66515777992 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

We unscrewed the old mount, and installed new mount, inserted screw and tightened. Waa-lah, that was all that needed to be done.

Removed the screw that held the mount in place. Snapped the new mount place (no screws required).

Fast & easy.

First I removed the plastic bolt that holds the wash arm in place This exposed the upper ring that was worn out . I then lifted the arm off which exposed the larger ring. I replaced that ring, and then I put the arm back on and replaced the upper ring. I put the plastic bolt back in place and the repair was complete.-- Really Easy plus the dishwasher gets the dishes clean now

I read a couple of stories about how easy these are to break when installing. So I used extra care, and made sure to push carefully in just the right places.

What worked for me was raising the tines of the cup rack to apply some leverage as I squeezed the clips into place with my fingers. No tools. No broken clips. No injuries. No cursing.

No Water supply to Dishwasher. Turned off main Supply valve under sink.First took off old Diswasher supply valve and repaired it by cleaning it and it worked for two weeks. I ordered the part, but then cancelled it and Partselect service was great and cancelled it immediately. After it went down after 2 weeks I re-ordered it and it came in 4 days.
To Take this part off I removed mounting scews with nut driver, disconeected electronic plug connector, removed the compression fitting from the water supply and removed the outlet hose..reversed all of the above to install.

I removed the bottom spray arm and replaced the worn part. Now the arm turned freely and was performing as it was designed to do. I appreciate parts select for having the part available since the manufacturer no longer supported the model.

My dishwasher started leaking at the door. I checked the level, door seal, fill float, etc. Nothing worked. Another reviewer of these parts said to replace the Seal, Lower Sprayarm, the Wash Arm Bearing Ring, and the wash arm. I replaced the seal and the bearing, not the washer arm, as my spray had little to no wear. This fixed the problem! If you dishwasher leaks at the door, it is possible these parts are worn and replacing them wil fix the leak. Thanks to the other reviewer I now have no leaks! Buy a spare nut because they break very easy if overtorqued!

Removed the washer from the cabinet, although the repair kit could have been replaced without this step. However, it still made it easier. Removed the spray arm assembly and the top cover to the motor. I had to block the motor to keep it from turning while I unscrewed part number 11. The rest was very self explanatory. The "impeller" was seized onto the motor shaft (20 years old) so I had to use a chisel to break what remained off, then clean some corrosion from the shaft. The repair kit worked and the pictorial parts diagram that came with the kit was very clear. Bottom line: "Easy peasy, lemon squeezy!" Great web site for diagnosis and parts diagrams!

No problem. Just snapped new parts in place. My wife has been after me for 2 years to fix this. I had it looked up on the internet an ordered and paid for in 10 minutes 3 days later the parts arrived and in 10 minutes job was done.

The repair went well with the major problem being I replaced the drain hose without removing the dishwasher from it's position. Due to this I removed the drain end with out being able to see the hose and put it back on by feel. Over all I was back up and running with in 30 minutes and everything has worked very well so far.

repair was simple and easy; just make sure you install the holder in the same direction and on same upper-tray prongs to prevent having to remove them to switch around (ensures spinner works properly).

Removed the lower spray arm assembly thumb screw and lifted off the spray arm assembly. The lower seal had disintigrated - couldn't even find any pieces in the filter. After reassembly with the new seal and bearing I turned the spray arm by hand to ensure it was not binding. There was still was, what I would consider, some excessive wobble. I fashioned a shim washer out of some plastic from a Folgers coffee can lid and installed it on the thumbscrew threaded shaft and tightened it all down finger tight - it works very well and now, and no wobble.
I relaced the upper spray arm seal while I was doing the job (both the upper and lower seals are the same part #). I figured it would go out on me eventually, so I might as well replace it while I was doing the lower arm work. Kept the old upper arm seal as an emergency replacement.

Cleaned the filter screen of all debris (it is amazing what collects there over time). Cleaned the stainless tub with some spray Greased Lightning, ran the rinse cycle, and then put a few tablespoons of citric acid crystals in the soap dispenser and ran the dishwasher on NORMAL WASH with temperature boost.
Looks new inside; cleans the dishes, glasses and utensils well (no water spotting); and is nice and quite (like when it was new).

Once the covers under the door are removed, the check valve is visible (unless its too dark, hence the headlight), and pointing right at you. Since I was working under the dishwasher, I gathered all the tools I thought I might need and laid them on the floor next to. Removed 2 covers, placed pan under check valve and hose to catch any water, squeezed clamp with (wrong) pliers, it eventually came loose. Carefully twisted hose off check valve. Water came out, some of it got into the pan, most of it on the floor. I guess I should have pumped it out before I started this. Plastic check valve is screwed into the big piece of whatever, carefully grabbed it with (wrong again) pliers and turned it out. Installation is reverse of removal - but use a large pliers with a ROUNDED jaw to grab the round check valve body. Don't squeeze too hard or overtighten it. Put the clamp on the valve before pushing the hose on. Be sure the hose seats all the way onto the little lugs. Compress the clamp, slide it over the end of the hose and release. That's all folks, works good now.

I used the screwdriver to pry the old lid off of the horizontal pin upon which it rotates. One must be careful before removing the old lid to note how the return spring is deployed. The short legs on the spring must be in the lip of the lid before you snap the new lid onto the horizontal pin. It was helpful to lubricate the two catches on the lid that snap on the pin with some liquid soap before attempting to snap them on the pin. After the lid is snapped into place and the short legs of the coil spring are in the lip of the lid, use needle nose pliers to attach the other end of the coil spring to the pillar where it was before you removed the old lid. There are videos showing how to do this on Youtube. The spring part is a little tricky. The video makes it look a bit easier than it is..

Mine is a Ultra Wash 111
I followed the repair video on your site but my dishwasher was a little different. Not enough that anyone could still understand the video and not get it disassembled. The video shows two ball checks but mine doesn't use them where the videos shows. I put them in anyway because I called Whirlpool, who made my washer, and they assured me that they should be in there. They got sucked through the dump impeller and plugged the discharge tube so I had to disassemble it again and take the ball checks out. Lucky for me nothing got damaged. I then got a hold of someone on your chat line that got me to the correct parts view that shows where the ball check is suppose to go on my washer. During working on my washer I realized the squealing was because the bottom bearing on the motor needed oil. So all and all I'm happy because it runs quiet and it works fine. Thanks Greg