41761733811 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

1. Unplug dryer from outlet
2. Using Lg. flat screwdriver, pry under the front edge of the top and release two spring tabs
3. Lift up top and tilt back out of your way
4. Unscrew two phillips scews on inside of front panel
5. Lift up and out the front panel. Two spring clips at bottom.
6. Rlease tension on drum belt at the motor. Access panel at rear of dryer.
7.Unscrew 3 screws from inside, center rear of drum.
8. Remove drum through the front of the dryer. You may have to spread the sides apart a little bit for it to fit
9. Lift up on the rear drum bearing to remove it from the bearing retainer. ( U shaped plastic socket)
10. unsrew 2 screws and remove the bearing retainer, ground ball. Ball retainer is on outside of dryer.
11. Vacuum everything--duct, blower, lint trap, ect.
12. Intall new bearing retainer and grounding ball, an assistant is helpful at this time, one to hold ball retainer on rear of dryer, one to screw it in from the inside
13. reassemble remainder of parts in reverse order.

For the glide, I want to advise people that to replace the entire glide you need to order two front drum glide parts as each is only half.

First, unplug the dryer. Then, open the top so that you can get access to the work area. On each side of the inside front, there is a screw that connects the front panel to the side panels. Unscrew those screws and pull the front panel until it disconnects from the side panels. Be careful as there are wires that are secured to the bottom of the top inside lip of the front panel. One set of wires goes to the light bulb in the dryer door. You don't need to disconnect the wires, but be sure you don't damage the wires by pulling the front panel too far away from the dryer.

Once you have the front panel out of the way, you can see the front drum glide. In my case, one half was loose as the plastic plugs that pop into recesses to hold the glide in place had broken off. Remove the damaged glide section and replace it with the new section, popping the plastic plugs into the recesses. Don't be afraid to slap the glide to lock the plugs in place.

For the felt, I cut the part of the old felt that was pulling away from the front panel. I then used a flat-head screwdriver and wire brush to remove as much of the old adhesive as I could. Then, using the high-heat adhesive that came with the new felt, I put a generous amount on the front panel where the felt needed to go. I used a toothpick to spread the adhesive to get maximum area coverage. I let it set for a minute or two, and then placed the new felt. I used small clamps to keep the felt in place until the adhesive had time to bond. I only kept the clamps in place for 10 minutes.

Once I removed the clamps, I let the felt continue to adhere to the front panel for 24 hours before reassembling the dryer. Again, be careful of the wires connected to the front panel as it appears very easy for them to be pinched or cut when putting the front panel back in place.

When the dryer was reassembled, I plugged it back in and have had no more troubles.

Unplugged the washer/dryer combo unit from the wall.

Slid the unit forward on plastic bags until back and side were accessible (being careful of the dryer duct and washer water lines).

Removed the vented plate on the back to access the motor and idler arm using a LARGE-HEADED Phillips-head screwdriver.

Pulled out the broken belt.

Removed 10 of the 11 screws holding the top on (leave the center front one; undo the front corners last, taking care not to let the front panel slip forward — it supports the drum).

Opened the dryer door and gently pulled the front plate forward, supporting the drum from the inside with one hand so it didn't fall.

Worked the belt around the drum and between the front of the drum and the front panel. Held it mostly taut around the drum to slide it back to the existing belt mark. Grooved rubber side of the belt goes on the inside.

Pushed the front panel back into position while seating the drum on it. Temporarily attached the top with two back and two front screws. (The front panel overlaps the top; the top goes over everything else.)

Scratched my head trying to figure out how the belt goes around the motor shaft and idler arm; searched the web; searched the web some more.

Routed the belt left-to-right over the idler arm pulley, pushed the idler arm to the left, routed the belt around the motor shaft and then up over the drum.

The idler arm should (a) press on the OUTSIDE of the belt, (b) take up all the slack in the belt, and (c) not touch the motor shaft (touching it is what causes the awful noise). The belt should contact the motor shaft past the two nut-like things on the shaft (not between them).

Plugged the unit in and turned the dryer on to test it.

Replaced the other 8 top screws; replaced the vented plate on the back.

