66513206K901 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

12 screws remove door outside panel unplug wire remove 6 mounting screw remove old unit put new unit in place put 6 small mounting screws back plug wire in put front door panel in place put 12 door screws in your done now you can start and test run

Removed front instrument cover. Removed latch assembly. Tried to fix it . No luck. Ordered new latch assembly. Came in from partsselect in 3 days. Installed new latch. Replaced cover.

Disconnected the damaged hose extension from the dishwasher outlet drain hose and the connection to the sink drain. Removed two clamps. One a spring clamp and the other a screw clamps. Connected the new extension hose with a spring clamp to the dishwasher outlet drain hose. Connected the other end to the sink drain with a screw clamp. Checked for leaks. Good to go!

I Removed the upper wash rack by removing locks on each front slide of rack. I laid a towel in the bottom of the washer to keep anything dropped, retrievable. I then removed the top screw closest to the spinner location. I then carefully pulled down on the mounting, which exposed the bad bushing lock. I removed the old bushing lock and replaced with new one. I then replaced the spinner with a push with one hand while holding the bushing in place with the other hand. You will feel a snap as all goes into place. Make sure new spinner spins freely. Now reinstall removed screw. Do not over tighten. Now reinstall lower rack, carefully aligning water feed in rear of washer, and making sure all rollers are back in sliding rack. Reinstall locking tabs onto sliding rack. Now slide out rack, it should not come off slider. Important: now remove the towel in the bottom of the washer. If left in place, you will have a fire during the drying cycle. Close the door and test your washer through a cycle. I felt confident and did a load of dishes. If all went well, spinner should be in place, not in the bottom of the washer.

First, I bought the door balance link to replace the broken links that connect to the springs.

Because I didn't have enough slack to simply pull out the dishwasher far enough to reach the springs, I had to disconnect the water line and electrical wiring.
The only reason my repair took as long as it did was because there was so little room underneath the dishwasher for disconnecting the water line. I had to buy a shorter adjustable wrench. Also, I had leaks after reconnecting the water line. I had to tighten the compression nut as far as it would go. The nut wrapped around a white substance that had been applied to the threads (I believe this is called pipe tape), which did the trick for sealing the leak.

The repair was a complete success! The parts arrived fast and the information from other customers on the the PartsSelect website was invaluable.

Removed the old one, cleaned out the groove, dry fit the gasket, made a small cut to fit length, removed, squeezed the glue into the track and then put gasket in. Had to wait 24 hours for glue to cure.
No leaks.

Watch your video about my dishwasher symptoms. Move water tube for upper rack to the right and release lower spray arm. Remove 4 clutch head screws from filter cover and remove. Dig out 10 years of undisolved soap and reassemble.

like the instructions showed

Took off the old wheels and placed them on the new rack - fast and easy if you watch the video.

The first try didn't go well. The door didn't stay locked because the new seal was preventing it.
I pulled it back off for the second try and first I let it soak in the hot water for a few minutes to soften the rubber. Then I lubricated it with Vaseline and now the seal got in the grove easily and completely. I believe that that step was critical to ensure 100% success rate. After that everything was fine, the door locked properly, and, of course, there was no more leaking.

Note orientation of the old gasket before removing it, so you can put the new one in right. Pull the old one out, which is a snap. Mark the center of the new one and push the center into the channel with your thumb nail at the top middle of the machine. Continue pushing it in on both sides, from top to bottom, in a steady, fluid motion; don't stretch it. If there is a bit extra at the ends, cut it off with a scissors, being conservative so you don't cut it too short. The new gasket will make the door a bit harder to close, but that's what you want.

Removed broken tin row. Replaced with new tine row. Tokk less than 1 minute.

removed kick panel with screwdriver, 90 degree turn of screw. Put towel under drain pump. Disconnect drain hose by loosening spring clip with pliers to provide access to pump. released spring clip on old motor while turning counterclockwise to separate pump from drain reservoir. inspect drain reservoir from inside machine to remove any foreign objects. Installed new pump by indexing attachment flanges to notches in reservoir and turning pump clockwise until locking tab makes audible click. reattach drain hose insuring hose is contacting "stop" ribs on drain hose pipe. Run wash cycle on machine to insure there are no leaks. Re-attached kick panel.

Popping out the old tine rows was very simple and required no tools. The only issue was that the spacing of the replacement tines was different from the original parts and there was not enough space between the tines and the basket to snap the clips back on to hold the tine row. I went to my band saw and cut the extended ends off of the clips and then they snapped into place perfectly. This would have been a 20 minute, no tool job if I didn't have to run to the band saw.

Ordering the part was very easy. It shipped fast and delivered over 3 days. It fit perfectly