79575194401 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

Took old part off and as I removed one hose I put that hose in the corresponding color hole. Then screwed the part on the refrigerator. Water was coming out of the water dispenser fast, but no ice. So I had to continue troubleshooting the ice maker.

I screwed the old one out and replaced it with the new one. A no-brainer. The thing that was so amazing was that I ordered the filter on the intrnet and it arrived the very next day!!! I was very surprised and pleased with the very quick shipping!!!

Unplugged the fridge. Used a screwdriver to loosen the switch. Easy to disconnect from fridge and just plugged the new switch in. Popped right back into the side of the fridge and worked perfectly.

Gave model number on website, found picture of icemaker section. Ordered part that came in 3 days and switched old for new

Removed the damaged tube and replaced the it with a new one.

I popped the old switch out of place and then disconnected the wire harness from the switch with a pair of needle nose pliers. I then inserted the harness into the new switch and popped the switch into place. Super easy and fast.

purchased a new switch. The old switch just needed to be lightly pried out with a screw driver, then it was simple to unplug the old, and plug in the new. Voila! Light !

slid screw driver under edge of switch, easy.

Uncoupled the old connector, replaced with new connector and attached supply line. Repair easy with right part, prior to ordering the right part I had tried a compression fitting and it still leaked. U-tube and others demonstrating repair assured me I was on the right path.

Removed the old, replaced with new. . . That easy.

Remove push plate for water/ice maker switch, remove 2 screws and 2 wires for switch. Replace with new.

replace piece

The part labeled as water tank was not pictured on web site, and when it arrived it was a large coil of plastic tubing wire-tied in an oval shape,not a blown p/e tank as original.The oval of tubing would not fit into the door compartment, because of the bulk of the actuating solenoid. No instructions were included. It was necessary to hacksaw the steel solenoid mounting bracket off the solenoid, then contort the solenoid into the compartment to get all parts inside the cover. new connectors had to be purchased, because the the tank/tubing coil was 1/4" od, while the original tank had 5/16"od connections.

I first took off a plastic trip strip which just popped off with a little pull. Then I pulled the gasket off slowly all around the perimeter of the door and snapped off the guide strip with the help of a screwdriver. I installed the gasket next first the guide strip then followed up with the pushing the gasket into the groove all around the door. Did the same procedure on the other door. The gaskets came very well packed and undamaged. It took approximately 2 weeks because one gasket was on back order. Thank you for your help with these parts. It would have cost me 3 times as much if the repairman performed this repair.

Tape off the light button so door alarm does not go off. Take off the clear light shield and remove the light bulbs. Be careful, bulbs may still be HOT!! With Phillips head screw driver unscrew the light plate assy. Drop it down in a comfortable position. Disconnect the connector, unscrew the thermal sensor and remove light assy. Install new light assy into light plate assy. There is no thermal senor in the new assy. Snap light plate assy back into place and install the two screws previously taken out. Install bulbs and clear cover. Remove tape from light door switches and you are done. Lights should go on and off when door buttons are pushed in and out.