61-1072-10 Dishwasher - Instructions

First I removed the two screws that hold the dishwasher in place, I pulled out the dishwasher and on the bottom right located the leak. The two brass nuts that hold the heating element in place. The wires had been rusted to the element so I cut the wires (and later spliced them back together) and unscrewed the brass nuts. I ordered the part after finding them very easily on partselect.com and 2 days later screwed them back on to the dishwasher. Spliced the wires back together and put the dishwasher back in place.

Easy Fix.

I used the scissors to open the bag the gasket came in. From there it was just seeing how the old, worn gasket was seated in the track around the inside of the dishwasher. Pulling the old one out and snapping the new one in the same way. When I was finished, there was about an inch between the two ends at the bottom where the gasket wasn't quite long enough for them to meet. I was a bit concerned seeing the basin fills with water. So I cut an inch off the best part of the old gasket to fill the space. No leaks! It works great and was so easy to do.

Remove the old gasket simply by pulling it off. I installed the new gasket by starting in one corner and simply pushing the gasket firmly into the groove and working my way around. No tools required. My child could have done it. Problem solved. It takes two or three cycles for the gasket to "break in" and form precisely to the door. Leave the door locked a couple of days to hasten the "break in".

I read the instructions that others had posted and completed the repair in less than 5 minutes!

Removed the lower panel (two screws near the floor, two screws with the door open).

Remove screws holding the top of the dishwasher in place.

Remove two screws holding the incoming water switch.

Pull the dishwasher out to access the left side of the dishwasher.

With the door closed remove the spring (replaced both left and right).

Test the motion of the door.

Reverse the process
1. push dishwasher back in
2. Attach water switch bracket
3. Attach top screws that hold the dishwasher in place
4. Replace lower panel
5. Attach screws for lower panel

Test the door motion,

I replaced the gasket a couple of years ago for less than $50. The springs with shipping for less than $25. I wonder how much longer the dishwasher will last. The repairs are easier than putting in a new dishwasher and a whole lot cheaper.

if the wire they snap on was bent it needs to be straightend.......they just snap on. easy to install but wish they had better wheels so this problem would be solved. My 2 sons have same brand dishwashers and have same problem.

Replacement was simple.

My dishwasher started leaking at the beginning of the summer. We didn't know what to do, but didn't want to call an appliance repairman. Towards fall, a friend came over and pulled it out and found the heating element brass nut which was broken. We put it back in and washed dishes the old-fashioned way for another 3 months after that. I asked at my local hardware store for the part, and thought about trying one of those big-box do-it-yourself stores but never got around to it. Finally after getting sick and tired of doing all the dishes in the house by hand, I found your site, and the part I needed and ordered two (just-in-case). A few days later, we got the part, I pulled the dishwasher out again, screwed on the new nut by hand and put it back into place. We're in business!

1) Soaked new gasket in hot water for about 15 minutes to make it more pliable. 2) Cleaned accumulated soap residue from gasket area. 3) Removed old gasket by pulling it from machine. 4) Installed new gasket starting at the top and aligning notch on gasket with center of top door latch. 5) Pressed gasket into place working from the top to the bottom. 6) Inspected and found about a half inch gap remained at bottom. 7) Cut a piece of the same size from the old gasket and pressed it in place to close the gap.

There were 4 zip ties holding old silverware basket on to bottom rack snip them, remove basket install new basket with zip ties both ends 2 more in middle about 1-2” apart. Try to install ties about 1/2 way up on basket so it doesn’t get top heavy.

I watched the video on the website on how to remove the top rack, and installed the new wheel and bushing. Simplest fix I ever did.

Isolated the leak and found the nut had split thereby allowing a loose seal and water penetration. Ordered 2 nuts just in case the other goes and the installation was easy. Unplug the unit, remove baseplate, remove screws under the countertop, and slide the unit out a bit. Use needlenode pliers to remove terminal connection and replaced nut. Reverse it for assembly. 3 minutes tops $6 later it is done. Easy money saved by a DIY.

This site had good pics and descriptions of the gasket I needed, as well as a LOT of users instructions concerning installation. Ordered, came quickly. It was a little hard to push in the groove. (Maybe a little silicone lube on the gasket would help??) I also filled in the gap at the bottom with a small section of the old gasket, as suggested by (other) installers. Why not? Anyways, it took both hands to close the door the first 3-4 washes. Easy to open/close now. AND... no more leaks! Great price, too!

I recently bought a vacation home in New Hampshire, and had a very detailed home inspection performed. The dishwasher unit was checked out to be in fine shape. Before moving in, I had all the hardwood floors refinished, including the kitchen, and everything looked great. After moving in and using the dishwasher twice, it developed a major leak coming from the bottom of the unit. "Here goes more money that I don't have, to hire an appliance repairman to fix this leak!" I decided to take the bottom kick panel off the dishwasher to see where the leak was coming from. It was coming from the the connection of the heater element at the bottom of the dishwasher. I found a brass nut had been cracked and wouldn't stay tight any more. I ordered the replacement nut from Partselect, RECEIVED IT THE NEXT DAY!!!!! using regular ground shipping, and installed the new nut using a socket set, and tested the unit. No more leaks!! Partselect saved me at least $150.00 on a service call for a $3.50 part. I'm not the handiest guy around, but even this was easy!
I also scored big points with the wife on my handyman repair! Thanks Partselect!

Greg

I removed some philips screws from the kick plate along the bottom of the dishwasher. I then removed some trim screws on the sides of the bottom door panel (the smaller panel below the door on the front of the dishwasher). There were also two screws into the top of the lower panel that you can only see when the door is open. This let me remove the whole lower door panel and kick plate. It was now possible to see the springs on the left and right, and it is actually possible to change them at this point, just with access through the front. However, it is very awkward. Contrary to what some repairs have said, it really is much easier if you can pull the dishwasher out from under the counter about 6 inches. To do that, you'll have to unbolt it, and that will vary depending on how yours was mounted. You may find brackets along the front, screws or bolts through the frame into the floor, and/or retaining straps from the top up to the counter.

Beyond that, it's simple. You'll see that the spring hooks into a slot or hole on a large L-shaped bracket that moves with the door. There is one on each side at the bottom of the door. The other end of each spring hooks through a hole in the frame rail on the bottom. There will likely be several holes, letting you choose how tight you want the spring (this controls how easily the door will drop).
A pair of needlenose pliers is handy for getting the spring end into the holes.

Again, it was a lot easier doing this from the outside of the dishwasher after pulling it out a few inches.