4GMEDX500YW0 Maytag Dryer - Instructions
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dryer wouldnt heat
First i tested each part for continuity and found out that the thermal fuse was bad. So ordered the part and went ahead and got thermostat and element to ensure no problems in the future since I already was in there.
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JEFF from LEBANON, TN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Socket set
24 of 35 people
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Idler Pulley broke
I disconnect the power, then the vent pipe. I removed the back panel of the dryer to access the pulley and removed the belt. Replaced the back and put everything back together.
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Keith from Richmond, VA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Socket set
21 of 26 people
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The sensor would not slide into grill
Initially, i watched the how to do it instruction in the fix website to determine the complexity of repairs. The instruction built up my confidence. I ordered and recieved the grill amd the two new sensors. I placed the two new sensors into the new grill sensor slots. Then removed the old grill by unscrewing three screws. Connected the two sensors positioned the grill and screwed in the three screws put the lent stray in the grill and closed the dyer door. I have been a happy camper ever since. I saved the $75 home insurance fee plus maintenence installment. Thanks
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sandra*broadnax from BRISTOW, VA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
18 of 18 people
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Moisture sensors need replacement
Inside the dryer tub, remove the filter housing by removing two phillips head screws. Unplug the sensor wires, note when replacing wires, black wire goes on upper sensor.
Separate filter grill from housing. Using the pliers, compress the tabs on the sensor plugs and push it thru the grill. The small blade screwdriver may come in handy here to pry up on sensor to assist in pulling the plug end through the grill. Replace the sensors by hooking short end into grill and pushing the long end through the grill. When replacing the housing to the dryer, the most difficult thing is getting the screwdriver onto the recessed screws. Be sure to put the tab on top of the housing under the dryer frame when rotating the assembly into place.
Separate filter grill from housing. Using the pliers, compress the tabs on the sensor plugs and push it thru the grill. The small blade screwdriver may come in handy here to pry up on sensor to assist in pulling the plug end through the grill. Replace the sensors by hooking short end into grill and pushing the long end through the grill. When replacing the housing to the dryer, the most difficult thing is getting the screwdriver onto the recessed screws. Be sure to put the tab on top of the housing under the dryer frame when rotating the assembly into place.
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Jack from JONESBORO, AR
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
20 of 24 people
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idler pully sqwieling
once the back is off remove belt from tentioner and remove v clip. smooth shaft with wd-40 and scotch brite , then install new idler replace v clip
and your done !!!
and your done !!!
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Jerry Duty from Fort Walton Beach, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
19 of 24 people
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The felt strip on the filter had come undone.
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Rebecca from Laredo, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
21 of 31 people
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Door Catch was broken
I just inserted the door catch, which by the way fit in perfectly. Thanks. Took 5 seconds to repair.
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Inocencio from Edinburg, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
16 of 17 people
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Dryer continued to run with door open
The video provided by this site on YouTube on this topic was perfect. Saved us a couple of hundred dollars DIY rather than repair man.
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Colleen from CAPE CORAL, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
18 of 23 people
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Dryer starts with loud squeak initially. Eventually there was a loud clank and dryer stopped.
Rather than remove the front panels, door, control panel and drum, I noticed 1/4" metal screws on the back panel. There were approximately 6 holding the back panel in place. I did have to remove the top panel as well before removing the back. Once removed I had complete access to the broken idler pulley assembly. I immediately saw the broken pulley. I installed the new one with very little effort. Reset the belt according to instructions from the video. Reassembled, plugged in, hit start and enjoyed the sweet sounds of success. All told it took me about 20 minutes from start to finish.
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Victor from HOUSTON, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
16 of 17 people
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Flashing E1 code for a bad thermistor
I replaced the thermistor earlier, but the code was still flashing. I noticed the heater terminals were charred and pretty well covered in carbon. So, I replaced the heater, the thermostat and thermal fuse and replaced the 3/8" spade terminals on the heater wires. (These are hard to find - most electrical spades terminals are .250. Also, I crimped and soldered these for a connection with the lowest resistance possible). After all that, the code still flashed! I let the explatives fly, calmed down, and ran the control board test. (This is done by pressing "more time" "less time" "more time" "less time" in succession.) The control board was passing all the tests, but the thermistor test, and the only thing is in this circuit is the thermistor, the wires, the connector to the control board, and some circuit on the control board that involves a few resistors and the "brain" chip. So, I checked the terminals at the thermistor, the wires up to the control board and the connector at the board. The control board connector was fairly dust encrusted, so I unplugged it, cleaned the control board terminals and sucked away all the lint and dust. Finally, I carefully removed earch crimp terminal from the Molex connector (the white female connector) and cleaned and bent them to yield a better connection to the terminals on the control board. I put it all back together, and thus far it is working fine.
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John from Cedar Rapids, IA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
19 of 27 people
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Dryer tumbled but would not heat
Used socket set to remove the two hex-head screws from the bottom flange of the toe panel. Manually pulled the panel out at the bottom, pulled down, and removed the panel. Looked to right and found heater shield. Removed heather shield using socket set. Removed the two wires from the terminal block (had to use a little WD40 to loosen connection and wiped up afterwards). Removed the holding screw holding the heating element using the socket set. Pulled HARD on old heating element using pliers and a rag (protection from accidental cut-sharp edges). Once out, the new element slid in relatively easy. Screwed the new element back into place and re-connected the element wires, then put the heater shield back into place. Put the toe panel back into place. Tested and worked great! The only thing that made this "easy" but not "really easy" is that I had to really pull HARD on the old element to get it out...with the sharp edges and tight fit in play, you'll need to pay attention to safety when removing the old element.
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LARRY from NEWNAN, GA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Socket set
14 of 14 people
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seal for lint filter came off
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John from Midland, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
17 of 23 people
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Dryer would not turn
My dryer starter squeaking in December 09 and the repairman told me that it would cost between $200-$500. I did not let him fix it as this machine is only 3 years old. When the part finally broke in April 10, I was ready to junk this and just buy a used dryer. My husband went on line and quickly figured out the part he would need to do the repairs. It cost under $20.00. Now my dryer is fixed and running and there are no squeaks. Thank you
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Kim K from Hurst, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
15 of 18 people
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parts took more than two months to get here.
I'm still waiting on my idler pulley. It arrived at Fed EX depot in Tracy CA on December 14th and has still not been shipped. So it is pretty fucking hard for me to install it! Maybe if you had customer service that would answer their phones or reply to my Emails would be helpful
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rodney from Mad River, CA
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Difficulty Level:Very Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
14 of 16 people
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Dryer made a terrible screeching noise when tumbling.
I followed the repair Vedic and took the drum out and replaced the pulls and bracket. Very straightforward job. Dryer is now as quite as the first day we bought it.
Parts Used:
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Richard from SAUGERTIES, NY
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
13 of 14 people
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