Wondered how I ever took having a clothes dryer for granted.

after removing the panel covering the dryer blower and removing the blower cover, i pulled the old blower wheel off and placed the new whell on carefully lining the flat edge of the wheel hole up with the flat edge on the blower piston, the n i placed the clamp on and put back all the housing covers and panels...and now my dryer runs quiet and drys cloths fast....thanks to partselect!!!!

I got online and found that everyone was charging a king's ransom for a piece of plastic. Your ransom was slightly less. Then I paid $7 shipping and handling for the part which came packed in a box six times its size...I guess all that cardboard costs a mint. I opened the box, removed the lint filter, and put it into my dryer....voila! No more holes!

first i used a flathead to lift up the top of the dryer. there were two prongs that you press in to detach the top.

then there were two screws on the inside along each side that i needed a phillips to remove. one screw on each side.

i also needed to detach a cable and cut the tie.
from there, it was easy to pull off the front of the dryer.

the first noticeable thing was HOW much lint there was inside! so out came the vacuum and away went all the dust and lint.. a TON of it.

then i used a sharp knife to remove all the existing upper and lower felt. that took awhile, and i got as much as i could.

then i applied the TOP felt, nice and center, and from there, the FELT was applied, which fit perfectly. I let it dry/set for about 2 hours.

for the Front drum glide, AN IMPORTANT NOTE! i ordered only ONE drum glide, but you need TWO! I had to order a second one, and i dont know why they dont come in pairs.. so the front drum glides snap on pretty easily to the front of the drum. press hard and they SNAP into place. once they are snapped on, you just put back on the front, replace the screws, re-connect and re-tie the cable, and close the lid!

First pry up on the front edge of the top panel of the dryer which is held in place by snap in clips. Pivot the top open and support against wall or other taking care not to pull on wiring harness. Next remove the 2 screws that hold the front panel in place. These are located on the inside of the front panel. The front then snaps loose also. Remove the plastic drum stop located at the top edge of the front of the dryer. Next I removed the 3 drum screws located inside at the back center of the dryer. Next you can you need to remove the belt the motor located at the rear vent panel on the back. Slide the now loose drum out exposing the rear bearing. With a 5/16 end wrench, loosen the 2 screws on either side of the bearing retainer. Assemble the new bearing bracket to match the old one. Apply a liberal amount of supplied lubricant to the pivot ball and plastic retainer. At this point it was helpful to have someone at the rear of the dryer hold the new retainer bracket against the back of the dryer while I tightened the new bearing assembly in. Assemble dryer in reverse.

I read the others repair story and it was a easy repair, my wife had a repairman come out and check it already, he stated to her that it was a major repair and that he needed to take it to the shop for repair, well he was full of sh##!!! The unit is a stackable washer dryer,if the screws inside the drum backout, the belt comes off and caused mine to brake the belt,my wife found the 2 small screws in the bottom of the tub,theres a small cover on the back that you remove and you can see belt drive pully! Follow the directions that have been explained on others listed it"s easy!!! Mike

I've always been a "do it yourselfer". If I can fix it, I save money. I took the dryer apart by lifting the top up like car hood. Then I removed the front panel. The front drum glide snapped into place easily where the other one had broken off. The felt strip that you sent was much shorter than the one on the dryer, so once I used the wire wheel to remove the old glue, I cut off the section of the felt that was bad and replaced it with the new felt. The turns much quieter and clothing doesnt get caught behind the drum anymore.

This unit is a stackable washer&dryer,so first pull unit away from wall atleast 4 foot. Unplug power cord,then take10 dagree front panel off then the control panel off and unplug the 5 connetors if your unit has that many,then lay panel asside. Take dryer door off,makes it easier when putting it all back together. Now take front panel off and the dryer lent tube,now just take the 3 center phillips head screws out and slide drum out. Pull upward on what they call the shaft which held drum on. Now these are the parts you should order. Belt,grounding ball clip,grounding ball,drum support bearing,bearing bracket,and most important part is the shaft. The shaft is ur insurance for the whole job. Use a good grease like white lithium grease and coat the shaft end and the drum support bearing. The grease will cut down on friction for a while,and re assemble the way you took apart. Reminder grounding ball goes behind drum support bearing not in front. Good luck and please vaccum.

