79095711893 Kenmore Range - Instructions

I first lifted the top of the stove up where the burners are then removed 7 philips head screws plus the 2 screws that hold the latch in place, which is just above the oven door. I pulled the old latch off the rod that goes to the lock motor.I hen put the new latch in and replced all the screws. Turned the self-cleaning cycle on and it worked perfectly.Thanks to the help of repair guy at Parts Select and the pictures made the repair simple and fast. Thank You Patrs Select

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. The I reversed the process to install the new element which was exactly the same as the burned out one.
At first I was on the verge of replacing the whole stove before I decided to google " range heating elements". I ordered the part from your company and it arrived promptly.
Needless to say, I am thrilled that I don't have to buy a new stove. This one now works perfectly!

Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....

The repair went relatively easy especially after reading that another homeowner found the door to be "spring loaded". I was prepared and made sure I held onto things tightly.I removed the screws as I came to them and carefully removed the other 3 pieces of glass, finally reaching the inner panel. Putting that in and holding it as I put the next piece back was the most difficult. Once that was in place, the rest was just a matter of redoing what I undid. Needless to say, I was a bit nervous the first time I used the oven. No problems though, works like a charm! Thanks!

First of all I would like to comment on how it easy it was to place this order and I was pleasantly surprised that it was rec'd the next day. Also it was the correct part that I needed. To install it, first I removed the screws and then the metal that was holding the broken glass. Once the broken glass was removed, I set the new glass in the metal strips and basically screwed it back together. Please note to be careful to remember which screws go where as they are not the same size and do not fit anywhere but where they belong. That was the only part of the job that I had a problem with.

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

removed face screws from drawer. Previous poster described our problem exactly- middle screw on drawer pull had come loose and fallen down, which probably caused the pull to break in the first place, just as his had done. Replaced handle- very easy and like brand-new. Great site- easy to navigate and find the right parts, very fast shipping.

bought drip bowl from big box store and the 8 inch did not fit . yours fit perfect will use you for future diy jobs thank you

I just pulled the old ones out of the sockets, cleaned underneath, and replaced with new ones. No-brainer.

Husband very ill in bed. It's up to me!! Got a new bulb at HomeDepot and figured out how to get that wire 'thing' back in and the new glass cover installed. I DID IT!! WOW! My husband has always done these jobs around the house.......but now it's up to me.......and I'm not so dumb after all! I DID IT!! Now everyone who comes in the house.....I show them what I DID!! :-)

It went very well. Very quick. Just took out a couple of screws, took out the rest of the broken glass, slipped the new piece in and screwed it all back together. This was the first time I had ever tried to fix any part of a range/oven before, it was very simple...

I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.

Remove 8 #2 Phillips Tipped Machine Screws from exterior sides of oven door. Remove Shell/FrameClean. Clean any remaining glass/debris. Insert new glass into frame. Install frame onto oven door. Install screws.

Time saving tip. Clean all surfaces including interior glass beforehand for best and fastest results.

I used good old commom sense to disassemble and reassemble the frame, handle, internal glass,and inter panel to reach and repace the cracked glass. I must admit I had two machine screws left over during reassembly, but found a home. It is important to identify where each and every screw belongs. This will cut down your repair time. I thank PartSelect for providing great service and assisting me in my time of need.

Marv Dixon

Disconnect power supply,reemove upper back panel,pop otut old switch,disconnect it ,connect new switch ,snap in place ,screw uppper back panel back in place,reconnect range power supply.