drum through the front of the dryer. You may have to spread the sides apart a little bit for it to fit 9. Lift up on the rear drum bearing to remove it from the bearing retainer. ( U shaped plastic socket) 10. unsrew 2 screws and remove the bearing retainer, ground ball. Ball retainer is on outside of dryer. 11. Vacuum everything--duct, blower, lint trap, ect. 12. Intall new bearing retainer and grounding ball, an assistant is helpful at this time, one to hold ball retainer on rear of dryer, one to screw it in from the inside 13. reassemble remainder of parts in reverse order.
For the glide, I want to advise people that to replace the entire glide you need to order two front drum glide parts as each is only half.
First, unplug the dryer. Then, open the top so that you can get access to the work area. On each side of the inside front, there is a screw that connects the front panel to the side panels
... Read more. Unscrew those screws and pull the front panel until it disconnects from the side panels. Be careful as there are wires that are secured to the bottom of the top inside lip of the front panel. One set of wires goes to the light bulb in the dryer door. You don't need to disconnect the wires, but be sure you don't damage the wires by pulling the front panel too far away from the dryer.
Once you have the front panel out of the way, you can see the front drum glide. In my case, one half was loose as the plastic plugs that pop into recesses to hold the glide in place had broken off. Remove the damaged glide section and replace it with the new section, popping the plastic plugs into the recesses. Don't be afraid to slap the glide to lock the plugs in place.
For the felt, I cut the part of the old felt that was pulling away from the front panel. I then used a flat-head screwdriver and wire brush to remove as much of the old adhesive as I could. Then, using the high-heat adhesive that came with the new felt, I put a generous amount on the front panel where the felt needed to go. I used a toothpick to spread the adhesive to get maximum area coverage. I let it set for a minute or two, and then placed the new felt. I used small clamps to keep the felt in place until the adhesive had time to bond. I only kept the clamps in place for 10 minutes.
Once I removed the clamps, I let the felt continue to adhere to the front panel for 24 hours before reassembling the dryer. Again, be careful of the wires connected to the front panel as it appears very easy for them to be pinched or cut when putting the front panel back in place.
When the dryer was reassembled, I plugged it back in and have had no more troubles.
Unplugged the washer/dryer combo unit from the wall.
Slid the unit forward on plastic bags until back and side were accessible (being careful of the dryer duct and washer water lines).
Removed the vented plate on the back to access the motor and idler arm using a LARGE-HEADED Phillips-head screwdriver.
Pul
... Read moreled out the broken belt.
Removed 10 of the 11 screws holding the top on (leave the center front one; undo the front corners last, taking care not to let the front panel slip forward — it supports the drum).
Opened the dryer door and gently pulled the front plate forward, supporting the drum from the inside with one hand so it didn't fall.
Worked the belt around the drum and between the front of the drum and the front panel. Held it mostly taut around the drum to slide it back to the existing belt mark. Grooved rubber side of the belt goes on the inside.
Pushed the front panel back into position while seating the drum on it. Temporarily attached the top with two back and two front screws. (The front panel overlaps the top; the top goes over everything else.)
Scratched my head trying to figure out how the belt goes around the motor shaft and idler arm; searched the web; searched the web some more.
Routed the belt left-to-right over the idler arm pulley, pushed the idler arm to the left, routed the belt around the motor shaft and then up over the drum.
The idler arm should (a) press on the OUTSIDE of the belt, (b) take up all the slack in the belt, and (c) not touch the motor shaft (touching it is what causes the awful noise). The belt should contact the motor shaft past the two nut-like things on the shaft (not between them).
Plugged the unit in and turned the dryer on to test it.
Replaced the other 8 top screws; replaced the vented plate on the back.
Wondered how I ever took having a clothes dryer for granted.