This is a stacker washer/dryer combination. Took off the back panel of the dryer, but found out the front needed to come off instead,to replace the blower wheel. This took more time than replacing the wheel. Was pretty easy to get to the wheel and replace. The center part had broken so replaced wheel and clamp. The push in fastner was broke, which held in the lint screen part. Was easy to install this. Dryer sounds as good as it did when it was new. It was very easy to find the correct part and shipping was overnight! Great service.

Make sure you order a new belt and a new drum glide with the rear drum bearing assembly. If your bearing is worn out, so are the belt and drum glide!

1) Use a flat screw driver or putty knife to release the blind clips that hold the front side of the top of the dryer cabinet down
2) Swing dryer top up and remove two screws that hold the face of the cabinet.
3) Unplug the wiring harness and remove the cabinet face.
4) Remove the 3 screws that hold the drum to the bearing assembly (accessed from inside the drum. This makes it easier to remove the drum as the bearing assembly can be difficult to remove before you see how it snaps together
5) Reach under the drum and take the belt off the motor pulley, then remove the drum
6) Remove the old bearing assembly from the socket (slide up then out)
7) Remove the two screws that hold the bearing socket to the dryer
8) Fasten the new socket to the dryer (you'll need help doing this unless you have REALLY long arms because you have to reach inside the driver and the back of the dryer at the same time)
9) Grease the socket with the supplied high temp grease
10) Bolt the new bearing assembly to the drum and put the new belt around the drum
11) Put the drum back in and snap the bearing socket in and down
12) Guide the new belt around the motor pulley & tensioner
13) Glue the new drum glide / felt piece to the front cabinet
14) Put the cabinet back together

1. Removed face of dryer (drum 'holder')
2. Disconnected door switch wires
3. Tore off existing felt

NOTE: The length of the felt that I recieved from PartSelect was incorrect (too short). Since the existing felt was worn and torn at the top, I replaced only a length that matched the length of the new felt.

4. Used a razor blade-type gasket remover/scraper to remove the exisitng glue
5. Applied new glue (which comes with the felt) onto the felt and let it set up

NOTE: In hindsite, I would apply the glue to the drum holder instead, as the glue otherwise soaks into the felt. If applied to the drum holder instead, the glue will spread out and provide more surface area for adherence.

6. Installed the new felt, starting at one end and working my way around to the other end, being careful not to stretch it
7. Trimmed the remainder of the existing felt (see first NOTE)
8. Scraped the drum holder below the pulled away ends of the exisitng felt
9. Applied glue to the existing felt, including the trrimmed ends so that the ends do not pull away from the ends of the new felt
10. Re-attached the existing felt
11. Let the glue set-up overnight
12. Reinstalled the face of the dryer, turning the drum so that the felt will not get pushed away
13. Reconnected the door switch wires
14. Turned dryer on, with lid still raised, to check for any drifting of the felt
15. Once assured that the felt would stay in place, put the dryer in service

NOTE: I replaced the felt becasue of the gap that opened due to compression of the felt. The gap, as well as a torn piece of the felt that entered the interior of the drum, was catching clothes and tearing them as they were rotated between the drum and the drum holder. The new felt eliminated this problem.

had to remove cover plate from under dryer and remove the top of washer to access the fill tube. horn part of fill tube is held in with one screw and plastic pin, the end with clamp that fits on the fill valve is very difficult to reach. could only get a grip on the clamp with 90 degree needle nose pliers. NOTE: washer cabinet has very sharp edges and cut my arm in several places trying to reach clamp. suggest wear long sleeve shirt.

First I read the manual on how to replaced the dryer drum belt. Second I took off the front panel. This would involving taken all screws from the top of the dryer face and the front panel. Thirdly I removed the exhaust attachment. Then I saw that the belt broke. Really it looked torned apart. I believe too heavy of a load in dryer. I then installed the new belt and reversed everyhing I did to start. The dryer runs great. This is not that bad of a job. If you can do it yourself, why pay hunreds on a service man to do the job.