79045264500 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Simply took oven out of wall, removed back plate, unplugged old sensor, went in the front and unscrewed old sensor, put in new sensor, went in back and plugged in new sensor, put on back plate, push oven in wall. Turn on power

1. Remove all four control knobs.
2. Unscrew all four plastic "nuts" found under each knob holding front
panel to stove.
3. Lift front panel off.
4. Removed all Phillips screws holding metal shield to which control
switches are fastened.
5. Lift entire assembly up.
6. Remove two screws holding bad switch to metal shield.
7. BEFORE REMOVING ANY WIRES LABEL EACH WIRE
ACCORDING TO CODE EMBOSSED ON BACK OF BAD
SWITCH. These will be H1, H2, L1, L2 and P. They are not in
the same place on the new switch as they are on the old one.
The reason for labeling is that in case you make a mistake you
have this back-up to go by. Also to double check your finished
job.If just one wire is connected to the
wrong terminal a disaster will happen.
8. Remove each wire, one at a time from the old switch and connect
it to the correct terminal on the new switch as indicated by the
codes on the back of the new switch. When done double check
to be certain the labels on each wire match the code for the
connected terminal.
9. Slide furnished bushing onto the new switch.
10. Insert new switch through the back of the metal shield and attach
with the supplied screws. The old screws were too short in my
case so be certain to use the ones supplied with the new switch.
11. Re-attach the shield assembly to the stove.
12. Install the front panel back over the switch stems.
13. Secure the front panel with the four plastic nuts.
14. Install the control knobs.
15. Test the new switch.

Turn off breaker to the oven. Removed four knows by pulling them up and out. Using either a large flat blade screwdriver or adjustable wrench (depending upon stove top model) remove threaded style holders at each burner switch control to remove the glass clock control top panel. Remove glass panel and note ldgasket position. Place glass panel on top of stove top on a cloth towel to prevent scratches. Remove 8 screws and remove/lift up burner control assembly. Invert and place on its side to gain access to broken contol switch. Took a picture of wiring and close up off switch to help remember where each wire plugs into switch. Remove 2 Phillips screws from the old switch and remove from panel. Using a flat blade screwdriver gently remove one wire at a time and using knob to orientate the off position of the new switch. Remove each wire one at a time and install on the new switch. Compare numbers on both the old and new switch to assist where each wire goes. The numbers are beside each terminal and using a flashlight and magnifying glass will help making the job easier. DO NOT mix the wires up. Use the 2 longer screws and threaded bracket supplied fasten the new switch to the glass panel. Reinstall the glass panel using the screws removed and thread on clips at each switch and tighten using a large flat blade screwdriver. Be sure to route the wiring to not pinch the wires and install the gasket along the front edge which fills the gap along the burner top and side for a tight seal keeping water and food particles out. The infinite control switch has letters such as H1, H2 etc as the switch fits several models with different wiring diagrams and colours so it's impt to note this when transferring the old wires to the new switch. Also the gasket along the top glass edge ensure to note exactly how it is placed to reinstall to be exact when you reassemble. Replace the 4 control knobs by pushing them on after aligning to fit as they were removed. New switch should be positioned the same as the others with off at the top and a notable click. Be sure to note this when transferring wires from the old to new switch. Turn breaker on. Note: If you have minimal skills this should be left to someone who is an electrician or has repair experience in this field.

Husband very ill in bed. It's up to me!! Got a new bulb at HomeDepot and figured out how to get that wire 'thing' back in and the new glass cover installed. I DID IT!! WOW! My husband has always done these jobs around the house.......but now it's up to me.......and I'm not so dumb after all! I DID IT!! Now everyone who comes in the house.....I show them what I DID!! :-)

1 Turned off the oven breaker.

2. Removed the oven racks.

3. With a Phillips screwdriver, removed the mounting screws holding the temperature sensor and unplugged it.

4. New sensor plug did not match 20 year old connector. Had to cut and solder splice the connectors.

5. Installed the new sensor and now oven holds temperature steady.

Easy order, quick delivery and easy installation, happy wife.

I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.

Pulled range out from cabinet, removed back plate, two screws inside oven attaching the temp sensor. Then pulled the sensor and wire through from back. Reverse to replace about Ten minutes
OEM parts plug in same, works great

Drawings on web site somewhat hard to read, resulting in more
disassembly than actually necessary. Turns out, simply removing the
threaded plastic securing rings around the bases of the controls frees
up the faceplate, and allows access to the phillips screws that hold down
the bracket. Then it's a simple matter to replace the control unit by
swapping out the leads one at a time from old to new. Be careful when
re-attaching those plastic securing rings, they can cross-thread pretty
easily.

2 screws disconnected old one and pulled out the new one in put in opposite way. The representative was so helpful, part came fast. thank you

Phillips screwdriver used to remove 2 screws at top left in oven. Pulled thermostat out until I could get to the connector. Used pliers to hold wire, reconnected new plug , threaded it back into back of oven and reattached the two screws.
Saved $150 on a service repair call.

Turned off breaker to range then removed all element control knobs. Unscrewed retaining collars I suppose is a good word removed panel. Then removed bad switch installed removed one wire at a time and placed on new switch in proper places. Reassembled in reverse order turned breaker back on worked perfect.

Very easy just had to pull the wire up that holds it secure.

unscrew the sensor inside the oven; took off the back of range to access harness of sensor; the replacement part harness did not match up to the original, so we stripped the clip from the end of the part and also the end of the harness in should clip into. after joining the wires together with ceramic wire nuts we tested the oven to make sure all worked AND IT DID!

Pretty easy installation; you lift the top plate up and snip the wires maybe four inches away from the burner. Leave more wire than you think you need; once you get into it you'll realize you need more wire length than you think.

Then strip the remaining ends, twist them together with the provided caps, and use the heat shrink to hold it together. Remove the old terminal, replace it with the new ones, and you're good to go!

Remember to check that the wires are tight in the cap before heat shrinking, though. I had to get more shrink wrap in order to finish.

Just followed the instructions