79071314701 Kenmore Range - Instructions

I took the brads that were left from the old gasket off with needle nose pliers. Then I put the new one on. It was very easy.

The range top had to be taken off along with the front panel to get access to the place the burner pipe connects. It took more time to unassemble and assemble the range than repacing the burner. The only issue was that the burner was sent without the bolts that will hold it in place so I had to go to local hardware store to get appropriate bolts.

ordered a new part,from partselect

Turn off gas,unplug,unbolt the burners(you have to do this to keep from bending and or kinking over the gas lines.Luck kept me from bending the lines out of whack.)All I needed was the electrode but I couldn’t find it available separately.I had to buy the whole front burner.Anyway remove the clip from the new part slide the electrode out.Tilt the top of the range up take the clip off of the old electrode slide it out put the new one in install clip.Plug it in,rebolt all the burners in.Careful not to bend the gas lines.put the top down turn on the gas,plug it in and light.

I couldn't unscrew the leveling foot because it was rusted and corroded. The bracket holding it was easy to remove so I took the bracket with the corroded foot off and replaced it with the new foot and bracket. Very simple. I made sure I oiled it so it wouldn't rust again.

turn the gas off unplugged it form electric removed the line took the flame plate off removed burner tube and the screw out with a nut driver that was all just put it back in reverse

After looking over the installation instructions I was confident that I could perform this on my own, However, changing the burner orifices was a bit tricky. Getting the original ones out worked well, they stayed in the nut driver when it was lifted. One of the new ones fell out when inserting it. Thankfully it fell all the way down and I could retrieve it. A small piece of tape was needed to keep it in the driver. The rest of the install went per instructions.

It went easy, I ordered the part from another vendor, received it in 3 days and it only took about 20 minutes to install.
I do not recommend ordering from PartSelect!

New ones fit perfectly. Take a minute to bend the frame straight. Then and I used oversize screws on the replacement parts as the drop had stripped out the screw holes of the frame.

On the front left burner would not ignite, after the installation of the new one, same problem, new one didn't fix.. I guess it's something with the electric igniter

The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.

First we replaced the wiring harness because a multi-meter said it wasn’t getting power. That was only partially true. The wiring harness was burned looking so we just kept it instead of sending it back. When the spark module got here the burner caps were removed and then the wires were noted where they went on the module and then the power and gas were turned off. The spark module was removed and then the stove was tested and we were back in business.

replaced it

Pull stove out to get behind it,unplug temperature probe plug. Remove temp probe from oven by removing the screw holding it in place on back of oven. Cut plug off temp probe unit leaving as much lead wire as possible on plug end. Strip wires on new probe and end of plug wires(one quarter inch). Then I used two small butt connectors to join the stripped wires,one for each pair of wires. Two small wire 'nuts' may also be used as the connections are outside the oven and not exposed to the heat of the oven while it is in operation. Hope this helps the inexperienced 'do it yourselfers'--:)

Just replaced the broken part with the new part