79072862300 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Remove two screws from bottom of inside oven door slide oven door up of hinges in side of door has 2 more screws when removing hold handle it does come off at very bottom of door remove all screws cover comes off remove new glass from package and place over brackets put oven door cover back on put screws back on slide back on bracket put last screws on

Removed the broiler compartment door by depressing the slide stops inward and pulling the door off. Turned off the breaker to the oven. Used a nut driver to remove the old ignitor ( 2 screws ). Cut the wires off the old ignitor close to the porclin. Measured the new ignitor wires to match up with the old ignitor wires and cut them. Stripped 3/8 " off ends of newely cut wires of the ignitor and used the supplied wire nuts to secure them together. Replaced the new ignitor with the 2 screws. Turned on the oven and a cooking I went.

This was very easy. Just remove the bottom of the oven by removing the two screw in the back. Then remove the baffle from under that and you of will see the ingniter. The one wire will reach the gas valve, just splce the other. 6 screws is all it takes. Turned it on worked perfectly.

On this website, I found an instruction manual for this stove. There were 2 pages about how to change the glass on the oven door, including diagrams. I'd also checked a generic youtube video on changing inner glass on oven doors too, although the hinges in the youtube demo weren't exactly like those in mine. I printed out the instructions, checked the oven door to make sure the hinges looked like those in the diagrams, set aside a couple of hours on a free day with no other distractions, and did the job. I just kept removing screws from the inside oven door, peeling back the layers of the onion, until I got to the innermost glass, which was cracked. Put the new glass in, put it back together. On youtube the guy said it would take 20 minutes. It took me about an hour. Saved a ton of money by doing it myself.

replaced it

I had to replace the clock /power panel on the stove. It did not come with a face oover. Both installations were fairly east once the problem was diagnosed. The control part did not show a face plate not included, or needed. I had to reorder the overlay . The job came out perfect and my stove looks like new again.

I cut the wires from the old igniter near where it said to. I then connected the new wires to the old ones, put it back on, the way I remembered it being assembled, but still won't heat up. I tried to get an enlarged detail of where I was working on, but I couldn't enlarge it from your website. My friend, who knows about electricity, worked on it for several hours last pm(He's an electrician), but could not figure it out with the scamatic that was on the range, because he was not there when I disassembled it,

took out the old (2 screws) put clip on wires and put the new part in. Simple

wonderful went perfect!!!

Unplugged the oven
Removed racks and bottom plate
Removed two 1/4" fasteners on ignitor
Installed new ignitor with two 1/4" fasteners
Cut each wire on old ignitor one at a time and hook up using included wire nuts
Plug in oven
Test oven
If it works, put it back together

followed the instructions that come with the part. very quick and easy.

could not determine what part failed.Found Part Select on line useing Bing search.Using virtual repairman and typing in the problem it told me what I needed.Orderd that part on line and reieved it in TWO DAYS,can you believe that! Inatalled that igniter in 15 mins. and now it works like new. Thank You Part Select!!!!!!

Replacing the faulty ignitor would have been simple enough if my arms were a foot longer and the bolts that secured the old ignitor had not been baked on.

With an ample dose of WD40 and some Vise Grips I finally got them broke loose. An Ohm meter can tell you pretty quickly if the old ignitor is bad. My old ignitor measured more than 1 mega ohm while the new ignitor read only about 346 ohms.

followed posted repair procedure on Parts select site. . . straight forward and simple. . .

I removed the oven bottom which was held by two large head long screws. I then removed the heat deflector using a small socket. The only difficult part was when I went to replace the igniter. The screws that were holding it in place stripped I guess do to the amount of heat they were continually subject too. I had to apply pressure to the igniter bracket while removing the screw using a small socket. Even with that they did not come out easily. If I had not had trouble removing the screws the repair probably would have taken 15 min.