59661103100 Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

I have replaced the circuit board, the condenser fan motor but the unit still will not feeze correctly. The bottom of the unit freezes but just barely cools the rest of the freezer and ice box. Have you got any other advice that might help. This is a side by side unit. What else could be the problem. It seems that the fan is not working correctly or it is stuck in defrost mode. The coils where the fan is seem to be icing up but it will not let the fan work. THanks for your help, David Wilson

1. Turn your water OFF and pull the refrigerator out from the wall so you can access the back.
2. Use pliers to remove tubing clamp.
3. Remove old water fill tube.
4. I used a putty knife to gently pry out the old fill tube from the back of the refrigerator. Once the fill tube pulls out about 1/4 to 1/2", then you can gently pull the remainder of the tube out by hand. Once I removed my "old" fill tube, that is when I saw the "ice plug" that was causing pressure in the water supply line and caused my water line to pop off.
5. Install new fill tube. The end that goes in first needs to go through a small "ring" inside the freezer (this "ring" is not encountered until the fill tube only has about one more inch to be inserted into the back of the refigerator. I could barely see this "ring" if I opened the freezer drawer and stuck my head in as far as I could. I had to gently rotate the new fill tube until it cleared the "ring". You will feel some resistance until it lines up properly.
6. Snugly push in the part that stays on the outside of the refrigerator until it looks like it is sealed.
7. Gently push up the water fill tube where it belongs in the new part and replace the tubing clamp.
8. Turn your water on and make sure there are no leaks (I left my refrigerator out for about an hour).
9. Push your refrigerator back in place.

Followed the video on parts page. I was worried I would brake the cover but learned from the video the right way to remove the front plate. I found the video very informing. Thank you for saving me a service call and the part cost was minimal compared to a new refrigerator .

Remover rear cover at bottom of refrigerator. The replacement run capacitor was the same as the original one. The replacement Overload Relay Combination was slightly different. It plugged onto the compressor the same, but the connector where the power came in from the wiring harness was different. I had to cut off the original connector from the wiring harness, and then splice in new connectors onto those two wires which I could then attach to the replacement Overload Relay Combination. Fortunately the connectors I needed were fairly common and I had those available. After that it worked. My suspicion is that the Run Capacitor was fine, and it was just the Overload Relay Combination that failed. Replacing the capacitor without replacing the Overload Relay Combination did not fix the problem.

disconnected wire connections, pulled old overload relay and running capacitor out like a plug and plug in the new one then reconnected the wires.

I did a few tests with the old ice maker and determined that it was the ice maker itself that was faulty. The replacement part I ordered exceeded my expectations in the time it took to get the part. I reused the arm, wire harness and clamps from the old icemaker. Then it was a simple install into the bottom freezer compartment, turning on the water supply and bingo...lots of ice cubes.

Disconnected power cord, Removed lower front face plate, removed one screw that helt cover over defrost timer, removed two screws that held timer, unpluged timer and removed it. Replaced old timer with new timer. Replaced timer installed two screws and replaced cover.

I unhooked the wire harness from the ref. and took out three screws and pulled the old unit out. I than changed a few parts from the old icemaker to the new and reattached the new ice maker to the ref. and plugged the wire back in. everything is working fine. No problems. Also I was very happy with the ordering process. Thank you!!

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

Removed screw under ice maker. Tilted ice maker up to remove unit from upper two screws. Disconnected plug at rear of freezer. Attached wiring harness, baler arm and cover from old to new ice maker. Reinstalled in reverse order. Had ice within one hour. Very easy fix.

I didn't know what the problem was so replaced all 3 parts.
What I think actually fixed the problem is the Cold Control Thermostat that is not listed here. This part accessed by removing the dial control in the front of the Freezer. Part wasn't exactly the same but worked. I looped the sensor toward the front of the dial. Also replaced the Run Capacitor from the the back of the unit (Very Easy). Replaced the Defrost Timer from the Front of the unit (Easy). Now keeping 35-40 degrees in the Fridge and -15-0 in the Freezer. Nice. I plan to replace the Condenser Fan Motor also as it is a bit noisy.

Pulled off old ones and warmed new seals in warm water first to make it easier to slip on. Then I just pressed them on.

Replaced refrigerator cooling control. No luck. Replaced freezer cooling control. No luck. Coils were icing up. Unplugged frig and allowed coils to defrost. After more poking around, found that condenser fan was not spinning. Touch it and it'd start. That was definitely in need of replacement. Replacement was easy. Refrigerator is now running as it should.

In Freezer, removed the 3 screws hold up the dial to select the temperature. Once this is lowered you see the Cold Control Thermostat. New one was a bit different, but still fit. I carefully bent the sensor wire to come around to the front of the so it would fit. Slide the plastic tube over the sensor wire. I guessed on the Red and Yellow wires. I don't know if it matters if this is AC. I think I had the Red closest to the front. 2 prongs for the ground, but just need the small one. Put is all back together and it is working great.

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.