79671417910 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

I replaced the thermistor, then the gas ignitor which were easy to get to once the drum was out. The gas is still not igniting so not sure where to go from here. Putting the drum belt back on took some muscle. But then I'm 71.

Removed the old damaged filter and replaced it a new one.

Unscrew the screw, remove old part, place in new part, replace screw and you are done.

First of all, I watched the videos provided by this site. I am not a professional appliance technician.

My dryer is mounted on top of my LG washer.
I ordered appliance moving leg pads. And I ordered a small but effective jack to raise up both units to insert pads under the feet.
Now I could slide the stacking unit away from the wall.

I set out my drill, Phillips head bits, pliers, a socket set, a small crescent wrench, and my phone with videos.
I also used a short ladder to get up to the top of the dryer.
Having the dryer mounted on top of the washer was actually perfect for working from the front of the dryer cabinet.
Watch out for very sharp edges. You can wear gloves. But I found gloves to be an impediment to feeling the parts.

My replacement parts:
1) four drum support rollers with shafts. I replaced the roller and shafts together. The new rollers would not fit on the old shafts.
2) drive belt
3) two moisture sensors. Located on the lint filter housing.

Here is how it went:

I spent six hours in one day to disassemble, vacuum, reinstall parts, and reassemble. My dryer is a steam unit, so the control panel electronics are on the right side rather than on the front panel as in the video I watched. In order to replace the drum rollers and their mounting shafts I just needed to pull the drum rear mounting bracket forward just enough to get the small crescent wrench on the nut behind the roller and my socket wrench on the top of the roller shaft. And off they came.

I tested the dryer with a load of damp bath towels. The motor ran but the drum did not turn. It was then that I realized that I had the drum drive belt on with the wrong side facing the drum. One side of the drive belt is smooth. And the opposite side has parallel grooves. The parallel grooves side needs to contact both the drum as well as the motor pulley. The grooves face away from the tensioner pulley.

So, the next day I spent 90 minutes partially disassembling the dryer enough to get to the drum belt once again. I pulled out the drum again to wrap the drive belt over it in the correct orientation. It is not easy to see the motor drive pulley or the belt tensioner pulley. I did it by feel and watching the videos again. I hooked up the drive belt mostly by feel this time. And I got it done. Now the drier runs very quietly. By the way. No need to remove anything on the back of the dryer.

Pretty satisfying overall.

Removed the old vent trap 3 screws total and replaced the new very quick and easy.

Completely had to dismantle the dryer to get to the igniter.
The screw holding the igniter is a SOB to get at for extraction, and even worse putting back.,

There’s all sorts of videos on it I watched. It was actually very simple

watched the video on line then did the repair, very easy to replace

Removed cover replaced bulb

An appliance repairman determined the problem which was that it needed new pulleys and thankfully PartSelect carried them. He installed them in an hour and my dryer runs fine now.

Viewed YouTube video form parts select to take dryer apart. Very easy to do if you just follow instructions in the video. Nothing too hard to do. Of note the 4 pack roller assembly is a whole unit, so you’ll have to replace the stem unit the old rollers use and not just replace the roller wheels like in the video. That is a different part number from LG. The front 2 are pretty straight forward to unbolt and replace. The back 2, especially one on the left is tighter clearance even with a wrench. If you’re able to pull whole dryer out and take back off, it’s an easier to get the one on the back left.
Also replaced belt just because i had it open, I replaced thermistor previously after getting a Te5 code about a year ago so that helped in taking it apart.
Would recommended doing it all since you’ll have it open.
Once replaced, everything ran again.

This was all pretty straightforward with the helpful video hosted on this site. The only issues I ran into was I had a seized screw that stripped and I had to drill it out and replace it. Also, I had to disassemble the front and rear a little bit further than what is shown in order to install the new roller axles. I was pleasantly surprised that I did not have to worry about the triangular retainers, because the replacement rollers/axles use an improved metal retaining pin. Overall, I'm very happy and the dryer is nearly silent now. It was a bit of a challenge but I took my time and gave myself breaks throughout the morning rather than banging my head against the wall.

FIRST REMOVED THE LID ON TOP OF DRYER.THEN THE CONTROL PANEL AND THE STEAM TRAY. HAVE TO UNCLIP TWO HARNEST CONNECTORS. REMOVED THE FACE PLATE THAT HOLDS THE DRYER WALLS TOGETHER ALSO REMOVE TO SENSOR HARNESS CLIPS. .REMOVED THE BELT FROM MOTOR. TOOK DRUM OUT . UNCLIPPED MOTOR COLLAR SNAP CLIPS DISCONNECT THE MOTOR HARNESS. INSTALL NE MOTOR AND CONNECT HARNESS INSTALL CLIP . REINSTALL DRUM AND PUT BELT ON. CONNECT HANESSES AND INSTALL FACE PLATE. INSTALL CONTROL PANEL AND THE TOP LID.

The installation of the gas orifice was actually simple. Unscrew the old orifice and screw in the correct orifice. Tricky part of the process was accessing the area of the gas valve.

Followed video provided on site